When my car is at idle or cruising the AC works well. When I'm driving normally from stop light to stop light the AC gets warm.
I did have the pressures checked and they topped off the refrigerant. They also said the compressor is working well. I had all this checked before it started getting warm during accelerating.
Are there some things that I can look at?
Mmkay.. 2000 GTI VR6.. Will start initially, when engine is cold (sat overnight, or through the work day) but once the engine is at normal running temp, if you shut it off, it wont start. Acts like its out of gas.. have to "prime" and keep hitting the gas pedal while cranking, to (sometimes) get it to start when warm, and then it runs like crap until I get a few miles down the road.
Brand new plugs and wires, and just this evening, pulled a plug, and its obviously fouled, and covered with unburnt gas. Coil Pack maybe?
I swapped transmissions in an 01 vr6 glx automatic car. The car will start and run perfectly until it reaches operating temperature. Once it hits 190 f it shuts down and will only start again if u wait a few minutes. It has me stumped. I have unpluged the coolant temp sensor, and Have checked for vacuum leaks and loose connections but no luck.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
View 4 RepliesLow ac line is cold
Fans kick on
Compressor clutch kicks on and spins with pulley till I turn ac button off
Added r134
Changed pressure switch
Changed ambient temp sensor
Car is just manual ac control and car blows at 80 degrees.what else could it be?cars 02 gti 1.8t
Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
View 4 RepliesSo i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
View 2 RepliesI have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
View 4 RepliesMy AC is not working. I just tried to put in some freon and it did nothing for me. Hopefully this doesn't make matters worse, I'm finding that it may have..
From what I can tell everything is working fine except the pipes at the firewall that go to the evaporator stay warm and don't cool at all after ten minutes.
The clutch is engaging when the AC button is pressed and stays on fine.
I found this thread : [URL] .....
about the blend door, that could be it haven't checked yet but does it suggest that the condenser isn't working since the pipes don't get cold?
So, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
[URL]
I have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
My car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
I have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
I have a 2003 Jetta Gli , 24v vr6 with a 6 speed transmission.
Well this all started last night, started to drive, when accelerating , around 3k RPM I start to hear a rattle or grind. This only happens around 3k while accelerating. Once letting off the gas or pushing the clutch in, it goes away. Sometimes after 3k it'll go away.
I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
Mk4 Golf City*, 2008, gas, manual, sunroof. Canadian budget-model.
Mysterious noise like WOMMMMM, WOMMMM itinerantly: Noise is only when air conditioning is on and the engine is warm. I can feel vibrations in the brake pedal. *You can't hear the noise under the hood*. It is quite loud in the cab, though, definitely coming from under the dashboard.
I have stuck my nose in. I removed the glove box and listened to the blower motor, it seemed to be coming from further toward the driver's side. It will be like wmmmmOMMMMM WOMMMMM pause WOMMMM like something is vibrating too close to something else and the friction causes it to go back to where it was.
I hit a speed bump going a bit fast. I broke the small cooling fan somehow so it was just loose hanging on its hub. I had that repaired but the noise hasn't gone away. It seems to be getting more frequent but so far there isn't any indication of the car suffering. This is the second summer it has made the noise.It haunts my sleep.
I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesClunking happening when accelerating and braking, but is not noticeable if I shift without too much kick between 1st and 2nd. Clunking is heard right under my feet and sounds like its dead center in the car. Some slight metal scraping sound can be heard like a bolt is loose (none found).
Replaced: Tie rod assembly, both axles, doggone mount, struts, strut mounts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.