So recently (yesterday and today) when driving I've noticed that my ABS and traction control lights come on along with the usual CEL for a bad 02 sensor, what could be causing these to come on, the part that throws me off is that it only happens when it is wet outside or if I run through a puddle...
View 14 RepliesI put in a new air filter today, 2003 GTI vr6 24v, and three lights (Check Engine Light, Electronic Control Power, and ABS) all turned on and haven't turned off yet, I'm not sure if I plugged in the sensor wrong or if there is something else that needs to be done. None of the lights were on before.
View 4 RepliesMy car sat for 2 days this week and was completely dead when I got back. I had the alternator and battery tested and they were both fine. I put everything back and ran a vag-com and it still shows running voltage at 9.7 volts. ABS and traction control lights are on intermittently. It seems to be having trouble starting which leads me to believe it's a bad starter but I don't know how that would drain my battery. The car also has a sunroof drain leak which got water on the monsoon amp. I've tried with and without the amp connected. No difference.
View 24 RepliesJust put new wheels, tires on my car...19's with tires 235/35/19, soon as i put them on and took it out to see any issues, the driver side rear wheel/tire making some horrible squeaking noise that just kept getting worse as i just drove the car around the block..ABS light and traction control both came on and stayed on as well (doesn't sound good, expensive) my H20 is ruined it seems.
View 1 RepliesI know this has been covered. but when i searched it was all mechanical failure.
My abs/traction lights come on together whenever it snows, and i lose both abs and traction control. But in the warm weather it is fine. it ocassionally happens when it rains (but a lot less often)
I was pulling out of school the other day and my abs light came on and so did the traction control light, noting was going on at all. I was driving in a straight line. Everything works perfect i have no issues just lights, about 2 months ago. I did coilovers rotors and pad all the way around and a new abs sensor on the drivers side because i smashed it when installing the coilovers. I need to get it fixed because I cant pass inspection with the lights on and I am curious to find out if something is actually wrong with it. My uncle drove it and said it makes a noise when you turn and he thinks possibly the cv joint is bad on the axles? He said because of the excess strain from the drop.
View 19 RepliesFrom what I've read it seems this combo of lights usually stops the awd from working. However the lights came on and as a test I did a few hard 1-3 pulls listening for wheel spin... Nothing, all traction and pull.
What may be causing these lights? Hopefully I can get my vag com to work so I can scan it. Planning on checking the fuses and connections on the battery too.
My car's front bumper got ripped off this week , parking spots on the grass pulled it off) Ever since then, I've been having weird ass issues. After it happened, I zip tied it back together and started to go to town when my car kicked itself into EPC mode, but only when I went on the throttle. If I let off, the EPC light would go off, but the traction control light would stay on (ESP light, whatever). I killed it and realigned the throttle body (I think that's what it is. Where you hold the brake and throttle in for about 30-60 seconds while the key is on but not started then kill it and restart it) and after I did that, it will start and only stay alive for half a second then die. It's started to make a god-awful crackling noise as well in the engine compartment near the Alternator.
[URL]....
I was driving my car and forgot to turn esp off, hit boost in 2nd gear and the traction control did it's thing. didn't notice anything while driving so I didn't think anything of it. once I got home to back into my driveway, I noticed that when I turn the wheel sharply (at a standstill or very low speed) there's a clunking coming from what seems like the passenger front. I'm hoping it's not the inner cv. What it could be? I know for a fact it started right after the traction control kicked on so that's what caused it.
View 8 RepliesJust replaced one outer tie rod end on my 2003 GLI yesterday. (ran out of daylight to do other side, now have another problem)...
Everything came apart and went back together fine with really no fighting. Got the alignment close, but will still need one done once I finish up.
Anyways, I am wondering what I possibly could have screwed up, because after a few miles of driving the traction control light (circle with triangle in the middle) came on and now won't go away. I didn't screw with any wires while I was in there. Pretty straight forward job, so I thought. I don't have a VAGCOM but there's no engine codes stored.
I have a 202 Jetta 1.8T GLS. Sometimes the traction control light comes on and the car jumps like it cant figure out what gear to go in. It gets very interesting to drive when it does this as I am sure you can imagine. Only other light that is on is the engine control light which is on all the time. Car seems to run fine until this happens. If I pull over and shut the car off it seems fine when I start it up again and continues to run fine and all of a sudden it happens again. I do have a code p2637 Torque Management feedback signal "A".
View 1 RepliesI just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
View 3 Replies2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
I have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?
I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
as the title indicates i had the pleasure () of changing out my leaking power steering rack - all seamed to go well but right after that i am now getting a constent traction control warning light on my dash - what should i check ?
View 3 RepliesEvertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesRecently I started to have my EPC and Traction Control Lights come on once in a while (no CEL). And when that happens, it looks like my Passat is going into limp mode, because it drives, but it hardly has any power.
VagCom confirmed that the problem was coming from Throttle Body (I don't remember the exact code), I replaced the throttle body, did Throttle Body Adaptation, but I still have the same problem.
Here is the most recent VagCom screenshot:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 03H 906 032 C HW: Hardware No
Component and/or Version: P 3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 8030
Software Coding: 0000075
Work Shop Code: WSC 00028 028 00001
1 Fault Found:
000290 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low
[Code] .....
So, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
View 15 RepliesNew problem this evening went to start Santa fe and ABS and Traction Control lights are on tried to shut ignition off and restart and both remain on. Drove the vehicle and noticed no brake control problems, tried to push the traction control switch and no on off control of light remains on. I believe in a situation such as this a good computer diagnose at the dealer is in order.
View 9 Replies