Golf IV / Jetta IV :: A/C Malfunction - Blows Cold And Warm Air
Apr 4, 2015
So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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Low ac line is cold
Fans kick on
Compressor clutch kicks on and spins with pulley till I turn ac button off
Added r134
Changed pressure switch
Changed ambient temp sensor
Car is just manual ac control and car blows at 80 degrees.what else could it be?cars 02 gti 1.8t
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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I have a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) that has an intermittent operating A/C unit. The blower will always work, however the cold A/C only operates intermittently, but the unit will continue to blow warm air half the time and cold air the other half of the time while in the cold mode.
I read that there is a relay fuse in the 5th Generation Camry, which sounds like my problem, however, I am not able to locate such a fuse in the 6th Gen Camry.
Could it be a relay fuse? Any other culprits? I would like to see if this is a problem that I can fix.
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
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When I turn on the air conditioning, the driver's side works well, but the passenger's side vents blow warm air. What could this mean and could I fix it from home?
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Why my air-conditioning only blows cold on the passenger side on the driver's side It barley bows cold most of the time it is warm.
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Why my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
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On occasion the heat on my mk6 golf will start to blow cold when turned to the max click. Turning it back one click will cause it to start to blow hot again.
Friend at the dealer said he thought there was a software update for the hvac controls ....
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2015 GTI autobahn w/pp. Couple of days ago i started to notice that the driver side air vents only blows out cold air even when the car is warmed up.
So I decided to try turning up the temp to hi for both sides, and i notice passenger side is blowing hot air like it supposed to while driver side is not. (this happens with and w/o AC).
This happens maybe 2/3 times i start the car, so I looked up online and seem to only find people complaint about air staying hot when temp set to low w/o AC....
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I have a 02 gti 1.8t and my a/c stopped blowing cold out of nowhere. I added r134 and it didn't make a difference. Changed the switch near the firewall in the engine bay and it still did nothing. Compressor clutch kicks on when a/c button is pressed. Could it be I have a leak?car has 147k on it.
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