Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 4th Cylinder Occasionally Misfire If Release The Clutch At Too High Of A Rev
Jun 3, 2016
MkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
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I drive a 24v vr6 GTI in 6-speed I was coming home and as I turned and got on the gas a little and all of a sudden there was a pop and my car couldn't go in gear when I release the clutch. Luckily I was close to home and basically cruised in neutral. I jacked it up and found that my axle is twisted. Now I was aware the boots were torn before so I'm assuming the axle got screwed up but my other concern is, why won't my car go in gear? Here's the photo of inner CV. I'm hoping it's just an axle and not the clutch.
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I have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
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Getting misfires on cylinder 1 and 5 in my 2001 Jetta GLX. Replaced coil pack. Installed a different/used cam position sensor.
Swapped injector 1 and 5 with 2 and 6. Cleaned MAF and throttle body and did adaptation. Checked resistance of plug wires and swapped plug positions.
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Alright Ive had a misfire on cylinder 1 for far too long. I've replaced all ignition coils and plugs with oem parts. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with oem. As well as 2 injectors. Before I would misfire under load, now I misfire at idle..wiring looks good and not cracked from what I can see. Only codes I reciece are random multiple misfire, misfire cylinder 1. And diverter valve mis function because of my BOV. So what do I do now vortex?
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New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
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So I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
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2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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Alright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
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I recently changed my spark plugs + coil packs in my 01 1.8T because it read a couple cylinder misfire codes. Drove it for a few days out of curiosity plugged the code reader in again and it's still reading misfire codes. What could the issue be still?
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
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About a month ago my wife's 2000 Jetta with the VR6 engine in it started acting up and throwing codes. The codes it threw were for random misfire, misfire in cylinder 2, and misfire in cylinder 5. Starting out, we changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and made sure the injectors were clean.
The problem didn't go away so we water tested the coil and wires, but they passed that test. The wires were quite old and out of spec, while the coil was in-spec across all terminals, according to the vehicle service manual, so we installed some new OEM leads this weekend. While installing the leads we noticed a disconnected vacuum line and reconnected that as well.
The vehicle was driving great for two and a half days, then today while I was sitting at a stop light, it started missing really badly and felt like it was going to kill. It did this for about 5 seconds, then recovered and ran smooth for about 5 seconds, before getting really rough until I started driving when the light changed. It didn't do it when I drove it a few hours later at all. This episode didn't throw any codes either.
What could be causing this issue? Would the MAF cause the intermittent missing, or is it possible that the computer is going bad?
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After getting some misfire and hesitation (code reading says misfire on cylinder 3), it looks like I'll be doing my first spark plug change on my 24V VR6. I've ordered all of the plugs, and have made sure that I'v got all my tools on hand. Hopefully, the DIY's I've found on Vortex will be as useful as they look .
My car has 163K on the clock, and spark plug change has been on my short list of to-do items, as I'm not sure of the maintenance history of the car. Hopefully, the spark plugs will do the trick, but coil packs will be done soon too.
Would it be OK to change just the coilpack on cylinder 3 and leave the others alone if they are all working OK? Or just shell out the cash to change all six at once?
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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I own a BMW not a VW! My 19yr old daughter purchased her first car a few months ago, an '03 Jetta 2.0L with approx. 170,xxx miles. Just after she got it we pulled a P0420 code, but it ran fine so we haven't worried too much about it. I've cleared that code and after about 2 weeks it will come back. Last week it started to have some issues with rough idle, stumbling/hesitation. I pulled the codes yesterday an in addition to the catalytic code is a cylinder #3 misfire P0303. I thinking the 2 codes are not related. I'm assuming the typical things to look for on the misfire are coil, wire, plug? Looks like the coil on this engine is a combined unit so no switching coil packs to see if the miss follows a bad coil pack.
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I have a 1999.5 Jetta VR6 12v, last week the car would not start. After some tests I determined the coil pack had gone bad. Replaced the Coil with a brand New aftermarket German made coil. Now 1 week later, driving at highway speed CEL came on, started to flash and obviously misfiring again. Ran Codes and now im getting these DTC's:
1)random multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300
2) cylinder 4 misfire detected p0304
3) ignition coil output 3 electric malfunction p1395
4) cylinder 3 misfire detected p0303
has this new coil gone bad already after a week?
New issue?
Plugs were replaced less than a year ago, wires were apparently replaced by previous owner about 2 years ago now. Crank sensor replaced less than a week ago...
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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She is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
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