Just put transmission back in car after getting 3/4 gear synchros replaced and tdi 5th gear installed. I adjusted the shift linkage multiple times and did the procedure 100% correct. Now, all gears work except for 3rd. I can't get into 3rd at all whether shifting with cables installed or just freely from tower.
View 4 RepliesMy03 GLI will not engage first or second gear.
This morning, i was having some issues getting the car in reverse, but it eventually engaged and is fine now. I drove to the barbershop, and on the way home, the shifter stopped engaging 1st or 2nd gear. it moves freely into position (TOO FREELY) and all other gears will engage. common sense tells me that the clutch is fine and the problem is with the shifter.
My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesDriving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesSo I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
View 18 RepliesI have been reluctant to post another clunking thread because it's nearly impossible to accurately describe what is happening. But I have reached by breaking point and I wanted a few opinions before I take it into the dealer. I am still under powertrain warranty, but I want to be confident I am not wasting mine and the dealers time if I am just missing something easy. I also know dealers don't always take clunks seriously so I want to pinpoint it first.
Symptoms : Car has 50k miles. I am the original owner.
From a stop, when getting the car rolling moderately aggressively there is a clunk/pop noise from the car. I can slightly feel it in the pedals and it is fairly loud. Almost like a distant hammer and nail pounding. It's a single clunk, with sometimes a double "pop pop". It's noticeable even with the radio turned up a little. If you are smooth on the throttle it doesn't make the noise. It seems random, like something is hitting something which only happens under certain weight shifts.
It sounds like it's from the rear and the front. It seems to switch. But honestly I am not confident either way. Where it is. It is silent on turns, bumps, speed bumps, driveway, etc. I don't think it's the suspension. It is not a clicking/tapping, only a single clunk or knock.
It also happens in 1st/2nd in stop and go traffic. If you leave it in 1st and the traffic is moving from say 8-15mph where you don't need to use the clutch it will clunk during on/off throttle. Anything above ~30mph I haven't been able to replicate the noise with on/off throttle.
It also does it if I downshift when coming to a stop and don't rev match. Say you are slowing down and you go from 4th, 3rd, then 2nd, let the clutch out and it rev matches up to ~3,000rpm which causes the weight to shift forward....clunk! It is not easy to replicate which is another reason I am slow to bring it to the dealer until I pinpoint it.
Things I have tried:
- Subframe bolt torque check. Installed ECS spacer/bolt kit anyway.
- Sway bar links are tight, or at least they didn't budge at all.
- Adjusted the rear hatch a million different ways as it was making a similar noise earlier.
- Spare tire tightened, tools removed
- Rear seats up/down/mix/seat belts fastened, etc.
I was only able to locate one motor mount? Where they are. Seems fine. Dogbone seems fine, again hard to tell.
Suspect:
I have VWR springs, but I am 90% sure this started happening right before I had them installed. I did the rears myself, a well known shop did the front. I noticed the noise maybe 2k before the springs were installed.
Clutch linkage somewhere - I had issues with my transmission (early build). The clutch was replaced at 7k. I've always had a very loud flywheel and a grinding feeling in the pedal. Maybe the shifter linkage is hitting something? I have little experience with VW's so I am still learning and don't know what to check.
My rear harmonic balancer is cracking like everyone else. I have no vibrations yet and I don't see how it could be causing a clunk in the current state. Maybe a motor mount is bad that I cant see? It feels like something is loose in the drivetrain.
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
Got a weird issue that I've never encountered before. I tried searching but you can't search for just "A/C", so the search was pretty generic and I couldn't find anything similar to my issue.
Hot or cold, doesn't matter. When I turn the A/C on the clutch try's to engage and slowly starts to spin with the pulley until until it finally engages then the a/c will blow out cold air just fine. Also noticed a burning smell coming from it.
01 Jetta 2.0
Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
Yesterday my 2003 VW Golf TDI turn signals stopped working. The hazard/emergency lights do work. Also, when I push the signal lever forward the brights don't engage. Does this sound like a bad relay or blown fuse?
View 6 RepliesOk here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
I'm most likely picking up a 03 jetta glx vr6. Thing is the 6th gear is out. Is the entire transmission about to break or is it a common thing?
View 16 RepliesLLast night I was driving. I got off the highway and pulling on to the main road in 2nd, I ripped on it and went into 3rd quickly. It basically kicked it out of gear, and didn't seem like I had any other gear besides 1st or 2nd. Got to a local gas station in 2nd, and I originally thought my linkage had come off. While trying to back into a spot to make life easier, there was no reverse. seems like the trans is binding up. Aligned the linkage anyway, when the car is off, it goes into every gear, but when it is on, it feels like 1st-2nd-nothing. If I roll the car backwards and then forward, I have 1st. Other than that, it will not engage. If I put the trans in reverse and then try to back up, it feels like the trans is binding. Same with 1st, unless the car is running. Traction control light will not turn off either, will have it scanned this week to determine that issue...
Ive seen most people have issues with the 1st-2nd shift fork and have this causing the reverse issues.
2005 GLI 1.8t
The car was starting to have issues going into gear after a night of cruising. Then I was experiencing what I am thinking was clutch creep. The clutch would be down and in gear and the car wanted to slowly roll.
What I have done to try and fix it:
I have bled the system many times to get all the air out(i believe), and also readjusted the the linkage. NOW, the car will not go into gear when it is on but will when it is off. I have the car on stands at the moment and it will shift through all the gears when the car is on just the wheels spin since it is in the air.
The clutch/flywheel/pp/throw out bearing all have less then 2k miles on them. Tranny fluid has been replaced with Penzoil syncomesh. I have yet to ever do a hard launch.
Clutchmasters Fx400, OEM DMFW.
Car is an 02m trans w/o the black cap in the side so I cannot do the washer/gasket mod for clutch creep. Believe I have to order NLS shim kit and put behind the throw out bearing.
Over the past couple weeks sometimes when i turn my car on it wont rev above 3100 rpm in any gear. The car is a 5-speed jetta 8v 2.0 and I'm just looking for any insight as to what is causing this problem. My check engine light is on and i had the codes read and there was a bunch, "catalyst system below threshold bank 1", " ignition coil A,B,C,D circuit primary/secondary malfunction", and "camshaft position sensor "A" circuit high input". I'm not sure if these codes are related to the problem but i had to have the whole top end of my engine rebuilt not even a year ago and all of the ignition coils and sparkplugs were replaced during that time.
This problem does not occur every time i turn the car on however, i did notice that sometimes when i go to turn the car on instead of the car starting in quickly, it will start hard after sever cranks and this is usually when i have this issue. it is very weird almost like there is a rev limiter on and i can usually fix the problem if i get up to highway speeds and downshift hard into 3rd and the car will shudder once or twice and will drive like normal again. What could be wrong i was thinking it might be a bad O2 sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere.
Just to clarify what i mean by it wont rev past 3100 rpm i mean that i can start from idle and accelerate normally and when it gets to 3100 rpm the power goes away and will just stay there even i put my foot all the way down. I can shift up and the same thing will happen i will accelerate normally but then once i reach 3100 rpm again it will stay there.
Have a 20th with the 02m six speed ... Car won't go into any gear, except reverse ... Tried with the car off or on, clutch in and out with no luck ...
I took off the linkage from the engine bay and can only manually get the car to go into reverse ... Feels like it can't change "levels" ... Don't think it's clutch since because the car won't engage a gear even with the car off ...
Tried searching and no luck ... Thinking shift forks but hoping not since don't want to drop the transmission and it could be something else ...
I bought my first vw about a month ago. It's a 2003 GTI 1.8t with what I THOUGHT had a 6 speed transmission in it when I bought it. I hate to admit it, but when I test drove it, I never had a chance to put it into 6th gear.
Anyways, I replaced the shift lever, and shift cable (bad Bushings on cable and you can't just buy the Bushings) because it was hard to get it onto 1st gear without pulling the boot up, and pushing that metal part down. (I don't know the actual part name). Anyways it shifts great now that I have the cables adjusted however it will not go into sixth no matter what I do.
This leads me to think that maybe someone put a 6 speed knob on a 5 speed lever. However, the wear on the knob is exactly the same as the wear on the steering wheel. The guy at the local dealership told me he sold me parts for a 5 speed shifter box and that the 6 speed linkage is completely different and I 100% have the 5 speed trans.
The issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
View 2 RepliesI'm just having a mis-alignment for my gearing reverse is replaced as first and I have no second gear not reverse only 1-3-4-5 gears are being entered what can I do to fix this...
View 2 Replies