Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2013 - Bucking / Hesitation At Low RPM And 5% Throttle
Jun 10, 2016
I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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What are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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Have any other PP 6MT owners experienced strange throttle hesitation while shifting with a APR 1.2 HO tune? I know what turbo lag feels like, but it is almost as if the throttle position is not being read for 1-2 seconds after shifting.
No matter how hard/fast I shift, I can't get the tires to chirp, even shifting at high RPM. When I watch my speedo after shifting, the needle does not move at all until the delay ends, and of course it moves fast when the boost builds. But for 1-1.5 seconds after shifting, with the pedal to the floor, I would expect some acceleration, even not at full boost.
Even when not shifting, and going from no throttle to medium/full throttle, there is a delay with no acceleration and no significant noise/rev build.
I don't remember this being as pronounced before I was tuned. Also, I had GFB DV+ installed about the same time, but I would expect the DV+ to make this better, not worse.
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I finally decided to take my car in to the dealership for this random split second hesitation that mostly happens in first gear. I have 8600 miles on the car and it has done it since the day I bought it. I thought it might have been compressor related from running the AC. I have tried driving with no AC and ESP off and it still does it.
So I take it in and they decided to let the new guy work on my car. I take him on a ride (AC and ESP off) and sure enough it does it nice and strong for him to feel it. I was happy so we went back to the dealership and they gave me a 2.slow rental and I was on my way. 24 hours later they call and tell me, "Ron we believe it might be your throttle body so we're waiting on the regional master tech to get his opinion before we put a $750 part on your car".
I'm like "ok, whatever you say, just call me tomorrow with an update because I don't want it back till it's fixed". They call me the next day to inform me that my brake light switch was faulty ($10.25), they replaced my wiper blades, adjusted my wiper arms and the car was ready to be picked up.
Now that I have it back I can say driving it now that it's acting normal is an adjustment. My mind expect that hiccup but it doesn't happen, at least not most of the time. I'm not completely convinced that this hesitation is gone because I think I felt it happen once yesterday. Time will tell... In the mean time it is 95% cured.
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I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
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I have a 2011 GTI which has about 46k miles on it. The car is stock other than some VagCom stuff. Over the last few months I have noticed a worsening problem which is getting bad enough to start being annoying. Under very light throttle such as cruising along or rolling off the throttle to shift, the car has a slight miss, almost like it's surging. It happens in any gear, typically around 1500 - 2200 rpm, and I first noticed it actually on the highway using cruise. It seems to happen most before the car gets nice and warm. It has not thrown a CEL, but I have scanned it and found some misfire codes, although I believe those to be from a really rough cold start which sporadically happens maybe once every six months (last time a couple weeks ago).
I have it booked into the dealer but I can't get there for a couple weeks. I don't think it's coil or injector related because it runs fine under high load and high rpm. Fuel filter has maybe 2500 miles on it, always use Shell 91. I really think it's probably carbon buildup but I am hoping the dealer doesn't just give it the old "cannot replicate" since the car is not triggering a CIL yet. It's pretty obvious when you drive it though that something is off. If they play that game I'll probably just go ahead and do it myself.
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Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
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I don't put many miles on my car, so even though I'm going on 2 years my 2010 GTI (6 speed manual) only has 11k miles on it. Over the last few months I have notice that when starting out in first gear on a hill, as I let the clutch out I will sometimes (not always) hear a squealing noise that isn't insanely loud but definitely noticeable and sounds like a cross between chewbacca and an elephant. It goes away once the clutch is fully let out and I start moving. Over the last couple days I've noticed a hesitation in the throttle occasionally, as if the power is just dying. But, the rpms don't suddenly rev up when this happens (as I would expect if the clutch were slipping). It just feels like the power is dying and hitting the gas has no effect -- the car just slows down. Happened today in 4th gear going about 45 mph -- car just started to slow. 5-10 seconds later it recovered.
Could this all be due to my clutch? If so, can it be adjusted or does it require a new clutch? It's under warranty. Problem is it's intermittent and I just know I'll drive all the way out to the dealer and it won't do it on command. I am APR stage 1. But I don't drive hard at all.
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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My GTI is the first FWD car I've had since 1985, so the issue that I'm having may be just me adapting to a front drive platform. Here's what's happening: when I nail the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, on or about 4K rpm or above, the car feels as if it's hesitating slightly as the revs climb.
It accelerates fiercely (I have the JB1, and I had the Neuspeed Power Module before it, and it's reacted the same way with each mod), and it's almost as if the front end of the car is lifting and struggling for traction (although the traction control light doesn't come on).
Is what I'm experiencing normal FWD behavior? Is it the beginning of torque steer? I only notice this at full throttle--not noticeable at all at partial throttle. Also, it doesn't happen consistently. My car is a performance package manual.
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
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