I am having a no start issue with my 2008 golf city( it is a mk4 with a facelift) i have already replaced the ignition switch but the car still will not crank. it starts up easy if i get it rolling and pop the clutch but i cannot get it to crank. when the problem first happened the car cranked what seemed like halfway then stopped and now will not crank at all.
View 2 RepliesI own 2013 Mk6 GTI. I am having to over crank the engine for a period of 8 seconds or so before the car starts, especially after it has been sitting for a few hours. My thought was a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I have heard that our fuel filter has a built in pressure regulator that may get stuck open for whatever reason and that may also cause a long crank time.
View 9 Replies04 Gli 1.8t 6 speed. When I go to start my car and turn the key nothing happens . No clicking no cranking nothing. All my lights work radio works everything. Would a bad starter cause this? I can jump my car and it works fine.
View 7 RepliesI am having trouble with my car not starting, when turning the key nothing happens. I have replaced the battery and have even tried to push the car and do a rolling start could not get it going. I am assuming that if i can't do a rolling start that rules out the starter, is that correct? I also verified all fuses and changed the fuel pump relay.
I am leaning towards an electrical problem (ground/short circuit). I have a Bentley manual and VCDS tool, how to diagnose the electrical problem and pinpoint the issue.
So I have a no crank no start. All other electrics appear to be working . For the most part I just hear a soft click when I try and start. Doesn't sound like your normal solenoid clicking. New starter, 12v at battery , new ignition switch. It did this to me last month , started taking the ignition out then just only started before I could even get the new part in.
Changed it anyway. Seem to fix it. My next step is going to be to check the ground under the battery. Which I checked and cleaned up a little bit about eight months ago. After that I'll try and jump the starter and check the voltage going to the solenoid. I check the fuses last month when it did it to me and they all seem to be okay.
My car has been sitting for three days and I went to start it and it turns over but doesn't even try to fire. If i press the gas while it's turning over, it doesn't change at all. Do any of you know what could be causing that?
yes I searched and it turned back nothing, so if there is already a thread, could you point me in that direction?
Also, the car previously had a tick on start up for about 30 seconds and then it would disappear, that doesn't seem related to the no cranking thing to me though. The only other strange thing that happened was a week ago when the car dumped an unusual amount of smoke as if it blew a head gasket... but it didn't, and nothing has happened since then until now.
The car used to do frequent trips of 15 or 20 miles at a time every day but now it does 5 or 6 miles every few days and then 300 miles at 80mph each way once a month, so I don't know if the constant 3800 rpms on the long trips could be having some sort of affecting this
2000 Golf GTi 1.8t
Key fob has not worked for awhile so I use the physical key to lock and unlock the door. I locked the doors when I went to the movies last night come out and unlocked the doors as I always do, Get in and start my car and the alarm starts going off.
So of course I have a little freak out moment after about 30 seconds it went off. So I turn the car off and start it again same thing happened. I say screw it and drive it and the alarm shuts off once more.
I did notice when I got home and turned the car off the red light by the drivers side door lock knob was blinking.
I have looked all over the place and everything that I read says the car won't start. My car starts and drives just fine it's just when I first start it the alarm goes off for about 30-45 seconds.
So i had my starter crap out on me the other day, it destroyed its self in good fashion. So i replaced it thinking that was going to be the only problem, but once i replaced the starter it STILL wouldn't start. the starter spins, but doesn't engage the flywheel. I can start the car with a bump start no problem...
Things I have done:
- Replaced the battery - 660CCA AcDelco
- Replaced the Ground wires, and positive, with new 1 gauge wire, and cleaned the connections.
- Replaced the starter A new one from acdelco, and a Used one (that was in working order)
Getting 13-13.5 volts while running.
Signal wire is fine, as I've tested the starter by completely bypassing it and just jumping straight from the Batter, still the same situation.
My only thought has been.. is it feasible that the starter may have destroyed a couple of teeth on the flywheel.... so when i goto engage the starter it might go for a quarter revolution and then find the location with the missing teeth and just spin ?
Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
View 3 RepliesSo i got a 2002 gti 1.8t awp . Wont start unless I crank it about 2-4 times. Also noticed a bit of a grinding/high pitched noise when cranking. when the car starts up it idles perfect, doesn't die , drives perfect etc...
Eventually i got the car scanned. & got 2 codes.
P0341 : Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance B1
&
P0230 : Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
So I went and bought a Fuel pump , Camshaft position sensor & Even a new starter. Nothing fixed it. & the problem still occurs..
Heres a video of me trying to crank it ; [URL] .....
I have a 2003 vw golf gti. and It will crank but it wont start. I recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay.
There is no voltage at fuse 28 so I jumped the relay ( using both big pins ) and still no voltage at the fuse. however when its jumped the fuel pump actually runs. Still nothing
I am beginning to think it may be a spark issue but the fuel pump doesn't make a noise unless the relay is jumped.
Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.
Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.
Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.
02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.
- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.
What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.
Have a mk4 GTi vr6 with long beaches with sit at an offset of 38. Honestly the offset thing confuses me quite a bit. I'm running 235/17/45 tires. I had my car lowered before the winter and I can only go so low before it starts rubbing. What size spacers i should go with to basically go as low as possible. If not as low as possible, I love a wide rear end so maybe poking in the rear end and lowered in the front for like a rake effect.
View 5 RepliesI own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
I have some sort of electrical/wiring issue with my 2005 GTI Auto transmission. Ever since I've owned the car every now and then, it won't start at all; the clock will reset and so will the trip meter. When this happens, it makes a weird buzzing sound while I'm turning the key, and after I let off, the turn signal will click until I pull the key out. I usually have success starting it after playing with the buttons on the turn signal. All fuses are good, and the battery is always charged, because the stereo and lights will work fine. I'm assuming it's either a short or a problem with the turn signal relay...
View 1 RepliesOK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
I've been having 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. It has an automatic transmission and lately I've noticed that when I put it into Drive, it starts out in 3rd gear. In other words I've lost 1st and 2nd gear when put in Drive. When I manually put it in 1st gear with the shifter, I have 1st gear and all the way up to Drive. The issue just seems to be while in Drive (D)
I've tried the Automatic Transmission Reset :
[URL]...................
Perhaps I'm not doing it right as I can't seem to see any switch under the Gas pedal, just a round piece of plastic that protrudes an inch. I've even removed that and still see no switch.
It will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
View 2 Replies