Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2006 - Misfire Between 1200 - 1800 Rpm
Oct 14, 2014
Vehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
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I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
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After about a 45 minute drive yesterday the EPC light came on, idle went up to 1200 rpm's and when I turned off the car it wouldn't turn on, just leaving the ignition for about 5-7 seconds is when the car finally started.
Today, again after a 45 minute drive the EPC light came on again, same symptoms, except that the car stalled and I had to turn the ignition again about 5-7 seconds for it to start. No other light is on, and the car would start fine after about half an hour rest with no EPC light.
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Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
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I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
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I started this string over a year ago (see below). My car continues to suffer the same problem. It now has 62,000 miles on it. I finally decided to take it to the dealership seeing as my local mechanic and 2 VW specialists could not figure out what is wrong - 2 new sets of coils, 2 news sets of spark plugs, and several expensive diagnostic tests that reveal nothing later. The dealership also has no clear idea what is wrong with the car and VW itself has not been useful either (rather useless really). No service bulletins have been posted for my car. I have tried several additives (Techron, Sea Foam) but that did not yield any results. The one thing I have noticed is that the misfiring ceases to occur when the gas tank is a little less than half full but begins to occur again as the gas gauge reaches the refill zone. It misfires like crazy when the tank is full. I am thinking of replacing the wiring harness for the fuel injectors but this is yet another best guess as to what might be wrong with the car.
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer. I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean.
Codes listed:
P0202 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 2
P0300 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Random
P0302 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 2
P0304 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 4
P0301 (2 separate listings) - Multiple Misfire Cylinder 1
P0201 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 1
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Getting misfires on cylinder 1 and 5 in my 2001 Jetta GLX. Replaced coil pack. Installed a different/used cam position sensor.
Swapped injector 1 and 5 with 2 and 6. Cleaned MAF and throttle body and did adaptation. Checked resistance of plug wires and swapped plug positions.
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I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
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Alright Ive had a misfire on cylinder 1 for far too long. I've replaced all ignition coils and plugs with oem parts. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with oem. As well as 2 injectors. Before I would misfire under load, now I misfire at idle..wiring looks good and not cracked from what I can see. Only codes I reciece are random multiple misfire, misfire cylinder 1. And diverter valve mis function because of my BOV. So what do I do now vortex?
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I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
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I have an '03 gti vr6 with a miss fire problem. Once it's warmed up is when I notice the problem. Just changed all the spark plugs and now I'm lost.
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New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
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So I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
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I just recently picked up a 2000 Jetta VR6. its 173k miles on it and has few issues with it.
The Background. The car had a check engine light on and when i bought it I was told it was just an o2 sensor and i trusted him cuz i knew the guy (sorta). Bad move on my part, but not terrible. After I bought the car, i took it to autozone to just get the codes and be sure. It came up with a P1116 - o2 sensor heater circuit open on bank 1 (expected), and I also got a P0302 - misfire cylinder 2 (dafuq?). The misfire surprised me cuz it did not feel like it was misfiring whatsoever and it did not have flashing CEL.
After driving the car for a few days, I have noticed a few things that make me believe that it is either a faulty injector or seal.
1. The misfire, but not significant misfire. The only time I can tell any difference on how the car performs is when its at idle, it tends to not idle completely steady and vibrates a little more than what an engine should. Other than that, the car pulls great and not any issues.
2. The smell of gasoline is prevalent. It takes about 30 seconds before it just plain out reeks. And if you pop the hood and stick your nose right next to cylinder 2, you probably get high off the fumes (if that's possible). I am sure its coming from somewhere under the plenum because it was leaking some type of liquid that I had initially thought was just oil but I really think its gasoline.
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV GLS. I got a code P0302 for misfire on cylinder 2. I am pretty sure it's the Ignition coil. I live in Canada and my autoparts store only has BWD brand. I have read this is a crappy brand.
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2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
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I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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