Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Ran Hard And Now Won't Start
Sep 11, 2015
Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
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So the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
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OK so been about 3 weeks and still cant get my car to start. So far I have installed a new crank position sensor, speed sensor located on top of transmission, new spark plugs, new fuel pump had battery tested and charged. I have tested the fuel injectors and get 13.1 ohms at all injectors tested the new crank position sensor and get 800 ohms. I just had car scanned with VCDS scanner and the codes that come up are. What else can I check.
[IMG] ....
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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Crank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
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I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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I have a 2005 Toyota corolla with a little over 200,000 miles on it. My car was struggling to start (but would start after several seconds of turning the key. I figured it needed a new battery because the other battery was old. I had the battery replaced and they cleaned the terminals because they told me they were corroded. With the new battery though, the car is still struggling to start. What could be the issue?
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I have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
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My brother has a 2005 MKIV Jetta 1.8T with the auto transmission. He called me this morning saying that his check engine light came on this morning (a regular occurrence; it's not flashing) and the car is 'shifting funny.' He said that the car is not shifting out of first gear until about 3000 rpm, and when it does it's a 'hard shift' with an audible clunk/thump, then it shifts fine after that. He's has a number of small issues with this car lately, but nothing strange with the transmission.
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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So I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
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I'm wondering if this piece of plastic has anything to do with it,also it is a 2001 jetta 2.0 .I just don't know what it is, or what to look up as a part # or name.
About 2 months ago,it just started acting up, shifts fine, but I have to push down hard 75% of the time to get it into reverse.
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I have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
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