Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - No Power To Injectors
Dec 14, 2015
2005 Jetta 2.0L Bev gas engine... Changed fuel pump. and then not getting power to injectors. Changed Battery, fuse block at battery, repaired alternator wire, and changed ignition switch. Tried napa fuel relay and no change. Put old relay in and car started up but died several times. when it shuts off I'm losing power to #32 and 34 fuses. when cycling ignition, power restores at times and car will run. By the way fuel pump has always run since changed. Codes show injector circuit malfunction on all 4 injectors P0201, P0202, P0203, and P0204.
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After changing a head gasket, I went to fire up and noticed three injectors are leaking where they meet the fuel rail. They weren't leaking before tearing everything apart and nothing was done to the rail other than moving it. From what I've searched, it sounds like O-rings. 2002 2.0 Jetta.
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Are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?
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Ok My Ac doesn't work on my 05 Jetta 2.0 blows hot air. These are the steps taken so far to no avail
_Function test A/C System_ A/C is not cold_ Recover A/C, System was low
_Pressure test system with nitrogen for leaks_No Leaks Found
_Charge system and add dye
_Test operation
_Found compressor not cutting in_ Inspect for ground at compressor_OK
_Test for power at compressor_NO POWER GETTING TO COMPRESSOR
_Inspect fuses_OK
What's going on with this and what the next steps might be?
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I have a 2005 Volkswagen GTI with 80k miles. Just yesterday I went to school and the car drove fine. But when I came back and tried to start my car, it stalled out after a few seconds. Now I thought this was a bad fuel pump until I checked it and found that the fuel pump wasn't receiving any power. I checked the fuse and it was intact. So then I went to check the relay and found that if I unplug the relay and plug it back in, the fuel pump momentarily receives power for about 2 seconds then nothing. Any clue what the interference could be?
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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I have honda civic 2005 with 170,000 miles on. My car has been little shaky with cold start in the morning and Engine light finally on. I was told that I need new fuel injectors from local mechanics. I'm a poor student so I decided to fix it myself. I was able to reach down to fuel rail and It was very challenging to take the rail & injectors out. After I finally pop them out with long driver/hammer, It is even harder to put new ones inside, all the way in. I tried put some oil at the end but still did not completely go in. Is there any special tool I need to use to put them in? I tried oils...ect.
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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2005 Ford F-250 6.0 FX4 Quadcab
Where is the cord to plug in to heat injectors on this model? Or does this model not come with the cord to plug in?
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I had my r on dyno today to see same numbers, but injectors or cutting off at 15psi.. and runs lean at high rpms. I think 550cc injectors go up to 18psi??
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OK so been about 3 weeks and still cant get my car to start. So far I have installed a new crank position sensor, speed sensor located on top of transmission, new spark plugs, new fuel pump had battery tested and charged. I have tested the fuel injectors and get 13.1 ohms at all injectors tested the new crank position sensor and get 800 ohms. I just had car scanned with VCDS scanner and the codes that come up are. What else can I check.
[IMG] ....
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The brake lights in my GTI keeping going out, I kept replacing the fuse and it kept blowing out.
I then replaced the relay/switch. They worked for a while now out again.
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Recently my 2005 VW golf has not been starting in hot weather. The radio, lights, and every other electronic will start when i turn the key. I will push the clutch in and try to start the car and the engine will not even try to turn over. I hear the starter kicking in so I know its not the starter. I had multiple mechanical tests done and no results came up. No warning lights are on. I brought it to a mechanic and he replaced the clutch relay... and that didn't work. If i leave the car windows open for about an hour after the interior of my car gets too hot the car will start. So I am thinking if it has to do with a relay in the cab of the car. What this will be or what I should try?
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So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
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Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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I got a feeling of dread when that light came on, luckily I was a block from home so I shut it off and pushed it home. I had a local VW mechanic come look at it the next morning, only the light wasn't on anymore there is a loud humming coming from the top of the engine, the head as it were, as if high RPM, but no clanking or metal on metal grinding. Does it spell game over?
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05' TDI Jetta. The headlights will not turn on. The DRL's will work. I changed the dimmer switch, and put in a Euro switch to try and fix it. But the only thing I get when I turn on the headlights are the running lights. All the running lights and interior (dash) lights work fine. I checked the fuses and pulled the 173 relay (to kill the DRL's).
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I have a 05 1.8t jetta wagon , my transmission went out and it wouldnt grab it would be revving at 5k and 6k going about 20 mph then when i turn it on again, it worked fine but it was switching gear on time but very rough what could the problem be?
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So I have a 05 mk4 golf 2.0 automatic. Ive noticed that when i take it from park to drive the car shakes and makes a huge clunk sound like I just got hit by something. Turns out it was a motor mount, I think they call it the dog bone cause its attached to the body & engine of the car. So it was replaced but the car still does it. But not as hard & not as much. Before when I revved the car it would kind of shake and dance. Since the replacement it parks still when I rev it. But that noise is still there. Someone told me it could be another mount or the torque converter.
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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I've had MK1s, MK2 and now I've recently purchased a mk4 gli 1.8t o2m and I am having a bunch of problems. I just want to know if the noise im hearing from my transmission is terminal or can it be fixed without a rebuild.
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