Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 vr6 Jetta automatic transmission. When I shift my car from park into to reverse or drive the whole car jerks as if it's banging into gears. But while driving it drives normal. When I stop and accelerate I feel the same jerking you would say.
View 5 RepliesI just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 Replies2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
View 5 RepliesTwo months and 2500 miles on my GTI and I feel like I finally know what the DSG is going to do most of the time. Driving with a cold tranny? Expect some delayed clutch takeup and very noticeable downshifting. Downshifting to pass? Goose the throttle a bit before hand to let the car know what you want. Shifting from reverse to drive? Better come to a full stop. EXCEPT! My DSG will still seemingly stall during this transition roughly 1 out of 3 times. I cannot find any rhyme or reason to it and now basically have to sit stopped in N for a good 3-5 seconds before shifting into D to keep the car from doing that quick surge and stop maneuver. I feel like it might be something with the timing of when I press or release the brake. I love every other aspect of the car which is why it's so annoying having to explain to passengers why the transmission in my 30 thousand dollar hatchback just fell on its face.
View 8 RepliesI bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
View 12 RepliesJust a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
View 1 RepliesMy car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
View 11 RepliesEarly senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
View 6 RepliesWhats the right way to shift the car, when I reverse the car and want to change it drive D, should car be at complete stop OR we can still change it from R to P with with car slowly moving back. I usually apply brake, and let it complete stop, then change the gear shifter. But yesterday I was in hurry and didn't wait for the stop, car was very slow, but I didn't notice any jerks or anything wrong with it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
View 3 Replies2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
I have an '03 sport trac with 146k miles on it. Truck is in good shape for the most part, it has been very well kept before i got it. In the last few months i have had the flow master exhaust put in and the k&n intake. I had the vacuum leak problem with the hole in the elbow, which was fixed and discovered after replacing the IAC.
I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.
The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.
I have a 2012 Passat SE (5cyl) automatic with 25k miles on it. I have noticed that when i put my car into gear (reverse or drive) that my car jumps with a little burst of speed (while I am easing off the brake), I don't have the slightest clue of what it could be, or if that's normal or not as i purchased the car less than 3 weeks ago.
View 3 RepliesSince we purchased the car we've been having problems with the transmission or acceleration, when the car is shifting from park to drive engine speed RPM goes up and it is difficult to stop the car from driving. The dealer does not know what to do and the factory support is useless.
View 14 Replies"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?