Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 GTI 1.8T Overheating - Cooling Flange Leaking
Aug 16, 2015
I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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2005 jetta gli 1.8t automatic ( i know flanges are different from automatic to manuel) just recently found the leaking coolant flange. Can I change the flange without having to drain the coolant out of the system. my coolant is new because i recently had the timing belt/water pump etc done so its new coolant and i do not want to flush the system. also will i have to "bleed" the system if i just pull the flange of and replace it if that is possible.
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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My aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
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I have a 99 vw jetta the coolant outlet flange nipple became brittle and broke...its the smaller 1/2 size hose not the two larger ones. Not sure how much coolant actually flows thru there and want to know if i can drive it a couple miles to a shop without it hurting the engine. I believe it's bone dry but don't know and i didnt want to add water since it's 32 degrees COLD. Don't want the water to freeze. The part comes in this weekend ...how far can i drive , with water no coolant....(vw coolant is expensive).
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Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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I have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I am looking at a 05 GLI 5 speed with 133k miles. I drove it yesterday and it runs fine, but I smelled coolant after I turned it off. I was told by the dealer that the turbo is leaking some, it was spooling while driving and didn't seem to do anything funny. The check engine light came on and said coolant was low when we got back, when I cranked it back up the light was out. Just not sure about it.
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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My wifes car started leaking gear lube in the driveway. I traced the leak to the passenger side output flange seal. At first I thought the cause was a bad CV joint but when I tried to shake the axle, I noticed the whole flange moving...How can this be repaired? Does the whole tranny need to be removed or just the output pod?
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The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
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My, auxilary cooling fan isn't working. However, the bigger (primary) fan is working fine. Fuses, looks ok and i see clutch is engaging fine too. well, the a/c is working but not as it used to before. Its cold but very faintly. I suppose this could be because of the not working auxiliary fan.
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I recently picked up an 02 Golf with a 2.0/5-speed. It's just a plain-jane model without all the bells and whistles. My fans and A/C aren't working. I can deal with no A/C but the cooling fans are kinda important. I did all of the trouble shooting. Both fans work on low and high when jumped at the radiator temp switch so my fans aren't the problem. I replaced the temp switch with no change. My OBD-II scanner shows that my actual coolant temperature was about 10 degrees off from my temp gauge so I replaced the temp sensor too. The timing belt and water pump were both changed about 5K ago.
I borrowed a "good" FCM from a buddy's car and that didn't work either. I went through the troubleshooting diagnostics for the FCM harness and see that I do not have continuity between T14/14 & T14/5 on the harness side. This indicates that the "F38 Ambient Temp Swicth" is possibly my culprit. Everything else checks out good on the FCM harness. Where is this switch located? I've searched online and found nothing specific to my 02. For the sake of testing can I jump these 2 wires for continuity to simulate a working switch? From what I've read this ambient temp switch disables the fans and A/C when air temps are below a certain temp. My next step is going to be wiring in a variable speed fan controller if I can't figure this out .....but I'd rather not get in to that if I can get the factory setup working.
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I have a 00 Jetta 2.0 AEG engine code and my cooling fans don't seem to be kicking on the low setting. I have changed out my FCM and have also checked the fans to see if they were burnt out and both fans work on both low and high settings. This is also causing my car to overheat but the high speed will kick on when the temp gets too high.
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I've been troubleshooting my AC for the past couple of months -- 2000 GLX -- and have narrowed it down. I have taken the connector off of the Radiator Fan switch and followed the Bently procedure to start the fans. The high speed will run with the ignition switch ON, but I can't get the low speed to operate. The Bentley manual said if the low speed doesn't run, to use the electrical diagram to find the problem. I need to know where the signal for the low speed fan comes from. I have ruled out fuses, etc.....
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I've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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