Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Cannot Get Car To Start
Jun 1, 2014
OK so been about 3 weeks and still cant get my car to start. So far I have installed a new crank position sensor, speed sensor located on top of transmission, new spark plugs, new fuel pump had battery tested and charged. I have tested the fuel injectors and get 13.1 ohms at all injectors tested the new crank position sensor and get 800 ohms. I just had car scanned with VCDS scanner and the codes that come up are. What else can I check.
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So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
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Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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Crank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
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I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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The brake lights in my GTI keeping going out, I kept replacing the fuse and it kept blowing out.
I then replaced the relay/switch. They worked for a while now out again.
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Recently my 2005 VW golf has not been starting in hot weather. The radio, lights, and every other electronic will start when i turn the key. I will push the clutch in and try to start the car and the engine will not even try to turn over. I hear the starter kicking in so I know its not the starter. I had multiple mechanical tests done and no results came up. No warning lights are on. I brought it to a mechanic and he replaced the clutch relay... and that didn't work. If i leave the car windows open for about an hour after the interior of my car gets too hot the car will start. So I am thinking if it has to do with a relay in the cab of the car. What this will be or what I should try?
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I got a feeling of dread when that light came on, luckily I was a block from home so I shut it off and pushed it home. I had a local VW mechanic come look at it the next morning, only the light wasn't on anymore there is a loud humming coming from the top of the engine, the head as it were, as if high RPM, but no clanking or metal on metal grinding. Does it spell game over?
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05' TDI Jetta. The headlights will not turn on. The DRL's will work. I changed the dimmer switch, and put in a Euro switch to try and fix it. But the only thing I get when I turn on the headlights are the running lights. All the running lights and interior (dash) lights work fine. I checked the fuses and pulled the 173 relay (to kill the DRL's).
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2005 Jetta 2.0L Bev gas engine... Changed fuel pump. and then not getting power to injectors. Changed Battery, fuse block at battery, repaired alternator wire, and changed ignition switch. Tried napa fuel relay and no change. Put old relay in and car started up but died several times. when it shuts off I'm losing power to #32 and 34 fuses. when cycling ignition, power restores at times and car will run. By the way fuel pump has always run since changed. Codes show injector circuit malfunction on all 4 injectors P0201, P0202, P0203, and P0204.
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I have a 05 1.8t jetta wagon , my transmission went out and it wouldnt grab it would be revving at 5k and 6k going about 20 mph then when i turn it on again, it worked fine but it was switching gear on time but very rough what could the problem be?
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Ok My Ac doesn't work on my 05 Jetta 2.0 blows hot air. These are the steps taken so far to no avail
_Function test A/C System_ A/C is not cold_ Recover A/C, System was low
_Pressure test system with nitrogen for leaks_No Leaks Found
_Charge system and add dye
_Test operation
_Found compressor not cutting in_ Inspect for ground at compressor_OK
_Test for power at compressor_NO POWER GETTING TO COMPRESSOR
_Inspect fuses_OK
What's going on with this and what the next steps might be?
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So I have a 05 mk4 golf 2.0 automatic. Ive noticed that when i take it from park to drive the car shakes and makes a huge clunk sound like I just got hit by something. Turns out it was a motor mount, I think they call it the dog bone cause its attached to the body & engine of the car. So it was replaced but the car still does it. But not as hard & not as much. Before when I revved the car it would kind of shake and dance. Since the replacement it parks still when I rev it. But that noise is still there. Someone told me it could be another mount or the torque converter.
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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I've had MK1s, MK2 and now I've recently purchased a mk4 gli 1.8t o2m and I am having a bunch of problems. I just want to know if the noise im hearing from my transmission is terminal or can it be fixed without a rebuild.
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I have an 05 GLI with many mods, far from stock. In the past i have tried to recode the ABS module with my vag com to ABS only because the traction control does not work when you make 300whp and im sick of pushing the button every time i get in the car. The module will not take the recode so i gave up. Then about a week ago the ABS light came on for no reason and i can not turn off the traction control with the esp button so i checked the code.
It said something about a system test (ill have to check it tomorrow to find out what the code was) i tried to clear it and it would come right back with no other codes. Then i took the car out and beat on it and the traction control still works (or trys to) and i hammered on the brakes and the ABS still works and the fluid is still full. Then i came to red light and i after i stopped i pushed the brake petal hard and the traction control light started flashing (im still stopped and not moving at all) It just kept flashing for over a minute even after i started driving. Then the tc light stayed on and the ABS light went off. As soon as i turned the car off and back on it was ABS light on and tc light off. Still only the same code stored. I tried recoding it to a car with ABS, ESP, and HD suspension and it took that coding. But still had the same code so i recoded it back to my oem one.
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So in my 05 gti , the door ajar light stays on and when it does go off it will randomly blink ! I'm guessing there must be a loose connection somewhere ? Also all of a sudden my alarm will randomly go off . It's annoying . I'm not sure how to fix it .
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