Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Blower Motor Died And Then Came Back Suddenly
Jun 25, 2015
2005 Jetta.
I had the AC on and after an hour or so the fan made this dieing noise and crapped out. I shut it off and turned it back on and almost no air came out - even when the AC was not engaged - it just made a weak whining noise.
10 min later I turned it back on and it worked fine, then did the same thing 20 min later. This cycle keeps happening now, what could be causing it? (The compressor is brand new, just had it replaced a week ago, so I don't think it's that).
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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Blower motor has stopped working on my 2008 jetta 2.0. Motor works fine and I have traced the issue back to the fan switch connector which is not getting power. Seems like it should be a fuse issue, but they all seem to check out fine. Not sure where else to look. Is there a relay upstream that could be bad? I have owned since new and it has never been apart.
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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I was driving tonight and all of a sudden my car dies and wont start back up. I try to go and start it and only thing that happens is it clicks once. Battery is around one year old and the alternator was replaced with it. Lately there has been a rattle in the engine bay and i couldnt figure out what was going on. I tried to replace the intake manifold bushings with OEM ones and no luck with that.
I was going to replace with oversized bushing by friday but I don't think that's going to happen now. Whether it could be the starter or if the timing chain could have broke or if the engine could have seized. *(BTW the car is a 2003 Jetta GLI with a 2.8l 24v vr6 6 speed manual.)*
Last time i did an oil change was around 50 miles ago. 6 quarts of 0w-40 mobil 1 full synthetic.
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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Ok so I started car ran for about 15 min at idle but ran rough a few times then died now wont start. O yea I drove it on sunday and the speedometer and odometer stopped working also.
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2005 Santa Fe - 3.5L w/ Auto a/c controls (it matters for price on the resistor. boo!)
I find myself having a really hard time sliding the motor back in. It was difficult to pull out before and now it's nearly impossible to put back in.
The Fan wheel measures 5 3/4"
I believe the issue has to do with prefab installation and a very large wheel causing this to be too difficult to push in at an angle.
I see different dimensions for fan wheels and I'm thinking that may be the key.
I already have to replace the blower motor.
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I recently got another blower motor for my vibe. Got it installed but nothing happened. I replaced the resistor as well. Once I found the secret hidden fuse panel I found that the 40a fuse was blown. I replaced it and it blew instantly upon turning the ignition on, the resistor was unplugged at the time. I am wondering if there could be a short in the wire harness.
The blower went bad a while ago and blew a resistor, I replaced it and it ran for a while until some smoke came out of the dash and then nothing.
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My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
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My air conditioning has stopped working and the dealer tells me the blower motor has frozen up. This car only has 73k on it. Is this common to the 2005 Touareg or ?????
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I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer 4X4 with the 6.0 and Automatic Temperature Control. I need a new blower motor control module, and have been confused by what I have been able to find online. What is the full Motorcraft part number, or other information so I can get one.
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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So the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
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Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
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My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
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Driving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.
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I was recently driving home when I made a left hand turn and the car died. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced 1,800 miles ago. It sounds like a timing issue to me. The last time I had timing issue it wouldn't run. This time it runs. Attached is a video of me starting it with the camera looking at the timing belt. The noise I heard made me shut it off. I did not want to cause more damage.
[URL] .....
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Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.
Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.
Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.
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My girlfriends 2010 Golf 2.5 is worrying me. We went on a weekend vacation to Boston so the car sat for 3 days. I go to turn it on tonight and it just immediately stalls. I was like okay thats weird so I turn it back on and instead of stalling, the RMP gauge keeps dipping and then going back up and theres a strange knocking noise, so I turn it off and then decide to try again. Same thing happens so I go to open the hood and the noise is pretty loud. I noticed a strange smell outside the car while the motor was running, but I can't really explain it. So I turn it off for about 2 minutes and then start it again and its just back to normal, I'm so confused. I drove it about 5 miles and it seems fine, aside from idling slightly rougher than normal. What this could be?
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