Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 Starts But Shuts Off Immediately
Jan 3, 2015
When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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Previously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
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I recently bought a 2004 V10 TDI. When it is quite cold outside, below -15C my Treg will not start, it starts sometimes but will stall immediately. I cannot get it started unless I wait a few days until it is warmer out. When I start it, I wait for the glow plug light to go out but it only takes less than a second, is that normal? I am thinking its the diesel gelling and I need to add an additive to it possibly, or do I need to replace my glow plugs. If I am persistent, I can sometimes get it going after 10 or 12 attempts but I feel I am going to overheat the starter so I am scared to do that often, once started, it runs fine but has tons of CEL codes which are all glow plug errors, I will clear them off, and they will not return.
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This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
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-6 degrees this morning. Drive to class fine, come out afterwards to my remote being dead. I popped off the cover to the door handle and unlock the car....alarm goes off. Try to start the car and MFD says key not recognized...it starts but shuts off after a second. How to separate the key without tools? I can't seem to pull it apart.by hand like the old Mk4s.
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Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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Preliminary information: the vehicle is a 2003 jetta (gli), My drivers door ajar switch is broken and the ccm recognizes it as closed at all times (open circuit), also I was hit in the rear at about 40mph by an f-250 a week after I bought the car and I repaired the damage myself (I am not a body tech). I replaced all electrical components in the trunk as they were all destroyed as well as the trunk lid which has never quite closed the same.
.Key Fob serves no function, (replaced the battery as troubleshooting.)
.If I lock the doors VIA drivers door, passenger door or by key in door, the doors will lock and then immediately unlock.
.It seems to think a door is open even though they are all closed and the overhead lights don't come on like they would if a door was open.
.The door ajar light was on when it first started and the light burnt out after less than an hour in (coincidence? or short? I don't know what circuit to start on).
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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I've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
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2003 Jetta TDI GLI , fuse number 32 (30 amp fuse) keeps blowing immediately after I replace it. I can't start my car because of it. I do have a shorting head light and the glow plug indicator flashes with the check engine light on. This doesn't happen all the time. When it does happen, sometimes the accelerator will not work and instead of idling at ~900 rpm it idles at ~1100 rpm. I usually just restart my car and then it works again. Not sure how these issues are related but I can't start my car because of this blowing fuse.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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So it has happened twice now that gas will NOT go into the tank on my 2001 Saturn L200. The pump immediately shuts off and gas spills out. From some research I believe there is a kinked hose but where and why did this happen 2 months ago and then now after several fill ups between. The first time it happened the problem fixed itself after sitting for a day, I guess I'll find out today if that is the case.
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Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
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Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
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