Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - White Smoke And No Power
Jul 8, 2015
I was driving my 2004 Jetta Tdi manual the other day and everything was fine. I stopped at a stop sign and began to go when suddenly i lost power like I was out of fuel only that was not the case. I looked behind me and saw lots of white smoke puffing behind me. I pulled over immediately and checked the oil (a little low), air filter (still pretty and white), coolant (clean and clear). I added a little oil and drove home very slowly and kept the RPMs as low as possible. There was no engine noise that I could tell.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
Last weekend, I was riding my Golf 2.0L when it started losing power, then a thick blueish white smoke started coming out from the engine all the way through the exhaust. Stopped the car on the side of the road and had it towed back home. I've looked for loss of any oil or coolant but the levels are ok. No mixed fluids from sight. I've had a check engine light for oxygen sensor for a year or so, but I've been told that would not be the problem. I started the car a few hours after it was towed home, it was now cool so the smoke wasn't as thick. The smoke doesn't smell like coolant fluid. I took out a spark plug and there was a bit of oil onto it too. My engine runs normally. People have been telling me to look for head gasket, valve cover gasket, engine head, etc. A week later, I still can't find what it could be.
View 1 Replies
When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
View 9 Replies
I have white smoke pouring out of my exhaust in my 2001 Jetta1.8t , it happens at idle and then a lot at acceleration. The smoke is white and everyone and a while it has a hint of blue. I don't know what is wrong but what do yall think could be happeneing?
View 4 Replies
Its a 2001 jetta vr6, 5 speed, electronic seats all leather with wood trim panels, and I am having quite the issue. When you turn on the car it has a rough idle around 600rpm but doesn't die out. it smokes like a banshee, white smoke. if you come back later and start it, no smoke until you give it gas. some times it doesn't smoke at all. misfire cyl 6 and 5, used to have 4 misfires but spark plugs did me justice, maf sensor low voltage output, bank 1 sensor 2 02 something or another, when i first got it, it would just chug and not smoke at all. the better its running, the more smokes it produces it seems. none of my coils have the rubber graumet around them anymore and all seem to be pretty shot regardless. I have no leaks underneath the car, coolant has no oil mixture in it all all, no visible leaks on the headgasket, and most of the time the smoke smells like gas, but its purely white. I am just wondering what could cause it, im trying to feel out more options before getting drunk and doing a headgasket. no oil loss, no coolant loss.
[URL] .....
video of the smoke.
View 1 Replies
I have an 02 jetta 1.8t just recently put oil in it and it's now pouring white smoke at idle and right around when I'm in 3rd. When parked and running it's puking oil and I have oil sprayed all in the engine bay. I have it sitting now and there's still a drip.
View 2 Replies
Having issue with a 2003 jetta 1.8t. I bought it used and it seemed to run great. Sometimes going up hills i get white smoke for like a minute (probably in too low of a gear when it happened).
Happens on the highway sometimes too if i punch it to pass somebody (like already going 60, punch it to 80). I've read other posts here to get some ideas (turbo going bad, etc.) It seems to coincide with a lack of power or stumbling in the gear I'm in...
View 1 Replies
Let's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
View 24 Replies
I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
View 2 Replies
I bought a 2004 power stroke with 100k miles, ran well for 15k miles then started having low power for first few minutes to no power, regular oil changes and fuel filters at 5k, checked FICM 48v KOEO , 48v cranking, new batteries just in case. Oil pressure when cranking at 50% of gauge , even crank cycle will jump when trying to fire, no loss of coolant, block heater working, it did start a few a few times and blew white smoke until warm then full power but the last 2 times I did get it to start it ran for less than 1 minute and died could not restart.
Fresh fuel additive in both fuel and oil for stickshion, have read hundreds of posts but not seeing similar problems no codes. With key cycle 120 amp draw on passengers battery for approx 25 seconds 48 amp on right battery glow plugs good due to the amp draw? So I think my FICM is good, good oil pressure cranking, the oil pump should be good, ICP good? Because of gauge coming up? Everything I read says black smoke for EGR soot issues. Not sure where to look.
View 14 Replies
I have a 04 6.0l and all of a sudden it started dumping white/grey smoke at idle and when I drive it it goes to black then let off throttle and back to grey/white I had an up pipe leak at the y pipe I thought it might be an issue with that but I just got done fixing it and the problem still there so iam guessing it's either a sticky injector or the ficm but it starts up nice and does not knock around egr delete is don with all the goodies arp studs ect also the injectors have only 30k so it's hard to believe but iam just stumped haven't tested ficm yet and my tuner doesn't pick up any codes
View 14 Replies
2004 f250 6.0, 173k miles. I just had the head studs done and a new head due to a crack in one head, I got it back 3 days ago and she was running great. I towed my landscape trailer yesterday full of mulch and only went about 5 miles with the load, after the job driving to another one I noticed it sounded like it was missing at idle with a small amount of white smoke. Drove it home let it sit overnight, started it up this morning and a cloud of white/ blue smoke and a horrible rough idle. Smoke does not stop.
View 10 Replies
Having trouble with 6.0 powerstoke white smoke out exhaust. We have installed egr delete and still have white smoke and water coming out of exhaust not as much as before. Took it back apart to see if we did anything wrong everything look ok. We did a compression test on all cylinders they check out ok.
View 6 Replies
Yesterday I was coming back from town and as I was looking in p/s mirror changing lanes I noticed heavy white smoke. I only noticed this upon decel or coast. Once I rolled back into the throttle the white smoke would dimminish. I'm sure it was coolant from the smell. The truck (04 F250 CC 6.0) is now at the dealer for troubleshooting. I believe it to be a blown head gasket, but wouldn't that make it blow white smoke out the exhaust all the time? Maybe a cracked EGR cooler?
View 11 Replies
My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
View 14 Replies
I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
View 13 Replies
it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
View 9 Replies
I went out to the store today all was fine came back out and started driving got 2 miles down the road to a red light and the truck about stalled no power it doesn't smoke at idle but revved up it blows black and some white and the truck shakes. I am thinking its stiction or bad FICM????
View 13 Replies
I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
View 7 Replies
I started my car up this morning for work and I noticed it sounded a little different almost like a little more gurgle then usual. I walked behind the car and saw white smoke coming from the left exhaust. The smoke wasn't incredibly white like a cloud but was definitely noticeable i think it smelt like gas or oil I'm not sure (stuffy nose got me some allergies) . After about 10 ish seconds everything was back to normal. What could this be if anything? Hopefully nothing tho.
View 6 Replies
I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
View 7 Replies
