I went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
View 10 Replies2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Passat V6. Couple of weeks ago the check engine light went on. I went to AutoZone and checked. The code read P3081 (low engine temperature). I knew it might be caused by bad coolant temp sensor or T-Stat sensor. I also experienced that the engine would not start occasionally (prior and post the light on).
My question is that whether the low engine temperature can cause the difficulty to start the engine? How can I figure out which sensor is bad?
So this morning I started my car to let it warm up (as I usually do), but noticed it shut off after a few minutes. It did this twice. 3rd time I tried to start it nothing happened, so I waited a minute then tried again, that time it started. Drove it to work without any issues.
View 21 RepliesI got a 04 f150 5.4 and ive ran into trouble and im not sure whats the problem. So im up in the snow right now and every time i start to go threw some thick snow my tires start to spin out and my truck shuts off on me. It only does that when i really give it some gas and my tires are spinning. Could it be the throttle body?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
View 6 RepliesYesterday I purchased an 04 Jetta 2.0 with 179k. It was super cheap and pretty clean. Needs work but I bought it to fix it and daily it. Anyway. When I initially went to look at the car, It started right up. after test driving it, I turned it off to make a deal with the guy. Then started it back up to pull on the trailer. Towed it home, Started right up again to get off the trailer. All was good.
This morning I go out, scan the codes (with an obdII scanner, not vag-com), get the codes, then erase them. Just to get a fresh start at the issues. I go to start the car, and it wont start. Turns over but doesn't fire. Could erasing the codes have done something?
Here's the codes that popped up in case they're important to this situation. P0043, P0102, P3081, P0113. I did scan the codes again after I erased them and it wouldn't start. P0043 is still there.
I have a 2004 mk4 GTi 1.8t and this has happened to me a few times now, I came home from work shut my car off and like 2 minutes later went out to go out to eat and before I left my neighborhood I stopped at a stop sign and my car just died wouldn't start back up so I push started it and then stopped again and the same thing so I tried to jump start it nothing happened so I push started my car got it home came home like 2 hours later and my car ran just fine, the second time it happened I was on my way to work and-and I was coming up on a red light and right before my car shut off my oil light came on so I checked my oil and it looks like I had oil and it was never ticking or anything but the first thing I tried was adding oil and it started up right away and today I went to school to drop papers off and when I came back out my car wouldn't start so I just sat there for like 20 minutes and it finally started and then once again on my way home my car died as I was pulling into my driveway.
View 1 RepliesI have been driving my car with a known P0016 and P0018 codes for quite a while. I know, I know.... Car was not worth sinking a lot of money into so we decided to run it till it died. It has run great for about a year but now it finally has problems. Day before it ran great. First thing in the morning it tried to start and then stalled. It will try and start and putt, putt two or three times and die. I think it has jumped timing. Before I trash it I would like to make sure that is the problem. My question is, can I check for a jumped timing chain at home without doing a major disassembly? I don't have access to a VAGCOM. If that is what happened I will get rid of it and move on but I would like to verify that is really what happened. There is no valve clatter so I don't think it jumped enough to damage the heads.
View 6 RepliesThis morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
View 2 Replies2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
So this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
Car is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
Had an interesting problem with my 2006 Camry (134k miles - all maintenance up to date). After returning from trip, I went to start my 2006 Camry LE and it turned over but never started. After a couple more tries, I stepped on the accelerator while turning the key and it finally started. It's starting and running fine now but that is the first time that has ever happened. The car sat for 5 days.
View 3 RepliesThe check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
View 8 Replies2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
Recently my 2001 F150 4x4 5.4 truck has been misbehaving by being difficult to start at random times. The engine will turn over with however will not fire. After some time, I am able to get it to fire. When this happens the truck start normally for the rest of the day and maybe several days. Around the same time, error codes for a variety of sensors would occur. This problem was traced to a broken PCM connection. When this problem does materialize, no error codes are generated. After some time in repair shop, a probable cause could not be found.
View 9 Replies1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
My 97 Subaru sport has trouble starting when left until cold, it always finally starts, but wont rev at all until its has been running for 20-30 seconds.
Other symptoms include....Once running it also seems to be lacking power across the low rev range. but then seems fine above 4k rpm.
If i get stuck in stationary traffic for a while, the check engine light comes on and i lose all power, it hardly pulls its self off to a start. But if i were to rev the engine and let it drop back to idle a couple of times the light goes off and i get power back to set off.