Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - Stalling / Dies After Long Trips - Leak In Water Pump
Jan 25, 2016
I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
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So my coolant system woes have continued! I recently replaced my thermostat ,thermostat housing, thermostat cover and all of the rings and gaskets. I finally stopped the leak on the driver side which seem to be the thermostat now about seven days later I am experiencing leaking on the passenger side. I walked out from work today and noticed I pool of coolant under the car. I can't tell exactly where it's coming from but it's coming from one of the components that runs off of the large belt. I snapped a few pics from the bottom of the car I don't think this is the actual component that's leaking. I think the leak is just falling off of it . I was wondering where the water pump is located.
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I have a 2008 Prius T6 that I took in for routine oil change at Big-O tires. They called and said water pump was leaking badly.
Pump replaced 2 hours later, but they cannot "burp" car because it won't start. The hybrid battery is apparently too low (1 purple bar) and after repeated attempts it's dead (one vertical bar on display). I've never seen this happen before... I've seen the car battery die (after leaving lights on) but the hybrid battery has never gone low.
Big-O calls and says,
(1) We've replaced pump before and never seen this happen
(2) We called Toyota and there is only one high-voltage charger in the region... we don't know where
(3) Toyota said nothing is wrong with the car, it just needs a charge
(4) Toyota said we did nothing wrong
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So I parked on an incline last night for ~an hour or so, and suddenly my coolant light came on and my reservoir was completely empty. Sure enough, all the coolant had leaked out of the car. I am sure it's the water pump, but it doesn't seem to be a complete failed one because I picked up and filled my car's reservoir back up today and it hasn't leaked at all.
My guess is the pump isn't bolted on right and on the incline, the gasket is breaking it's seal, or some oil dripped down onto it when on the incline and the gasket swelled.
Nonetheless, my dealership is covering it on Friday, and they said they finally are making them with metal housings instead of plastic, and recalls should be going out soon (win for the MKVI crowd).
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How to go about fixing my 1987 AMC eagle. I recently just purchased the service manual and am trying to figure out what I should repair first. I noticed a few weeks ago my car wouldn't idle in the cold.After bringing it to the shop multiple times it still does not run right. In fact, it seems to have gotten worse and has even died while going around 45 mph. Once it does die I find it very difficult to start. I have noticed some bad smells while trying to start it again sometimes gas..sometimes almost a burning rubber smell. (The belts are still in tact) Once it starts again it acts much like it had gotten flooded.
The motor seems to be fine and sounds good when running at proper temp. Recently, it will even die when the engine is all warmed up.Often when I get back in the car after driving it (while engine is still warm) I can turn it over almost instantaneously it doesn't necessarily sound good though. I noticed before all of this began that it would putter when going down a steep hill (or letting off of gas). Do I need to rebuild the carburetor ? Could it be as simple as a bad pcv valve? I have already put in 600+ into fixing this and no results. I am pretty convinced it some sort of fuel issue. I am also concerned the choke might be sticking and needs adjusting.
I brought it into the shop and they tightened the timing belt and secured some loose battery cables. They also said I needed to replace the battery which I then did. This did nothing to improve the how well my car ran. I brought it back and they replaced the distributor cap and adjusted the timing which apparently was way off. This did improve the performance of the vehicle but did not stop it from dying.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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My aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
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I was driving my 2005 RX 330 (138k miles) North on I-75 through Atlanta in rush hour traffic when the car completely died in the left hand lane w/ no shoulder. GDOT stopped six lanes of traffic to push us up and over a couple of hundred yards to a right shoulder. It was determined that due to a coolant leak from the water pump the timing belt malfunctioned and shredded.
I had heard that the water pump should be replaced during the 90k maintenance when the timing belt is changed, but my water pump was not replaced according to my maintenance records. I understand from reading a couple of posts that this isn't always required but that they do check the water pump. Is this correct? And if so should they have noticed that there was a potential problem?
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While washing the Tdi lately I've noticed water leaking into the cabin from a point just overhead the dead pedal. Where this leak may be originating from?
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Some how my aux water pump wires got ripped out and I'm not sure if they shorted out. I pig tailed the wires on the pump and ran the car up to temp and turned car off and pump was not running. If the wires did or can short out what would I look for to replace (ie fuse, relay). Also I'm not sure which wire goes to what pin as the plug got ripped off. Wires are black red, and brown black.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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So I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
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I am suddenly getting 8 mpg decrease both long and short trips. Rotated tires, checked psi and did an alignment but couldn't find cause. I remember my old car had an engine thermostat and when that was stuck open or close the mpg decreased a lot too.
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I have fixed all draining issues, sunroof, fender liners... However I am still trickling water into the drivers side floor pan. I can't see the source.
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07 Chrysler Town & Country with 86K. It's been happening off and on for about a year now. On long highway trips when I'm driving fast (maybe more when it's cold), a whirring noise will build up. It starts quiet and can get really loud. When I get off the highway, the engine noise goes down and the whirring noise is really obvious. I take my foot off the accelerator and the whirring noise continues for about 10 seconds. When I hit the gas again (this time at city speeds, 30 mph or so), the whirring noise instantly comes back and can get high pitched and LOUD, almost like an old police siren.
Last time it happened, I popped the hood to track down the source. It seemed to be coming from the engine block. When you're looking down at it, it's coming from the left side, directly under the drive belt (but not the belt).
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2007 Chrysler Town & Country, 72k. It's happened twice now. On long interstate trips, over 50 miles, the engine starts to make a loud whirring/humming sound. The temp and RPM gauge looks fine. The first time it happened, I checked the dipstick and it was very low (I was overdue for an oil change). I topped it off and it went away for a few weeks but then it came back, after about 100 miles running it 75 mph or so. Then the oil was fine. Pulled off and let it cool for 30 minutes and it was fine but I drove slower. It seems to come on while I'm on the interstate and the engine noise covers it until I get off and then it's very loud. Maybe it seems to get louder when I take my foot off the gas.
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I have a 2001 Suburban, 5.3 liter, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. I often take 250 to 600 mile trips and track my MPG between gas fill ups/rest stops about every 2-3 hours. I use cruise control and maintain the same speed as much as possible on each trip.What happens is my MPG varies from 16.8 to an all time best, 24 MPG between fill ups. What could be causing this?
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A few weeks ago i had a surging idle issue very intermittently, and it went away for a while so i stopped thinking about it. Just got back from a weekend in vermont, about 130 miles each way, and i noticed as soon as i got to vermont and came to a stop sign it was surging, and when i just got home it was surging again. Why would this have picked back up after long stretches of running for a while? Runs great as far as i know, just have this surging idle for some reason.
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A few days ago I had a big PS fluid leak. Turned out the return line had been sliced a bit. I had to drive it for a couple days before I could get around to fixing it. The steering is still stiff and the pump whines. Is this an indicator that I need to replace the pump?
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I have always on my vcds this fault 17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit P1473, what is this? I have golf iv 1.8t ...What is this and what problem to my car. I have got this fault more than one year....
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