Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
View 6 RepliesCheck engine light was on solid - so I hooked up a code reader to the OBD2. Went ahead and cleared code -- hasn't come back yet, but wanted to see what it might be indicating if it comes back on.
View 1 RepliesIt's the same every time. forty minutes into a drive and the TPMS light starts blinking. It blinks for about three minutes and then goes solid. After two minutes or so the light goes off completely. Every time I check, my tire pressure is perfect. I carry a good analog gauge with me and monitor pressure obsessively.
View 4 RepliesIt's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
View 19 RepliesMy 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2005 RX330 a couple months ago. It now has 48,500 miles. The following happened 3 times while driving:
The ABS, Brake, and VSC lights come on solid and the Low Tire Pressure light blinks. Things go back to normal after I turn the engine off and start it again.
Dealer wants to see it first before they do anything about it. Problem is that every time it happened the dealer was closed. I live about an hour away and I’m not even sure I want to drive for one hour while these lights are on.
Reading some postings it seems like this was a known issue with the 2004 models (brake light switch). Same problem with a 2005 model?
My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
This morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.
Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
View 10 RepliesI've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
View 2 RepliesI have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
My wife was about to go into work today and when she started the Accent she said it started rough and revved up two or three times and the check engine light flashed 5 or 6 times. The light stayed on solid after that but there was no loss of power, smoke, low gas mileage or vibrating or any other symptoms after initial start up. I plan to take it to an auto parts store tomorrow (the car is at her work about 20 miles away) and get the code read. What I may be in for? I'm hoping its something simple. I told her to check the gas cap just in case.
View 24 RepliesSo I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
View 9 Replies2 days ago i drove to a store, went in and came back out, started the car up and the EPS light was on. It would switch from either blinking or solid on. The steering still to this point works just fine, and i can not feel any difference in it.
The next day while i was waiting for a ride to get the car dropped at the garage, i went to start the car up and it was drained. Lights still came on but it didnt have enough to turn over. Upon a jump it worked fine, and would continue to run ok. It would restart after that quite a few times, even with full electric load on before starting(ac/radio/all lights/so on). Battery tested at 30% charge and 12v output, couldnt check amps at auto zone because of low charge. Since its factory battery from a 2010 model i just went and replaced it anways.
Since that point i have had both battery and alternator tested, both working fully. The EPS light remains on, and the car still acts 100% normal after 2 days of light driving.
Is it possible the dying battery could have some how messed with the EPS system causing that, and only that, light to turn on? If so, short of having the codes reset at the garage, would it be safe to continue light driving, or should i take it in right away?
Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
View 8 Replies