Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - Overheating When Sitting Still Or At Idle
May 10, 2015
I have a 04 jetta 1.8t that just randomly started having some overheating issues. I just got the car two days ago, and the first day I had it I replaces the coolant temp sensor due to a check engine light. Drove 50 miles and the light shut off. Just yesterday I was sitting in traffic and noticed the temp going above 190 (which it hadn't done in the 200 miles id driven it so far). I brought it home and once I was out of traffic and moving along the temp went right back down to 190. The only time it tries to overheat is when its sitting still or at idle (after reaching operating temp). which is weird.
I was parked in my driveway and let it sit at idle for a few minutes until the temp started significantly rising. i revved it to 2000 rpm (thinking it would rise even more), but to my surprise it instantly went down to 190 again. my big fan isnt running either, but my friend said he doesn't run fans in his and that it shouldn't overheat because of the fan. also, my top hose is warm to the touch, but the bottom isn't. I know your thinking thermostat, but if that was the problem it would :
1: always overheat, or
2: never overheat.
The temp wouldn't fluctuate the way it is.
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What would cause and how to fix my Jetta. It will idle at almost 10 rpm sitting still? It also sputters as if trying to die. It has an after market air intake with a ktm air filter
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1.8 jetta... Seems to do this when at idle only on occasions it goes above 190F. Waterpump was changed about 5k ago so I'm sure its not that. Thermostat still needs to be changed. It seems like if I turn the heat on it stays at 190F.
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'04 Honda Civic-1.7LFirst the car started overheating only it was sitting in idle. As soon as you would go or if you revved the engine the needle would immediately drop after a few seconds. Replaced the thermostat. It seemed fixed, but started doing it again, put in a new thermostat incase other one was faulty. Still having same problem.The system was pressure testing and everything was fine. Then had the system flushed and new thermostat put in. It worked for about 150 miles and started doing the same thing.Brought it in for the water pump, the old one was corroded and warped so it seemed like the problem.
After about 100 or so miles still overheating when idle.We had the radiator replaced, the old one was complete junk, thermostat replaced too. I drove it like normal in town for a day, the next day it started overheating, this time it was doing it while driving, got to about 3/4 up. Turned the car off for a bit, and it didn't do it anymore on the way home.Today I was driving and it was fine for 4 miles, I sat idling for 1 minute, after driving 1 more mile it started overheating, temp gauge got to halfway.
I parked it for a bit and started driving, there was no heat coming from the heater, I had it full blast, nothing but cold air. The car started overheating again, once again halfway. Parked for about 3 minutes and then turned it on, temp was fine and it was blowing full heat out, the car temp was fine the whole way home, no more overheating.
The next step we will take is to replace the head gasket and/or heater core. Is there anything else that this could be? Literally the same week the overheating started, the rear lights were having issues and one time there was no power to the windows. Then the door locks would stop and then work again intermittently. The door locks no longer work at all. Not sure if it is just a coincidence, maybe everything is breaking at once. But there has been no loss of coolant and the oil and coolant consistency have been normal too.
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I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
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My 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
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Bought a 2004 Jetta GLI about two weeks ago. Has 80,100 miles. Ran great for about the first week then the check engine light came on for no reason. It is spitting out two codes.
1) P3081
2) P2181
The car still was running good even with spitting these codes so I continued to drive it for another week. Today I was sitting in the parking lot of a store and the car was idling for about 25 minutes while I ran into the store and I come outside from the store and there was a huge lake under my car and the engine was running hot and smoking.
I let it cool down and poured some water into the over flow bubble looking thing and it didn't look like any water was leaking out.
When the water was leaking out it looked like it was coming from the left middle side of the engine.....
Also I would like to add that the car seems to always run a little cold.....it never runs just in the middle like most cars do...
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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My girlfriend's mk4 Jetta is having some sort of electrical issue and she's about ready to sell it. It keeps going dead after sitting. We got her a new battery a few months ago after she bought the car because it kept going dead. So it ran fine for a bit then started doing it again. Tested alternator, checks out, tested battery, bad battery, took it to local vw specialist, they confirmed bad battery, so two weeks ago, we had a new battery put in. Ran fine for a week then started going dead again. All lights turn on, just a weird clicking noise coming from inside the cabin. She also has an hid kit in it that was just redone by a different shop here. 1.8t motor.
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When my R32 is sitting at idle with the A/C on, I occasionally get what I can only describe as a high frequency "hum" or "moan". I've tracked the noise down to what looks like a sensor or valve on the A/C system, located in the rear of the engine compartment near the left (passenger) shock tower. Turing the A/C off, blipping the throttle, or putting the A/C in "ECON" mode will make the noise go away for the most part.
Is this the thermal expansion valve? And what the heck is causing the noise? Faulty TPV? Or low A/C refrigerant charge? It's annoying as heck and scares the crap out of people near the car.
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So to start off, I own a 2000 golf gls 2.0 it's got 182000 miles on it ... My rpm gauge does some thing weird intermittently. I have an exhaust on it so that's how I know this is happening.
I'll be sitting in traffic, idling, and all of a sudden my rpms go from ~900 to ~700. I start going and I shift into second and as I'm shifting the rpms fall really quickly and if I let it fall all the way it doesn't stop falling at 900 like it usually does. It goes all the way down to ~300rpms and bounces back up to 700. When it gets down to 300 the car starts shaking like it's going to stall and it barely catches itself.
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My 2000 GTI VR6 has been sitting around for a while (since Oct/Nov 2013). Now the car wont turn on. Dash lights up, and no clicking noise of dead battery (actually just put in a new battery). Makes those noises when turning on, but engine never gets going.
What should I check? Battery terminals seem fine. Coilpack? Corroded terminals somewhere else?
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U have a 2004 gli 1.8t. At idle the wideband is reading 16 .5 to 18 at idle. While driving it's normal at 14.4. No check engine light or lean codes tho. is this normal?
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I started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
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About two days ago a noise started happening when I sit at idle... The moment I touch the throttle it goes away. It's rather loud and disconcerting.
The video starts off in drivers seat, then I took the phone to where the vent for the defrost is, and then below the glove box. It's audible everywhere.
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I purchased a 1999.5 Jetta VR6. The guy who owned it said he lost the key, had a new one cut, but not programmed. It started and ran fine with the new key for about 2-4 minutes. He was driving it, it ran perfect, and just shut off. It cranked and never fired.
It's been sitting for maybe a month. I put a brand new battery in it, tried the key. It cranks, will not fire. The sound of it cranking sounds a little off, like low compression or something. Could this be from the key, or does it sound like something else? I'm not sure how an uncoded key would react. I'm towing it to the dealer to have the keys programmed, but I'm trying to think of what else it could be. I was going to check spark or fuel, but I'm not sure what the immobilizer does to make the car not run.
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My wife just got his car and she loves it!. its a 1.8t 5 speed. Runs and drives awesome. She had 2 new beetles before this one with the same motor but they both had 2 1/2 exhaust from the turbo back. The jetta will be done soon but it has this slight growl when its idling sometimes. Doesn't seem like its every time or may be it seems more when its warmed up. We had just changed the timing belt and tensioner and water pump but we did it 2 days after we got it so I am not sure if it did it before or not.
Kinda sounds like a bad needle bearing where when you spin it and can feel little bumps in it...don't know if that makes sense or not. You can kind of feel it when your sitting in it but its hard to say because we just got it. I don't remember the beetles doing it though but may be the exhaust kinda made it less noticeable. It did have a code about exhaust something bank 1?? I am thinking the cat might be bad or the o2 sensors. i have more sensors im gonna try but when i do the exhaust I know the light will be on anyway.
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I replaced the coilpack from the dealer last Summer. It got better as it wouldn't even start for a while after it finished raining. However it has still been finicky even after replacing it. Which brings me to the realization that water runs down the fender panel and ends up on the ground cable located under and to the right of the battery. Am I correct that this would cause the same symptom as a bad coil pack? It seems simple...move the cable right? However should water be doing that? Cause this little sucker is not stopping anything. Just need validation I guess...get new hood insert?
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