Have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L BEV auto..has 124,800 miles on it...when cruising on the highway the car seems to momentarily lose power like as if i let off the gas. Car has the original everything for the most part. Did the water pump and timing belt 2k miles ago. Maybe alternator? fuel delivery?
View 5 RepliesWhat are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
View 2 RepliesI have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesI decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
View 13 RepliesI am going to be looking into this a little bit tomorrow with an oil change and noisy hub bearing.
Car : 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t stock 5spd ~165k miles
Symptoms : Light acceleration (day to day), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to 2-2500 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Moderate acceleration (casual hwy on ramp, stoplight fun), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 25-2800 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Hard acceleration (short hwy on ramp), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 28-3100 range. I do not feel any symptoms noted above.
The hesitation felt is enough to cause the car to feel like it had a short loss of power. This does give a jerky feel.
My thoughts : I know there were issues with the coils in this model/year. I have verified through the deal that the vin had received the replacements but unsure if they are the actual replacements. My dad thinks it may be turbo related (which is also stock and never pulled apart to my knowledge).
I found that this KO3s turbo should be fully spooled about 2200rpms. It seems to coincide with my lower rpm accel that maybe I am loosing some of the spool and feeling that?
Other Info : Am I way off or is there anything I can check for easily? I am not very knowledgeable in turbos beyond their basic functions. This is also my first turbo car. I have owned the car 2yrs now. It seemed to have always been there but I don't recall noticing it on the initial test drive. The trans has been replaced since noticing this for other reasons but did not correct this.
2003, Jetta 1.8t, 5 speed, 76,500 miles ... The other day I was driving and all of a sudden I had a hesitation in 3rd gear. I have relized since that this hesitation occurs in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, but not 1st or 2nd. I am going to change the spark plugs tomorrow in hope to fix this problem. The hesitation occurs whenever you get into the gas and begin to accelerate(typically around 3000RPM and up). There are no dash lights on at all and the cars is running fine besides the hesitation.
View 2 RepliesThe Electronic Power Control light in my 1999.5 Jetta GLS VR6 came on a day or two ago. Now it hesitates like crazy even after I've already pulled out and am trying to accelerate. Is there any common problem/malfunction that would cause the light to come on, and is there any correlation between the light and this symptom? Also, the check engine light came on.
View 24 RepliesI switched my front rotors 4 times in the last 4 years.
I know you probably thinking its the driver. I've owned the car since 2012 and have only put on 46000 kms.
The rotors vibrate and have that weird stop and go hesitation when braking.
Is it simply OEM or nothing?
I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
View 11 RepliesI just purchased a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 1.8T, 5 speed, and 169,000 miles. I need to figure out the engine hiccups. The check engine light is on. The car seems to hesitate between 2000-3000 rpm when the motor is lugged (pulling a hill, passing, etc).
I had the codes pulled at Autozone and came up with the following.
P0172 (Bank 1 System Too Rich)
P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)
P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
P0420 (Catalyst System Below)
P0455 (Evaporator Emission)
P0411 (Secondary Air Injector Incorrect)
So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
View 4 RepliesRecently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
View 2 RepliesWhen i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
View 4 RepliesIf i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
View 7 Repliesso i had a huge coolant leak, changed the coolant flange, filled and ran while clearing air out of the system plus a 20 minute drive = NO leaks
once it hit the highway, coolant gone, smoke everywhere...
no visible leaks
Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T 5-Speed is over heating
Car is still over heating after replacing the following:
- Head gasket
- Coolant fan module
- Geba Metal Prop Water pump
- Full timing belt kit
- coolant fan switch in Radiator
- Bleed the system of all air blow hot air
So Driving the car around town is ok, doesn't over heat, but as soon as I take it on a highway it over heats. I drove it 50 kms out of the city and it over heated, let it cool down and added water. got it back home. Oil light flashed on as I pulled into driveway, turned it off right away. no external oil leaks. Checked coolant, Oil in coolant. also the coolant was boiling, the level was raising up and lowering. I have been reading the forums for a few hours and the oil in the coolant sounds like the oil cooler gasket. Ok so the fans are running and it still over heats. The old metal propeller water pump was very hard to turn so I replaced it with a Geba Metal water pump. no leaks at water pump. Could it be possible that the Oil cooler was causing air to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to boil? And then when the oil cooler "o-ring" finally failed it dumped oil into the coolant?