Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 GTI VR6 Cutting Off After Driving About 20 Miles
Apr 19, 2014
2004 GTI VR6 24V Manual trans. My son's GTI has an intermittent problem that I think will be hard to pinpoint because it is intermittent. I will hopefully have more info this afternoon. Three time now after driving about 20 miles the car will cut off. Usually while slowing down to a stop or to make a turn. So far it has run great at highway speeds.
It has some random symptoms. I drove it to work and it happened to me. The first time I had slowed to about 20 to make a turn and it cut off. I made the turn and let out the clutch and it bump started and I made it to my work parking lot. While turning into the lot it cut off again so I coasted into a parking spot. This part has me puzzled it would not crank the starter. I moved the gear selector to every gear and nothing. I put it in reverse and the starter would crank but would not start.
Came back about an hour later and it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. Drove it home and again about 20 miles and it cut off again. This time it would crank in all gears but would not start. This time the EPC light came on. Left the car and came back later that night and it started fine, EPC light off and drove the last two mile home no problem. I am borrowing a friend from work computer with the VAGCOM software and hopefully will have more info.
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I recently replaced my SAI pump rivets with stainless bolts so everything is nice and tight. However, the pump will randomly cut on and run for a few seconds while driving... i notice it usually when I come to a stop, such as at a stop light. I would assume this is because there is an air leak somewhere in the SAI system... sound likely? Maybe purge valve? I haven't yet had it pressure tested in case there is something I can easily to to rule out most potential sources.
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So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
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My jetta has been cutting off at stop lights ... I've been reading all of the posts here and come to the conclusion that I needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor...once I found the sensor, hours later...I was able to remove it...it's been a week now, and the car runs great!
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1999.5 MK4 Jetta...
So I mentioned in a previous post that my dome light grounded out and melted the wiring down the A-pillar and into the larger harness. I cut the wire out and strangely am no longer burning up fuse #14 (interior lights, power windows, etc.) but continue to burn fuse #6 (central locking system). Probably the wires melted to the door wires and are grounding out.
Obviously I have to do a bigger fix to get everything re-wired (or just a whole new harness). But really, it's just the alarm that is keeping the car from being mobile, as the alarm is somehow cutting power to the starter (this happened to me before when fuse #14 blew - replace the fuse and boom, you have power to your starter again).
I have searched other forum posts fairly exhaustively with no luck - how to bypass the alarm cutting power to the starter? I know there is a fairly easy way to jump the alarm module connection on the MK3s, but can't figure it out on the same module on the MK4s. Again this is pre-immobilizer.
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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My wife's Jetta slows down for a sec or so while driving. I've noticed it when you in 5th gear and just cruising down the road. it almost feels like the brakes are being applied a little for just a sec then it goes away but it will keep doing it every now and then. I cant make it do it. It just does it. I don't know if it would do it in any other gear cause i'm just accelerating and not staying at a constant speed so it might but you cant tell. the car seems to run well. My wife drives it a lot more than me so she complains all the time! gotta get it fixed!
Also, I believe the heater core is leaking. you can smell antifreeze when the heater is running slightly. And she says, but i have not seen this yet that the abs and the other traction light or whatever that are on the dash that has been on since we've bought the car, shut off and the brakes feel like they are not working...that's what she told me so I'm not sure how to explain it but want to mention incase it has something to do with the first prob! they come back on and everything is normal ...well with the brakes anyway.
I have a boost gauge that i want to put on just to make sure it's making boost. it doesn't seem as fast as it did but i don't drive it every day either. the motor is stock with a 2 1/2" exhaust with a 2 chamber Flowmaster from the turbo back so the engine light comes on but i just checked and they codes are for that missing cat
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04 jetta 1.8t
apr tune 1.6v
neuspeed 4bar fuel pressure regulator
3" turbo back
APR TIP
This is the second time this happened to me. First time was about two weeks ago where i was just driving and the car stalled. Tried to start but it sounded like it just wasn't getting fuel. Brand new battery, terminals are clean) Got it started and it was revving high like a cold start, normal but why after driving for 30 mins? EPC light came on also which was strange along with the CEL, a buddy checked the code and it was for the secondary air injection pump. (I have not had that go off in a while. Code po4011 secondary air injection. Had this issue a while ago with that code when i did a short ram intake. Tuner cleared it so i can pass emissions. ) Now today it died about 2 miles from my house. Same thing but no CEL. EPC light came on and car was revving high, luckily 3 cars behind my buddy was there and he give me a push into the gas station. Once again it wanted to start but i felt like no fuel. waited a few minutes and it started right up again until it almost died in my drive way. Cluster comes on when it dies. ignition is good.
My big question is the stalling part and the EPC light coming on, then the car revving like it is a cold start but not stopping? and i need this car to be working.
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My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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I just popped my hood (looking at the engine and condition after ~1000 miles). I noticed the engine was noticeably hot - I drove 28 miles home on my evening commute. 2 hours later the engine is still hot! I'm not worried, just a bit surpised given it is ~55 degrees right now and 2 hours later.
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Info: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
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Is it possible to change the MFA reading to metric? My car is from the US and wanted it to read in kms??? Looked in the manual couldnt find anything....
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So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
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I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
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Been driving for 3 days now for a total of about 100 miles from a full tank averaging 50 miles per gallon. I noticed the gauge still shows FULL. Not even a bar below or something. Is there anything wrong with my gauge?
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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Anything that could be causing this.
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My mazda 3i is cutting out while driving. I added fuel injector additive to gas and it still cuts out. Battery check is fine. What the issue can be. RPM loss
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