Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 GTI 1.8t Started Overheating - Little Steam Coming From Coolant Overflow Tank
Aug 27, 2015
I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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OK, my '01 GTI VR6 has been giving me overheating problems - I've had to replace the crack pipe, and I've been having problems with the plastic fittings (coolant lines around throttle, heater core) all breaking. Turns out the electric fans were bad, I replaced them yesterday. I did check them, neither one was coming on with the AC on, and with 12V jumpered directly to them, still no go, so it wasn't the fan controller.
I was looking forward driving my car without overheating, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Looks like the fans weren't the only thing wrong. The sympton I see is that the coolant overflows the coolant overflow tank, but the temp gauge, while it comes up to temp (190 degrees) it doesn't go beyond that - but I'm having coolant boiling out of the overflow tank?!
I really don't want to say out loud - but maybe a bad head gasket? I've heard there's something that's like litmus paper you can use to see if exhaust gasses are blowing into your coolant - where can I get it?
What may be wrong? Almost anything would be better than a bad head gasket! While I've been having these problems, I've not seen the temp gauge ever go beyond the center 190 degrees, what's happened is that while driving the low coolant warning will come on, I pull over, and coolant is bubbling and overflowing the tank.
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My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
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My 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
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So i have a 01 LS and i love it so much. Ive only had it for 5months and since the 3rd month ive been having some overheating problems. Ive replaced the coolant reservoir it drove fine for about 3weeks then started to run hot again and leak coolant out the reservoir cap so i replaced that. Still ran hot.. so my brother got some air pockets out of the system but, it still ran hot. So i replaced the t-stat. After replacing that it did fine for a few days then started to run hot again. This time it seem to run hot one day and not the next until one day it ran hot constantly and steam would come from the reservoir and coolant would leak from under the car (behind front drivers side wheel.).
So when it leak i would check the overflow tank sometimes it will be full and sometimes not. When it wasn't full I would refill it until i ran ran out of antifreeze. Well i parked it after it leaked out the last of antifreeze that was in tank. So a few days later i got some antifreeze that was given to me by my brother which was red/orange all purpose antifreeze. I filled the tank up as it was dry and had leaked out all the green antifreeze. I started the car and let it run. It ran for about 20min without getting hot quickly like it usually do, air worked great but hea not so great.
Then I started seeing steam come from reservoir tank which was full of red coolant then its started leaking GREEN coolant instead of the red i filled the tank up with. Also the temp gauge never went to H while it did all of this. And the antifreeze drip from like 4 or 5 different places behind my left front wheel. Its a v8 3.9 engine.
I know one day i checked my coolant after it ran hot one day and it was low so i filled it up with water and forgot to put cap back on and i hopped on freeway. Soon as i got off it started smoking really bad i pull over and the coolant was boiling which i also forgot to mention. Thats another thing it has been doing. But the smoke came from the coolant boiling in tank and since i forgot to put cap on the smoke came out freely from tank. Could this have caused a problem. Although my car was running hot with coolant boiling in reservoir way before i did that and even after.
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I know my car has a leak. Blok check test confirmed. Symptoms:
Car overheats after driving for awhile but only intermittently
Overflow is filled almost to top after driving and has wet sides.
Coolant fails to return to engine.
Here is the interesting part. I removed the lid for over flow and took out the hose and exposed it to air. Then I took off rad cap. Instant suction and collapse of both lower and upper hoses. Why did this occur? Bad rad cap and or/ blockage?
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla that my kids drive, it has 171k miles. Recently it began overheating and blowing coolant out of the overflow causing it to appear it is leaking due to having to keep adding coolant. The car does not overheat every time but is pretty consistent on overheating. When overheating, the heater starts to blow cold air but if not overheating it blows hot air as normal.
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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I recently bought a 2003 VW jetta 1.8T with 150,000 miles on it. After the purchase I got about 20 miles down the road and it overheated. I noticed there was oil in the expansion tank. I replaced the head and head gasket on the vehicle. As i was taking everything off I noticed that there was green coolant in the car. WhenI took the head off the pistons were glazed over and a lot of things were charred.
So I cleaned everything and put the new head and gasket on. After everything i cleaned the expansion tank of the oil and put new coolant in. After I drove it around for a little bit and everything seemed fine and there was no oil mixing with coolant. So I left got another 20 miles down the road and it started steaming and the overheated light came on. I checked the engine and there was no oil in the expansion take but the coolant was just pulsing it wasn't a constant flow.
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So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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My car was starting to over heat and I wasn't getting any heat thru the vents. Thermostat was replaced and so was the radiator cap. The coolant reservoir is still topped off, and doesn't seem to be getting sucked thru to the radiator. If I pour coolant directly into the radiator, car temp stays even, and heat eventually does come thru vents, better while driving. But, I still get steam/smoke coming from radiator cap. I cannot be buying and pouring coolant into the radiator everyday. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with approx 140xxx miles...
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I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited, ~180,000 miles. It has been a good car but we've run into some problems the last few months. About a month ago we were driving back from vacation and experienced a loud belt squeal from the engine. Had a nearby mechanic look at it -- turned out it was a timing belt pulley which we had to have replaced.
Now, a couple weeks ago, the day after getting my fluids changed, I was driving over the mountain on another, shorter, trip and experienced sudden overheating - steam coming out from the radiator - lots of discouraging gurgling and clunking sounds as liquid moved around. Had to have it towed 40 miles back home.First thought being a Subaru person -- head gasket. A couple of mechanics nearby when I was broken down on the side of the road gave that as a preliminary diagnosis as well.
Unfortunately, we were leaving for a week on another trip, so I had to wait to have my car looked at until we got back -- about 2 weeks. Now my regular mechanic takes a look -- he says it isn't the head gaskets, but a hold corroded in the bottom of the radiator that the coolant is just pouring out of. Also the fans aren't working. F
I have heard that most people get their radiators replaced before it becomes clear that it is a head gasket issue. So I am very nervous that this issue is actually a head gasket and that for whatever reason my normal mechanic can't find the signs for because it was sitting for two weeks, or for some other reason. He's not a Subaru specialist. I asked specifically that he check the head gaskets and he says no oil in coolant, coolant in oil or sweet smell from tailpipe.
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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