I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesI lowered the car on H&R sport Springs with Koni Yellows. On the front right, the sway bar is rubbing the axle under heavy compression (pot hole, sharp dip, bridge joints, etc) and is rubbing the lower control arm (opposite direction) on the driver's side... I got an alignment when I lowered it and it was "within specs"...
I put on adjustable sway bar end links and lengthened the passenger side 1/4" and shortened the drivers side 3/8". left side is slightly better but right side seems almost worse... all rubbing was minimal (barely through the paint on the cast iron parts and nearly no marks on the axle... both strut bearings are new. is it possible that it could be the alignment? Just seems odd to me that the sway bar end links need to be varied lengths to clear....
Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
View 24 RepliesI recently just lowered my gti and I noticed that the sway bar was laying on my passenger side axle. I put adjustable end links on but that did not got the problem either, this car I daily drive.
View 10 RepliesI got an 2004 gti.... I just dropped it and.. I was having rubbing issues with the sway bar and the axles.. i got adjustable links but its still rubbing.. so my question is.. should i get a new sway bar if so what size? or should i just take it out completely.. or will it not be good if i take it out...
View 6 RepliesThe cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 today I locked the hubs, put it in 4 low and got threw some mud to go hunting fine. got back out of the woods and took it out of 4x4 unlocked hubs and went in reverse 30 yards.. Now when i drive it makes a weird sound like a rubbing sound near the front axle. What this is?
View 5 RepliesWhile driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
Like the title says... Do any lowered mkvi's have any noises or popping sounds coming from your car's front suspension? The reason I ask is on my MKV R32 I had H&R springs on stock shocks and at low speed full lock turns I had a slight poping noise. Everything on the R was installed right and it only had ~3-4k miles on it when the springs were installed. After doing research it seemed like a fair amount of lowered MKV's had this noise and it was thought to have something to do with the strut bearing.
View 8 RepliesI have a set of ST that were put on a year ago. I raised them up in October for the winter. This past Saturday I lowered the car back down. As soon as I did I have the loud noise coming from the front passenger side.
I know it's not the top hats because I had that issue and replaced it and not the same noise. It is not the clunk that people associate with springs.
The noise seems to happen when spring/strut expand and retract.
Called ST today and they said if I had the car all the way down it is my fault. WTF? Why would you make a coil that is adjustable and the customer is able to go all the way down and then say it's my fault IF strut is blown?
The car drives straight and smooth so I dunno if it is blown. Could it be because of a build up of crap between the springs over winter (I saw some.)
I'm going to have my front sway bar mounting bushings replaced with poly bushings next week. Shop said they wanted to order 19mm bushings for my car, but everything I see online says its a 21mm bushing. Which is correct? It's a 2004 R32.
View 1 RepliesChasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
View 5 RepliesSo I'm backing out of my driveway today and I hear the loudest (in one of my cars) double clunk noise ever, coming from the passenger side front. Turns out one of my kw v2's decided it wanted to try and come apart at that corner.
Note: I had one side on a jackstand and could not find the cause until I removed the front swaybar endlink. It was putting tension on the arm and not allowing the movement to be found.
The shock insert inside the coilover body was moving up and down about a 1/8 inch clunking at the top and bottom of its travel. This is the retainer that loosen causing the clunking. I found that the spanner wrench from my dewalt angle grinder, fit the retainer well enough to tighten it down snug.
My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
View 4 RepliesHave a mk4 GTi vr6 with long beaches with sit at an offset of 38. Honestly the offset thing confuses me quite a bit. I'm running 235/17/45 tires. I had my car lowered before the winter and I can only go so low before it starts rubbing. What size spacers i should go with to basically go as low as possible. If not as low as possible, I love a wide rear end so maybe poking in the rear end and lowered in the front for like a rake effect.
View 5 RepliesWhenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
View 24 RepliesI've got an 03 Jetta TDI 5-speed with 210k. I just replaced tie rod ends, ball joints, struts, shocks, springs, and bushings/bearings on the front.
After I took the car off the jack stands, I tried to reverse and the car is held in place pretty firmly. I gave it a bit of gas and it sounded like the brakes were rubbing. The brakes feel a little soft.
I checked the wheel clearance (I didn't lower the car) and everything looks fine. Did I pinch a brake line or something?
I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
View 2 RepliesI am stuck in the process of replacing a driver side CV axle on a 2000 Jetta VR6 automatic. I followed a Youtube video that may have misguided me. I removed the ball joint connection to take out the axle. (I will need a alignment after all this.) I was able to take out the old cv axle, but unable to put the new one on. While taking out the old one, the strut sank 2 inches. I then disconnected the suspension from the braking system, so it would be lighter and easier to push the strut up. However, it will not budge upwards. Do I need to compress the spring? How to move the strut up?
View 14 RepliesWhile switching freeways yesterday and shifting down into 3rd before hitting the exit ramp I heard I a slight clunk, and then this continual noise began. I initially wasn't quite sure if it was my car or the sound of the of the large semi engine braking in front of me so I continued on to the freeway and was able to shift back up to 5th and get to speed.
However, I held back to around 60Mph because the noise started to worry me as I continued to hear it after passing the 18 wheeler semi. I got off at the next exit and noticed that the noise ONLY occurs when the car is decelerating. It happens in every gear as well as neutral; having the clutch in or out doesn't make a difference either.
*When accelerating in any gear, even the slightest bit, the noise disappears.
I've scavenged the forums to find a similar issue but to no avail.
I've uploaded a video that shows the issue occurring. The video is taken from the driver's side wheel, but the sound resonates throughout the front of the car, can't really pinpoint where though.
2002 Jetta 1.8t possible transmission noise
[URL] ....
2002 Jetta 1.8t ... 210k Miles
I've recently replaced the Control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, struts, all for rotors/pads, rear calipers, handbrake cables, timing belt (with pulley kit) water pump, etc. full syn Oil changes every 3k-3.5k miles, Premium petrol only.