This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
View 16 RepliesSo my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
View 14 RepliesJust a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
View 1 Replies2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
View 3 RepliesHere's my question. Recently my muffler fell off the back of my car and was dragging on the ground. The front bracket had snapped off and so had the pipe right where it comes out of the front of the muffler. I want to replace with the stock oem muffler but i can't afford it right now. My question is can i just take the muffler off for the time being so it wont drag on the ground? Will this harm the engine or be completely absurdly loud? Is this even legal....
View 2 RepliesFor a while i've been dealing with this problem but its low priority because I never floor my car. The car drives perfectly fine even if you hold it 5-10 lbs of boost. When it goes into 18-20lbs it wont hold.
Symptoms : Only when I floor it SOMETIMES the car bogs down and the check engine light flashes for a little and eventually goes away. Now this doesn't always happen. Sometimes I floor it and everything works fine. I don't have vag or a laptop to hook it up and see what code is thrown.
The car is a 2004 1.8t GLI
I was driving around and I got a low oil light flashing and it turned off straight away.
So I checked my oil. When I first removed the dipstick it shows full, wiped it clean and put it back and it showed empty.
I put have a bottle (small one can't remember size) of oil in. I drove around parked waited a bit, and it does this same thing.
So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
View 1 RepliesMy 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
View 6 RepliesMy 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
The check engine light came on in my 2000 Jetta and the engine power suddenly decreased noticeably. Got worse quickly and was idling rough, like it was about to stall out (but didn't). Took it to dealership, they said spark plugs were the problem and replaced. All seemed normal driving home, but after 10 minutes, same problem: check engine flashing, weak engine (trouble on hills), and a rough idle.
Two questions: what could it be?
and is it safe to drive back to dealership (~10 miles) or might that cause further damage?
Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
View 4 RepliesWhen I was driving home from work today PRNDS started to flash and i stopped my car and turned the ignition off, when I tried to start my car again nothing happens, Engine is not starting and the PRNDS flashed on the mfd. I had my laptop with me and plugged in vag-com to see if the error codes was the same people gets when mechatronic is failing but they was different and car should start even with bad mech.
The error codes i get is:
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100001
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100010
28775 - No Communication with Gear Selector Module
U0103 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
Fault Status: 01100100
00194 - Ignition Key Removal Lock
008 - Implausible Signal
Fault Status: 01101000
My car is in my garage and I have checked all of the fuses and removed/replugged the main contact to my mech box.
The past two days when I went to warm up my car, when I got back in it to leave I noticed the engine coolant light flashing. I checked the book and it just says if its flashing to contact the dealer. I have already done so for my next maintenance anyway. It has been around 10 degrees out both times when i started it. 2012 GTI with 9300 miles. Also, if you turn the car off, and start it back up, it does not come back on..
View 16 RepliesSame symptoms as last time : [URL].....
I did notice that the theft light is not flashing this time. Truck acts as if its not in park. I have wiggled the shifter, and even tried to start it in neutral with no luck. Im really thinking that it has something to do with the anti theft/PATS system.