Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 - Auto Transmission Doesn't Upshift
Aug 25, 2016
So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
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I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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PO730 and P0740 codes at the same time auto transmission slips in 4th gear really bad but not all the time...
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I'll start this off with a few months ago, I went on a trip and along the way noticed that the car wouldn't get into gear. This happened for a few moments, and solved itself.
Fast forward to a few days ago:
So, my Golf MK4 AUTO 1.6L transmission doesn't want to shift into 4th, sometimes.
One and two are good, but sometimes I get quite a lag in between disengaging 2nd and getting 3rd also.
Furthermore, sometimes I get 4th 'semi' engaging, where the engine is revving too much to be fully in gear, but I get power to the wheels and accelerate (slowly).
I did a VAGCOM scan and got the old:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I also had a CEL on my dash, which I cleared with the VAGCOM. This removed the light, but of course the error still persists.
I've been reading around, and some people have said the issue is the TCM, but some people have had similar problems and a TCM replacement has not fixed this.
(Just btw, my TCM model is 01M927733LK).
And some people have had good results with solenoid replacements. So, I was thinking of doing a ATF flush, just because it was recommend on some posts, but won't necessarily fix the problem.
Contacted a garage to do this for me (never flushed automatic tranny before) and mentioned the VAGCOM codes, and he said this is a slip code.
So, now I'm not really sure what to do to fix it. Are the solenoids interchangeable? Am I able to switch two gears' solenoids to see if it moves the issue to another gear, proving its the solenoid?
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My Mk4 GTI has a problem with the transmission searching up and down for a gear, second to third then back down to second and so on. My local dealer wants to put in a temp sensor because that's what the code says but to do so costs almost as much as dropping the transmission. He won't guarantee that will fix the issue so I am inclined to just buy a used automatic and spend the money on a complete replacement. It will probably cost me a few hundred more but seems like a better long term solution. Of course that depends on the used transmission.
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So, I have a 2009 Golf City (Canadian mk4.5) with the 09G 6 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission. It's at 80k kilometers and shifting fine, I can remember maybe one 1-2 slip bump a few weeks ago but that's it. Shifts in Drive, Sport or Tiptronic are smooth and forced downshifts are smooth as well. I do want to follow the US service interval of 40k miles, and of course, my dealership won't do anything with this transmission unless it's broken because "Your fluid lasts the life of the car sir!" That, of course, we all know is BS because every transmission wears, and I don't want millions little metal shards of hardened steel having a party on the inside of my transmission.
This being said, I know that you can do a pan out filter and fluid change, but your only getting about 5L of fluid of the 9L that the 09G has. Or I can pay a local trans shop to do a full flush without dropping the pan by tapping into the in/out fluid ports and flushing everything out. My worry about a flush is that it will take these little anarchist metal shards and put them in a spot where they get stuck and have an all out project X-style party with my solenoids, gears, and torque converter. And the filter still won't have been changed!
Or I do the former where I get the ECS Tuning kit, drop the pan and clean out these little bastards and put in a new filter and not worry about the last 4L of fluid that still might have some of these buggers in it...
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I have an 04 jetty with an auto Transmission. It doesn't seem to shift after the first time when speeding up. What might cause this?
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I need to take the tranny (automatic) off the old engine (BEW).
What are type/size are the bolts connecting the tranny to the block?
The 2 bottom ones I got out using (assuming) 10mm (?) triple square.
What size (socket/tool) and type (triple square, torx, allen) are the others?
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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Just picked up a 2002 golf 2.0 auto for $200. Get the car home start it up and it runs great but... transmission shifts all kinds of funky. Starts in first then shifts to third. If I give it some gas it shifts down to second but has nothing there, just revs. Will not go into 4th at all. Throw my little mac scanner on it some codes come up. Only one that mattered was p0277 if I remember. Do a little search and it comes up as the g68 under the tranny mount. Change that out and had not cel. Still shifting the same but no code at all. Throw my scanner on just to see and get p0730 incorrect gear ratio.
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About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
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So I have an 05 MK4 GLI, my alarm has not worked since the day I got it. Hold the alarm button on the fob, no luck. when I lock or unlock the car, the lights don't flash and the horn doesn't beep. My ex had an 03 GLS 2.0, alarm/lock/unlock worked without a problem, so why mine doesn't work.
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So it started when the auto up DID work, and when it closed, it automatically came back down. In order to close the window, I had to use the switch in the non-auto mode. Now, the auto up and down don't work.
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We've use the Auto position for he headlights most of the time since our 2008 was new. Not every time, but too often, the speedometer cluster lighting doesn't switch to dimmed setting when the headlights come on. It seems to happen most frequently when we are in a parade at night. The backlight for the radio dims properly with the Rheostat, but not the Speedometer Cluster. To get it to work properly, you simply need to turn he headlights off and back on again. (or today, open the door)
Sometimes the dim after a 5 second delay (after covering the sensor), and other times, they don't dim after a 20 minute drive in the pitch black.
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I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
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Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
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Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
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