Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 2.0L Sputtered For A Second And Shut Off Now Won't Start
Jun 14, 2014
I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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I have a 13 year-old VW with low mileage (about 87,000). I replaced the battery a couple of years ago, and once the compressor died I decided I could live without A/C since I live in Wisconsin. Last summer I went to turn it over, found the speed- and tachometers went a little haywire and the check engine light came on. After trying a few more times, the engine did start but then sputtered and gave out. I had the car towed, but by the time I got to a shop the tow driver said the check engine light was off and he was able to drive it into the garage.
The garage flushed the fuel line and checked the computer, all seemed fine. Then a few weeks later my wife said it wouldn't start (I was working out of town). By the time I returned it was clear the battery was dead, even the keyless entry and internal light didn't work. My father in law, who knows cars fairly well, thinks my alternator needs to be replaced. I'm now at the point with this car that if it needs major repair I might let it go. I'm having the car towed to a shop on Tuesday, they'll run a diagnostic and tell me what's needed to get it back up and running.
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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I went to start my car this morning and it seemed my battery was dead. I then had my car jumped. It started fine, but the trip meter was reset. As i was driving it seemed fine. I then came to a stop at a traffic light and the engine started failing. I parked and the guages started going nuts, the engine was making a high whining noise, it sputtered a bit and then shut off. What is going on? Is it something i can do myself having little experience working on cars?
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I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
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Car shut off while driving. Saw it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced fuel pump. Got fuel. It will crank. Still won't start. Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Still no luck. No battery. No luck. Timing belt is perfectly fine. I checked the ecm relay and it seems to be working. It won't get a spark. It will try to crank but will not get a spark in any of the cylinders..
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My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
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Yesterday I purchased an 04 Jetta 2.0 with 179k. It was super cheap and pretty clean. Needs work but I bought it to fix it and daily it. Anyway. When I initially went to look at the car, It started right up. after test driving it, I turned it off to make a deal with the guy. Then started it back up to pull on the trailer. Towed it home, Started right up again to get off the trailer. All was good.
This morning I go out, scan the codes (with an obdII scanner, not vag-com), get the codes, then erase them. Just to get a fresh start at the issues. I go to start the car, and it wont start. Turns over but doesn't fire. Could erasing the codes have done something?
Here's the codes that popped up in case they're important to this situation. P0043, P0102, P3081, P0113. I did scan the codes again after I erased them and it wouldn't start. P0043 is still there.
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I have a 2004 mk4 GTi 1.8t and this has happened to me a few times now, I came home from work shut my car off and like 2 minutes later went out to go out to eat and before I left my neighborhood I stopped at a stop sign and my car just died wouldn't start back up so I push started it and then stopped again and the same thing so I tried to jump start it nothing happened so I push started my car got it home came home like 2 hours later and my car ran just fine, the second time it happened I was on my way to work and-and I was coming up on a red light and right before my car shut off my oil light came on so I checked my oil and it looks like I had oil and it was never ticking or anything but the first thing I tried was adding oil and it started up right away and today I went to school to drop papers off and when I came back out my car wouldn't start so I just sat there for like 20 minutes and it finally started and then once again on my way home my car died as I was pulling into my driveway.
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I went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
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Today my car for one of the many times has shut off while i was braked at a red light. Car will be running fine and then i see the cluster shut off, car bog down and then the ignition is killed. I then have to put the car in park and turn over the car. Happened about a hand full of times over the past year. Why it might be happening? Possibly fuel line replacement?
In addition, the car also is having an electrical issue somewhere that makes the car shut off the ecu and restart it. From that, the cluster resets the time , the trip counter resets to zero with the radio shutting off completely, and wiping the AM/FM presets. I believe this could be from a short somewhere in the alpine stereo system the car has and the possible LED floor lights that are tapped into the 12V Cigarette lighter in the dash.
04' Golf Gl 2.0L, Auto, 87xxx miles.
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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening
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So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
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I have been driving my car with a known P0016 and P0018 codes for quite a while. I know, I know.... Car was not worth sinking a lot of money into so we decided to run it till it died. It has run great for about a year but now it finally has problems. Day before it ran great. First thing in the morning it tried to start and then stalled. It will try and start and putt, putt two or three times and die. I think it has jumped timing. Before I trash it I would like to make sure that is the problem. My question is, can I check for a jumped timing chain at home without doing a major disassembly? I don't have access to a VAGCOM. If that is what happened I will get rid of it and move on but I would like to verify that is really what happened. There is no valve clatter so I don't think it jumped enough to damage the heads.
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This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
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2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
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So this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
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1990 GMC with 4.3, 6 cylinder. He saw no spark so after checking on prices for things like rotor, cap, module, he just bought a rebuilt distributor. Installed it and it still will not start. If we run the coil wire to a plug, we get a spark. Check an individual plug, no spark. Yes, the rotor is installed ! I would think module, but rebuilt distributor came with one. Crank position sensor? I don't see one. Does a 90 year have one? How bout ECM? When it stopped working, he was driving it and it spit and sputtered and stopped. And, just in case....where is the ECM on this truck?
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My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
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