First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
View 9 RepliesMy aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
View 1 RepliesMy son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
View 13 RepliesOk, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
View 4 RepliesOk so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
I have 2003 Civic, 125K. I am having an issue that the hose that connects radiator and coolant reservoir keeps disconnected at the top of radiator. I am sure this is due to pressure build up in radiator, and radiator cap functions. I also have seen lower level of coolant in my radiator but reservoir is full (of course the hose I mentioned above is connected!). I took my Civic to a shop and they bled radiator but didn't fix the problem. I am certain there is a blockage somewhere in between reservoir and radiator. Would flushing the cooling system fix the problem? I just want to give bit more specific information to my shop.
View 12 RepliesMy girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
View 3 RepliesSo my coolant system woes have continued! I recently replaced my thermostat ,thermostat housing, thermostat cover and all of the rings and gaskets. I finally stopped the leak on the driver side which seem to be the thermostat now about seven days later I am experiencing leaking on the passenger side. I walked out from work today and noticed I pool of coolant under the car. I can't tell exactly where it's coming from but it's coming from one of the components that runs off of the large belt. I snapped a few pics from the bottom of the car I don't think this is the actual component that's leaking. I think the leak is just falling off of it . I was wondering where the water pump is located.
View 5 RepliesSome how my aux water pump wires got ripped out and I'm not sure if they shorted out. I pig tailed the wires on the pump and ran the car up to temp and turned car off and pump was not running. If the wires did or can short out what would I look for to replace (ie fuse, relay). Also I'm not sure which wire goes to what pin as the plug got ripped off. Wires are black red, and brown black.
View 2 RepliesSo I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
I have a 2007 Camry with V6, automatic. My wife drives it daily and she said that a light came on saying water temp and it started to run hot. When I looked at it I could not see fluid anywhere and the reservoir along with the radiator was very low, almost a gallon of fluid to fill it up. I took the shroud from over the top of the radiator and along the top of the radiator and where it meets the fins the pink dried fluid was along it. I could also see where it looks like it's getting onto the electric fan. At first I thought the water pump was going (147K) but now I think it might be the radiator is bad....
View 8 Repliesi just did a new timing belt water pump kit on a 2001 1.8t (aug engine code) the new pump has a metal impeller. i ran it in the drive way for mots of an hour off and on. figured it was good. took it for a drive and at 5 miles it overheated. Temp Went straight to 260 and stop light came on. coolant could be heard boiling in the system. when i let it idle and ran the heater i got the temp to go back down to 190. but after idling for couple minutes it started going back up. I don't think the stat is bad considering that the heater works which shows that the system is flowing.
View 5 RepliesMy Town & County started running hot.. sometimes... I first replace the thermostat, but still ran hot. But I never saw any indication in the engine compartment of overheating or bubbly fluid or such, so I took it to the dealer, where at first it ran fine. Then started running hot, they were confused because the lower hose was a lower Temp then the upper hose so they wanted to take the water pump off and look at it. I asked if they verified that the engine was actually running hot, I also questioned them about the lower hose temp, because I think if its working right it should be a lower temp. They said would check both items.
Then they called back and said they thought I had a blocked radiator (no mention of the water pump) and wanted $900 to put a new one in. Got van back, drove it home and check the radiator and there were some cold spots and hot spots in the radiator. Called local radiator place and they suggested I flush it. I did, it ran perfect for 1.5 days and now overheats again. Now most of the Radiator is cold to the touch just around the edges is hot. the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose and is hot all the way to the radiator (maybe not as hot at the radiator as by the thermostat.Question: Bad Radiator or Bad Water Pump?
1995 Isuzu Rodeo. Replaced water pump, thermostat, timing belt & components. Now it over heats & no heat in cab. I was told to "burp" the cooling system but can't find the bleed valve. Is there even one on the V6 engine???
View 3 RepliesMy 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
View 1 RepliesI had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
View 12 RepliesOk so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
View 9 RepliesWe had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…