Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 1.8T GLI - AC Seems To Be Cycling On And Off Sporadically
Aug 2, 2014
Car is a 2004 1.8T GLI. My A/C seems to be cycling on and off sporadically. Some days it will work great and other days it is non existent. For example, this morning I had the A/C blowing ice cold with everything running as it should including the fan. Well now that a couple hours have passed, my A/C is now dead and only blowing hot air in my face as usual. Now, I have had the refrigerant levels checked and refilled twice now by an A/C specialist. He assured that all mechanical aspects of the A/C system are fine and that I might have an electrical problem. With that said, I have gone through a list of possible causes. Here is what I have checked so far.
-All of my fuses including the three on top of the battery have been tested and came out fine.
-Refrigerant levels are within spec (checked for leaks by A/C tech and found nothing. Twice.)
-Both of my fans are working. The small fan engages with either rising temperature or when the A/C decides to work.
As of now it seems that I am not receiving constant power to the compressor as it will engage randomly throughout the day(s) if left on. I have no clue where to look next.
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I have been having an overheating issue with my 2001 1.8 turbo Golf GTI MK4. What I have replaced and checked:
-Supposed new water pump (dealer said they changed it when they did timing belt) (to be even more clear i pulled the top line off the coolant reservoir and there was a constant flow of coolant from the line meaning the pump is indeed working.)
-Thermostat (I personally changed it, 190* thermostat, aftermarket brand)
-Green top coolant temperature sensor (I personally changed it, its the one on the flange at the head, from the dealer)
-Cooling fan Thermo switch (I personally changed it, its the one located on the driver side on the radiator itself from the dealer)
-Checked fan motor speeds and operation. (I tested the cooling fan thermo switch and both fans came on at low speed, as well as both fans came on at high speed, which according to this test states the thermo switch is bad, but i already replaced it.)
I used the operation : [URL] .....
What my car does:
-Car starts to warm up and reaches 190* and fans start to cycle
-Both top and lower radiator fans become hot
-Car starts to get hot (indicator starts to go to the first line after the 190 line)
-Fans stop coming on
At this point i do one of two things to resolve the issue:
-start to drive (thus getting air through the radiator, and it cools the coolant and the engine.)
-turn off the car
What the problem is:
The fans wont turn on, on their own past a certain temperature, but sometimes when i turn the car off the fans will then kick on. (At idle, with the car on, they wont turn on again past, what seems, a certain temperature.)
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I have a 2004 5.4 and the A/C cycles on and off too frequently making it take too long to cool the cab. Had A/C service done this weekend and initially I thought it worked, but now a few days later, it still cycles on and off. Is this a simple relay or switch somewhere?
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My 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
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My Mk4 R32 has been in the shop for a week now. My number 2 cylinder began sporadically misfiring on the highway and then once I turned the engine off and then back on it would run fine until I got back on the highway and began to accelerate up to about 60.
Took it in and the mechanics couldn't replicate the code. Got a vacuum tube replaced and and it ran fine until I got to the highway. Same issue.
At this point the fuel injector has been replaced and its still throwing the code.
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I'm not sure where this should be posted, but my MFD showed a mileage reset to 0 today. I only reset at fill-ups so that I can do long division.
Anyway, while trying to figure this out, I saw on the Consumption screen that the AMPG also started bouncing around. Before I shut off the engine, it bounced between 39 and 42.
Since the last fill up, the pips have been decreasing quickly...4 in 71 miles. I know the pips are not a linear measure, but 4 in 71 miles seems pretty quick.
Where I should start looking?
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I have a V40 with 122,000 miles. About 4 to 5 years ago it started to sporadically drop subtly the RPM. It does this no matter the weather, air on or off, etc. the dealer about 2 years ago changed the idle sensor. The problem still exists today. This does not affect the performance of the car. I bought the car new, the transmission was replaced about a year and a half after I bought the car.
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So for the last few months, I've had my check engine light on my 111,000 mile 2005 Prius going off sporadically. Everyone tells me it's the gas cap, but I've been putting off replacing it because I want to make sure I get something compatible.
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More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
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My wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
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In the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
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My 04 jetta, if I use any buttons on the remote it sets the alarm off. I've checked with a vag com and can see all the doors, hood and trunk open and close. Central locking works, it locks at speed, and will lock / unlock all the doors from the drivers door lock .
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Can I use my key to open my trunk in the case of a dead battery? I disconnected my battery last night to try it out, but it wouldn't open. Some people say turn the key 50 degrees, but I don't think my key will turn that far. I was also scared of snapping the key off in the lock.
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For a while i've been dealing with this problem but its low priority because I never floor my car. The car drives perfectly fine even if you hold it 5-10 lbs of boost. When it goes into 18-20lbs it wont hold.
Symptoms : Only when I floor it SOMETIMES the car bogs down and the check engine light flashes for a little and eventually goes away. Now this doesn't always happen. Sometimes I floor it and everything works fine. I don't have vag or a laptop to hook it up and see what code is thrown.
The car is a 2004 1.8t GLI
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My wife has a 2004 jetta gls 1.8t we just got some stock 18" bbs gli wheels . she wants to lower it some. Not really wanting to spend the money for coil overs... she will never adjust them and shes not racing it... just want it to look better. How much to lower it...
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I have a 2004 GTI 1.8T 02J, I am changing manual trans. fluid, I have searched but found no promising leads, a friend told me it was 2.1 quarts, not sure, though, what is the max capacity for manual trans. fluid...
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I have a Bora trunk lid off a 2004 with the euro plate and lip my question is this how do I take my old trunk lid off because its wired in there I'm assuming its maybe a clip but all and all I just want to take the trunk lid off...
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I have a GTI with a turbo that leaks oil.I don't exactly know what to do. The guy i bought it from said it had "Bad Seals" I've seen many rebuild kits online for my turbo(KO3) Looking through the kits i really only sea one seal. One single O-ring. So that doesn't seem right but this is my first turboed vehicle so i can honestly say I don't know much. Should I buy the Rebuild kit or should I just buy a new Turbo? Any video to reference too because i don't even know how to remove my turbo.
Also, on a side note. I was being a show off one day and tried speeding off like a dick.I went from first and grinded HARD into second and since then I haven't had first gear. Now i suspect its my synchros. But like i've said before. I don't know much.
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Have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L BEV auto..has 124,800 miles on it...when cruising on the highway the car seems to momentarily lose power like as if i let off the gas. Car has the original everything for the most part. Did the water pump and timing belt 2k miles ago. Maybe alternator? fuel delivery?
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U have a 2004 gli 1.8t. At idle the wideband is reading 16 .5 to 18 at idle. While driving it's normal at 14.4. No check engine light or lean codes tho. is this normal?
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