I have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with a rusted out flex pipe. The leak is causing a bad smell and also a lot of noise -- What's my best option to replace the downpipe (but also other parts if need be) without having to weld it?
View 6 RepliesSo I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
How to replace this bad flex pipe....
View 25 RepliesI think I need my exhaust flex pipe replaced. My car sounds so old and crappy when accelerating. Is there anyway I can cut this out and replace it myself without welding? If I do need to take it somewhere can someone recommend a good replacement part? Here is a pic of it....
flex pipe camry 5.2.2015
So the flexpipe on my exhaust is cracked and completely broken, so my passat sounds like a Mack truck. I've been looking into getting it fixed and I've been told i need to buy an entire new down pipe. Should i attempt to just get it fixed or buy a new down pipe.
View 4 RepliesI recently had my 06 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 v6 brought into my local repair shop for a flex pipe replacement and ever since I got it back the check engine light has come on. I brought it back in, they said the 02 sensor needed replacing, replaced it free of charge, got the car back light went back on again and they said this time they put the wrong sensor in so they replaced it, now the light is coming back on again. It seems to go on for a day then go off for a day. I've only had it back for about 3 days so far.
Could this be perhaps the 02 sensor needs to break in or the computer needs time to reset or something like that? What could be causing this issue? Should I wait a couple more days before bringing it back in to have them.
My flex pipe recently broke, and as a temporary fix I pieced it together using a universal flex pipe and some exhaust tape and clamps. When shopping around, I came across this:
Walker Exhaust Pipe 50465 - Read Reviews on Walker #50465
Is this an OEM part for a 2008 ford escape 3.0? It looks somewhat correct, although I do not remember seeing the other two fittings in that picture on it. (It looks like the end with the flex pipe is the end that connects to the catalytic converter, and the other two connect to the front and back headers on the engine, but I don't recall seeing a fitting like whats on the end of that flex pipe on my car (It could be that it was cut off, too).
If this is the OEM one, then perhaps the original exhaust shop cut off the fitting between the cat and where the flexpipe attaches. Is there a way that I can get parts to re-make this section of exhaust so that I can use this piece? The flex pipe they originally put in was too big and it came loose again forcing me to have to rig it again since I can't weld, and needed to get it fixed quickly.
I really do not want to replace the entire exhaust system if I don't need to, and hoping I don't have to.
Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
So the rear rack mount on my 2dr Golf has completely rusted out - theres literally nothing to stop the one end from flying around.
I'm moving in 2 weeks and was counting on my Golf to make it happen - the racks were going to haul the mattress, couch and dresser.
Can i get a replacement mount or am I stuck with getting a new set?
Come out to the this am and notice a small puddle that was not there last night. Pull the car out and it's start burning something off. Roll the car in first thought is oil (maybe the turbo return line is leaking) no its coolant. On the lower portion of the down pipe and running across the bottom. I'm at a loss as where the leak could be coming from being back there.
View 6 RepliesI installed the non-resonated exhaust, but I noticed that some air/water condensation is coming out of the small pipe that join the cat and non resonated part of the exhaust.
I double checked the position of the small part and is very deep inside the other tubes, plus I checked the clamps too.
Putting a straight pipe from the cat back on 1.8T mk4? I was thinking going 2.5 inches from the cat back with a tip. But I wanna know how loud it is.
View 6 RepliesI have a 04" GLI and I was thinking about doing a coolant flush. Looks like I have a slow leak. I was wondering where should I look in order to stop the leak. Put some coolant in about a month ago and now the coolant light is back on. Every morning when I pull out of my driveway there is a small leak under the driver side of my car. Is this an easy fix? If I do decide to do the coolant flush myself what is the recommended coolant replacement?
View 4 RepliesMy 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
View 2 RepliesI've got an '04 1.8t jetta with 158k on the clock. Recently noticed I have a coolant leak on the passenger side of the car. Started the car in my driveway and looked for drips and found coolant collecting in the front valence right underneath the intercooler. Took a look from the top and noticed the hose going into the bottom of the part shown in the picture is leaking like a sieve. It's the metal canister-type thing on the passenger side right next to the radiator. What part this is? And where I can get a new hose that connects to the bottom of it?
View 11 RepliesI recently put a fmic on my mk4 and a 3" dp... My question was : any kind or heat wrap on the down pipe or intercooler piping? I also didn't know if painting the ic pipes with ceramic paint would keep the temp down.
View 4 RepliesI have coolant leaking from the bottom of this hose on my brothers car. I am not very familiar with the BEW's as I drive an ALH. Just looking for info about part number or name on this hose so I can get a new one. Has a part number MH3364 on it but that is not working anywhere.
View 2 RepliesMine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
View 5 RepliesSo I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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