Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 VW Won't Move / Just Revs
Nov 16, 2014
I have a 2003 Jetta Gli with a VR6 manual transmission 6 speed. So the other night I am pulling into this store parking lot and all of a sudden my car is just rolling its still in gear and running but when i push on the gas it just revs the motor i thought i was in neutral for a second but I wasn't so I jump out and push it into a parking spot.
Car is running but when i put it into gear and let off the clutch it just revs. so i have i towed to my house it was late so i decided to look in the morning.
So I go out the next day its still the same only now when i let off the clutch it just dies. I'm not an auto mechanic expert by any means any car work i have done is just self taught as needed diving in and figuring it out myself.
I did do the Cv axle on the passenger side last year i bought the one from O' Reilly auto parts. I know its the cheap one and probably a no no. Could this be my cv axle? Did my clutch go out? It moves through all the gears except reverse when the clutch is depressed. Could it be my transmission?
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So for the last few days, every now and then when I turn on the car it just revs/accelerates on its own. The rpms will be at about 2k and stay that way whether I'm in neutral or in gear. Then when I go to turn the car off and back on it again it doesn't start. It'll sound like it wants to turn but it doesn't until I let it rest for a few minutes and then it's back to normal.
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I have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
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My car will not leave first gear until the car reaches 60 x 100 revs 9 has heated up. After leaving first gear it shifts smoothly so I doubt its the transmission fluid, plus it's over 14 thousand miles and I was told not to change the fluid for the transmission. I think it could be a bad solenoid because when I bought the car the dealership wouldn't let me take it home until they installed a new one or else "it wouldn't leave first gear" if so witch solenoid would that be so I could replace it.
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I am experiencing a weird noise coming from my 1.8T AWP engine. Its kind of a buzzing, and it gets louder with higher revs. Unfortunately its hard to hear while driving as I have an exhaust on it, but in a confined space you can hear it clearly.
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Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
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My auto transmission is sticky at times. This usually happens after an hour of driving doesn't happen all the time. The gears start to change at high Rpms like 5 to 6k. It's real annoying. Otherwise the tranny is very smooth , like butter . Shifts into all gears.
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Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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So tonight my wife got off work at 7pm, she gives me a call and tells me she is on the side of the road. I was like wtf, what happened....anyways long story short I drive 30 miles out, by that time tow truck just arrived and flat beds the passat wagon to dealership.
So what my wife told me she got off work, drove about 2-3 miles down the road and then lost power and she pretty much came to a stop. Then she called me. Then tow truck came and towed it it dealer.
So issues I noticed, car starts fine, no engine lights on, but when you put in any gear, drive, reverse, sport mode etc. car does not move at all and engine just revs up. I'm think thing torque converter or something but really have no clue. Anyways tow truck tows car to dealer I start back up car and for f same car has power again can go forward, can go backwards! Yeah right, so I said let me see if I can drive around the block, so get in car start driving and then the power starts to fade and only drives about 100 feet before the lack of power happens and start to come to a stop. I did notice some slight grinding noise but by that time I wasn't moving anymore.
So we park in an open spot(had to push the beast) and then went home and here I sit and type my problem. What is going on and why all of a sudden without any notice this would happen. It has been a great car for us and we just had it in the dealer on Tuesday for oil change and they said everything looks good besides your rear pads are getting low... This just really sucks and couldn't of happened at a worse time. Just don't understand why the 2.0t transmission would do this all of a sudden. I pray that we don't need a new one replaced.
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It is difficult to explain (and google) but my 1.4 16V Golf 4 does this sometimes: while driving at a steady speed car jerks for a moment and revs drop quite much, a moment later it is fine. It feels like I had stepped on the brakes, but when I actually try that the revs won't drop as much. Like my engine seizes up for a fraction of a second but there is no noise. It has done that actually for 3 years, but it was really rare, about twice a year, but now I have had those jerks three days in a row.
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So today I was driving my car and everything was fine. I get to a freeway off ramp. I put it in first and it goes like normal I shift from first to second and then into third when i shifted into third, I hear a grind sound like I miss shifted or something. I continue on and when I get to a red light I go to take off in first and nothing...The car wont move!! I have the clutch all the way out and its in gear and nothing... I can have the car running and the clutch out and i can shift it in any gear and nothing happens. I have a spec stage one and an 8lbs smf in the car and before i could hear clutch chatter and now when i have the clutch out I don't hear anything? What is causing this?
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I have a mk4 jetta that I bought a couple of months ago it is a 1.8T 5speed and the last 2 days of driving it 3rd and 4th gear maintain in place like they should but when I try to give it gas the rpms skyrocket and the car does not move, it is like as if it is in neutral while still in gear....What the problem is?
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I have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
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Completely stock, no swap. No motor noise when I click the buttons on forward, back, up or down. Nothing. Everything looks connected under the seat but not entirely sure. Fuse 1 and 44 are good on the side of the dash. This is for a 2003 Wagon with GLX interior and most upgrades from the factory. I need to move the seat in order to remove the center console/radio cage as it's blocking the armrest nut.
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So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
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At times my windshield wipers stall halfway up my windshield or move really slowly. Other times absolutely fine, I already checked both battery terminals and niether were the issue. What's the best way to get to the wiper motor to check the connections. Or does it sound like a ground strap issue elsewhere on the car.
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