Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 VW Shut Off While On Freeway And Won't Start Ever Since
Apr 11, 2015
I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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I went out to my car this morning and the fans were both running full speed. That's before I even got to it then they carried on doing so when I started the car and still ran after I shut it off. I have stopped them by pulling the 30A battery top fuse for them but what has caused it and how I can fix it? Preferably not too expensively as I am moving house next month typically.
The car is a 2003 1.8t GTI with climatronics ....
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Was driving just a few hundred feet up the road to local mini mart. On the way home after pulling out of the shop, my battery light flickered once and twice before staying on. I circled around the block to see if it would go away, but it was still on when I parked in my driveway. I noticed a ticking noise in the engine bay, but decided to turn it off.
About 10 minutes later, I turned the car back on. Battery light still on, noise still evident in the bay. I popped the hood and it's coming by the serpentine belt. That seemed to be running fine over there and couldn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary. I went in the car to rev up the engine a bit and turn on my lights, and that's when the symptoms got weirder. My RPMs jumped to about 1,000 and stayed there (even when I let on the gas a bit); my blowers would work (but not the screen showing the temp); CD player turned off; and I got a cluster full of lights on my dash. The car would idol rough when turning lights on and off.
It eventually shut off, and now there is no crank or nothing. All lights still work, alarm works, but no turn over or clicking. I'm going to try and get it jumped when able to, but I'm not sure what the problem could be. I can't find the exact paperwork, but I had the alternator replaced at around 85,000 miles.
Car Specs:
2003 GTI VR6 24V
110,000 miles
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
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2004 gli , 1.8t , 136k , 6 speed
The car started misfiring after exiting the freeway, at the light it felt like it was gonna cut off. The brake pedal is stiff like the car is off. When it's idling is when it's most noticeable. It smoothed out after 2nd gear at like 35mph but still not right. The pedal thing has never happened before but I knew the sputtering was the coils, so I had it scanned and sure enough. 5 codes.random misfire.. random misfire all four cylinders.. so I bought 4 and replaced the old ones.. Changed the Sparks as well. No change.. The cel came back on..still idling rough.. What it could be.
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
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I've got an 03 Passat with 110,000mi on the 2.8L 30v and 01V. I've had this intermittent problem for a while. Occasionally while cruising on the freeway, the car would start to buck, feeling like the trans was slipping in and out of gear, but rpms would stay constant as far as I remember. Also, the ASR light would come on and flash. The car would continue bucking until I pulled over and shut the car off. When I restart, all is fine again.
The dealer pulled codes and only found a EVAP canister purge valve code. They fixed that and said that should take care of the aformentioned problem. I didn't think the code was related to my problem and sure enough, it wasn't. My car still does it, but now there seems to be more related to this problem.
I was driving the other day on the freeway again, this time with my cruise control on. Everything seemed fine until the accelerator pedal dropped to the floor and the car began to accelerate on its own. I quickly switched off the cruise and braked to slow the car down to my original speed, and then the car continued bucking as it always had, now with the ASR light fully on. Pulled over again to restart, problem gone again. What gives? Went to have codes read again and nothing is found.
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Okay, so I was looking for a parking spot and my car just shut down. I didn't think much of this at the time because i was rushing to take a class for school. On my way home I was on the freeway going 75mph and it SHUT down again. So what happened was it was in drive and the the motor just stopped running and I costed in the gore zone. So I tried to start it and it wouldn't, I gave a few seconds and removed the key then tried again and it started. when I got closer to my house it happened again and this time through a CEL and the oils pressure and battery light were flashing and on the screen it said "STOP!" I did the same thing and got it to my house. Whats going on????
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My car is a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t. It has 223000 miles, yet other than normal maintenance it has never had any real issues since I have had it. However, maybe a week and a half ago when I got up to go to work the car wouldn't start. It would turn over, but would never actually start. When I got home from work later in the afternoon I tried again and it was fine. It's been doing this and progressively getting worse ever since.
If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.
I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:
P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.
So far I have replaced both the Secondary air injector relay and ECM relay, pulled and checked every fuse in the car, cleaned the battery terminals, and am about to go out and check every ground.
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Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
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My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
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I have a 2003 vw golf gti. and It will crank but it wont start. I recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay.
There is no voltage at fuse 28 so I jumped the relay ( using both big pins ) and still no voltage at the fuse. however when its jumped the fuel pump actually runs. Still nothing
I am beginning to think it may be a spark issue but the fuel pump doesn't make a noise unless the relay is jumped.
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My car was running fine and it was due for a new oil change so I decided to do it myself. I changed the oil and oil filter and I started my car after I did this and it ran fine. I shut my car off and a few minutes later when I went to start it again, it cranked over and was sputtering. I tried again and now it won't even sputter. It will just turn over. Also the car is a 03 vw gti vr6 with 126xxx miles on it.
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
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What this sound is / caused by? This is my Dad's Golf, the sound subsides after the engine warms up a little. It runs fine, power and all. I took off the top timing cover, nope that wasn't it, no rubbing as the sound persisted. Thinking maybe an injector o-ring? The car has 130,000 miles and change on it.
[URL] ....
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I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
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I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
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