Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Take A While To Start And Wouldn't Rev Over 3k RPM While Driving
Sep 1, 2014
Just as I was talking up my 03 jetta with 250,000 miles to a buddy, it developed a problem. It started to take a while to start, and wouldn't rev over 3000 while driving. (like all the other posts, would just die at 3k). So, I installed new Crank and Cam position sensors. Started up...a little stumble...running. Take it for a drive and able to rev over 3k rpm. Now it just spits, sputters, dies, stumbles.....push in clutch, engine dies....???? I know i will have to probably take it to VW for them to check it out....
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My wife drives a 2002 Golf 2.0L with about 214k on it at the moment. It runs really well and I'd like to keep it that way. Last week she told me that the car wouldn't start sometimes and that she would hear a buzzing noise when she turned the key. If she turned the key off and then on again the car would start. The problem was occurring more consistently as time went by and sometimes she would have to try to start the car four or five times.
I took a look at the car and her description was correct. The 53 relay under the dash was buzzing once the clutch was depressed and the key was turned, but the car wouldn't start. I took out the relay and put it back in and the car started fine. I swapped it with the other 53 relay in the panel (dual horns), and started the car a bunch of time with no problem. Then I gave the car back to her to drive to work. Everything was fine for a while.But now the problem is starting to return.
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I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
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03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
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I was driving today and my cruise control light came on and wouldn't turn off. i vagcom'd the car and a code came up which was:
Cruise control switch (E45): Implausable signal
P1569 - 35 - 10 ---- Intermittent
I tried clearing it but it would but the light remains on. I noticed that when i hit the RES button on the stalk, the light goes away and when that when I scanned the car and held the RES button the code would come back. My cruise control also stopped working.
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....
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I have a VW 2003 VR6 jetta and lately I need to turn my key 2-3 times to start the car. Then while driving during daytime hours its stalls after 30 - 40mins. With EPC light on. I also have an engine light on.
Code P1151. I noticed a small exhaust noise coming from my middle pipe and my engine is very hot after driving for 30 -45 mins after it stalls. It does start back up after 10 minutes but stalls later.
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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Took my 03 envoy that is having some voltage/electrical issues to get tested! Everything checked out fine! But then in the afternoon after sitting in the sun I went to start it an when I turned the key all that happened was the check engine light came on and nothing else. Would not turn over nothing, not a sound! That was about 4pm..... Now I got home and at 10pm went out to check it and it started right up.
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I was doing about 65 going up a 7% incline and all of a sudden no power from motor shifted down and kept trying tell 2nd gear and power hit and started accelerating again I know I have a p0420 has kicked on and off with the cluster but could that make this happen?! If not what can make my engine or other parts do this... 2.0 2003 Jetta....
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I have an issue that I have yet to figure out. While the car is in motion there is a rumble from what sounds like the front driver side. I've replaced the wheel bearing and CV axle already. The noise seems to have gotten better but its still there. The noise will worsen when turning left and pretty much disappear when turning right.
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Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
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I have 22000 miles and this never happened on the car before wonder if it has anything to do with the recall, had the fuel system recall done about 200 miles ago. Other day after fueling car wouldn't start, also new "feature" to this car. Hope the recall didn't do something bad, I tried to reset it by reseating the cap, but warning comes on as soon as I drive it.
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Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...
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On my way to work this morning check engine light came on, diagnosis came up with 2 codes p2181 cooling system and p1516 intake changeover. went to leave work car started then died after about 5 seconds then wouldn't start. as of right now I am thinking that it might be the coolant temp sensor? That's not letting it start? the past week it has been getting bad gas mileage and a low idle.
Mods done giac chip now set at stock setting
APR exhaust and intake
107,xxx miles
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My car wouldn't turn start today at school The ignition would "click" continuously but the car wouldn't turn over. Battery is fully charger and didn't start with a jump either. Alternator issue??
Anyways, me and a buddy tried to push start it in 2nd gear a couple times with no luck... is this even possible with our cars?
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My 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
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My car is a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t. It has 223000 miles, yet other than normal maintenance it has never had any real issues since I have had it. However, maybe a week and a half ago when I got up to go to work the car wouldn't start. It would turn over, but would never actually start. When I got home from work later in the afternoon I tried again and it was fine. It's been doing this and progressively getting worse ever since.
If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.
I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:
P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.
So far I have replaced both the Secondary air injector relay and ECM relay, pulled and checked every fuse in the car, cleaned the battery terminals, and am about to go out and check every ground.
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