Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Slight Growl Bearing Sound At Idle?
Aug 13, 2014
Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
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My wife just got his car and she loves it!. its a 1.8t 5 speed. Runs and drives awesome. She had 2 new beetles before this one with the same motor but they both had 2 1/2 exhaust from the turbo back. The jetta will be done soon but it has this slight growl when its idling sometimes. Doesn't seem like its every time or may be it seems more when its warmed up. We had just changed the timing belt and tensioner and water pump but we did it 2 days after we got it so I am not sure if it did it before or not.
Kinda sounds like a bad needle bearing where when you spin it and can feel little bumps in it...don't know if that makes sense or not. You can kind of feel it when your sitting in it but its hard to say because we just got it. I don't remember the beetles doing it though but may be the exhaust kinda made it less noticeable. It did have a code about exhaust something bank 1?? I am thinking the cat might be bad or the o2 sensors. i have more sensors im gonna try but when i do the exhaust I know the light will be on anyway.
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I have been having towing with the X. I have been getting a growl lately sounds like the front left wheel bearing. Today I jacked it up and did the wiggle text. I have a very slight wiggle in both wheels. Is a slight wiggle normal? I know the bearing on the left is more than likely gone as the growl goes away when I jerk the steering wheel. But I haven't heard any noise from the right side yet.
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On my mk7 manual, I'm getting a slight growly noise when I shift upwards, mostly noticeable from 1 to 2, a bit less from 2 to 3, and almost none from there up. Nothing when I downshift.
It's almost like a DSG fart, but much subtler. Happens for like a split second, just when I release the clutch, as if it the engine is revving up right when the clutch is engaging. But I know it's not engine related, because my RPM remains steady. Can it be the clutch slipping a bit before it fully locks? Not even sure if that's even a thing.
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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1.8T Car only has 73k on it.? When I am sitting at a stop I can hear a vibration sound coming from the engine bay. It goes away as soon as RPMs hit about 2000. My best guess is old, worn out engine mounts.
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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2011 stock gti. Was fine yesterday before work, then after work I noticed it sounded a little bit louder, and I hear the exhaust growl when I let off the gas. Car feels a little bit different too. Slight vibration under my feet it seems.
No codes or anything. I also noticed this morning when I pulled into the driveway over the little lip at the front of the driveway the exhaust made a sort of sputtering sound.
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I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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Ok, so my '02 has dual alt from factory and lately I have noticed a "growl" only at idle. Upon further diagnosis it is coming from the belt. So I replaced the tensioner, upper idler, and belt seeing as how they didn't look in good shape. Still there. I noticed from looking under the truck where the belt comes off the crank to the lower idler there is a lot (2" or so) belt *flutter* (slap/slop) but as soon as you give it any fuel it smooths out and the noise goes away. Let it idle and the noise comes back with the belt slap/flutter. For those with dual alternators, look at your belt from under the truck and see if yours is smooth at idle. Now I do notice it doesn't make the noise for the first few minutes of running. Next I am going to try bypassing the lower alternator and lower idler to try and pinpoint the prob.
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Last year around christmas i replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing no issues with that side. pass side wheel bearing started to growl changed it out test drove went smooth took the car for a 100 mile drive about 50 miles in and a little in town driving noticed a hum drove back at 55 mph humming the whole way i would turn to the right any amount and its would quiet up like nothing wrong straighten out or turn the wheels left it would hum figured i didn't press the bearing straight jacked it up to tear down shook the pass tire no excessive play went and shook drivers side noticed the 3 bolts that hold the strut to the mounting plate sheared off any thought i know i gotta get that bolted up before i diagnose any further think a free floating strut would sound like a wheel bearing?
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Car specs:
- 2003 VW GTI VR6 24v
- 100,000 miles
- Clutch replaced at about 80,000 miles
A few weeks ago, I noticed a very slight noise coming from my shift boot. The noise wasn't a grinding or clanking noise; it was more of a noise that sounded like keys jingling or coins rattling (the best description I could come up with).
Anyways, it would only occur on acceleration. When the car is in neutral or shifting between gears, there is no noise. It lasts generally for about 3-5 miles, and then goes away. I haven't had any change or problems in shifting.
Not sure if something is loose in my boot, or if the linkage may be off, or if I should maybe change out the gear oil (since the noise goes away after the car is warmed up).
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I have an 03 wolfsburg and sometimes when i have the heat on ill hear this weird noise coming from the vent, i turn the heat off and wait a bit and turn it on and its gone. its very random, what might this be?
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1999.5 gls vr6 ... 113k on the clock
Timing chain hasn't been changed yet .. Has new spark plugs & wires ..
Water pump was replaced & pulleys look fine ..
No CEL .. Yes there's oil in it.
I get a knocking sound at idle and it has absolutely no rhyme or rhythm which makes me think it's not a valve or rod(wouldn't that make a constant noise?). The sound comes from the passenger side floor board. Only happens at idle, and if you rev the engine, it will go away. Even if you don't rev the engine some times it goes away then comes back. Sometimes I hear it when i pull up to a red light real loud & most of the time the engine purrs like a kitten. I even sat in the car and told my dad when it was making the knocking/ticking noise and he went all over the top and bottom end with a mechanical stethoscope & heard absolutely nothing. Am I missing something obvious?
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New, 2 month old 2015 CC, gas 4x4 with standard bed. At 50-55 I have a rolling vibration, or it can even be explained as a slight growl. Seems worse since I upgraded to 285/75/18 Toyo AT's and new wheels. If i speed up to about 60, goes away. If I pop it down to 5th gear, it seems to go away, however, I need to try this a few more times to make certain.
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I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
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I have a 2003 golf gti 1.8th awp with 160k miles. I was due for a change so I grab castrol edge 0w40 the euro formula like I normally do but the stp filter was on sale with it so i used that. a week later the low oil pressure light comes on when the cars fully warmed up but only at idle I can review it above 1000 and it'll go away. I decided to change the pressure sensor sense it's cheap and easy nothing. I also went to a Bosch filter which I had before same thing light comes on only at idle.
So I decided to drop the pan and clean the pick up there was some crap in it wasn't to over clogged. I did little notice plastic piece surgery in the pan but when I first got the car the dipstick was deteriorating and I know a few little prices fell in there. Also noticing a fairly clean looking motor and oil pump so I don't think sludge is a issue. Anyway I decided to try mobile 1 0w40 euro formula and I read k&ns 3001 filter is a good oversized filter. Anyway light still comes on only at idle, what next?
Addition info the the car it's a stage 2 apr tune with euros ports pcv hoses turbo inlet pipe 42dd's catless exhaust recently had a leak in radiator so replaced that and the fuel pump went out within the last month or two
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Is it normal for my 2003 Jetta 1.8T to have trouble reaching operating temps from a cold start when letting it idle in the driveway with outside temps of 30F?
I recently had my thermostat replaced because my coolant temps never reached operating temps even when driving on the freeway.
Now with the replaced thermostat it reaches close to 190 after around 10 minutes of driving but if I am starting a cold engine and stay idle in the drive way it will not heat up to 190 even after 10 minutes.
When I tried a cold start with just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes my check engine light came on giving me the P0118 code which I had before I changed my thermostat and a P0411 code.
After getting the thermostat changed I drove 100 miles to a destination and 100 miles back home the next day. A few days later I drove 22 miles to pick up a friend then 22 miles back without the check engine light coming on.
It was only when I let the car stay in idle from a cold start for 10 minutes that the check engine light came on and gave me the two error codes of P0118 and P0411.
Now I suspect the P0411 is from a leaking secondary air injection hose but the P0118 code confuses me as I switched out the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
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I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
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Wondering how I would take the A/C pulley off to change the bearing or fix the chirp squeal it is making.
I have spun this pulley by hand and it is the culprit making the noise.
It has an inner pulley and an outer pulley(belt pulley). Both spin freely and are not bound up. Just want the terrible noise to go away.
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