I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
View 7 RepliesI recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.
View 6 RepliesAfter about a 45 minute drive yesterday the EPC light came on, idle went up to 1200 rpm's and when I turned off the car it wouldn't turn on, just leaving the ignition for about 5-7 seconds is when the car finally started.
Today, again after a 45 minute drive the EPC light came on again, same symptoms, except that the car stalled and I had to turn the ignition again about 5-7 seconds for it to start. No other light is on, and the car would start fine after about half an hour rest with no EPC light.
Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
Vehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
View 2 RepliesCar was running fine, on the way home from work I noticed it having a loud squeal while accelerating, down shifting.
The car squealed all the way home fine, no power loss really no smoke no anything, I let the car sit for a little, warmed it up and decided to go to drive it around so I could diagnose the problem better.. While doing so now let me describe the sound.. it's like the sound when you go in reverse and back up, that winding sound.. that's what it sounded like.
Back to the story while driving to diagnose the problem more within 5 minutes it made a loud sound like an axle falling out almost on the passenger side of the engine, once I got out I could hear it more and more and looked under the car it looked wet and it looked like oil running down but also could of been something else I'm not sure.. I took a video [URL] .....
The car made it home safe and sound and parked but I don't know if my engine is done. To note I only saw one drip of oil come down while I was underneath of the car but shown in the video you can see where it looks wet was not there before I drove it.
I'm new to the VW family as a couple weeks ago I purchased a 2003 VR6 Jetta. So far I LOVE it and it's been by far my favorite car I've driven. About a week ago, I was visiting my parents back home (I'm a college student) and when I went to turn on my car to go back to school I received the alternator workshop message. I didn't want to take the risk so I took my sister's car back to school and my dad took my car into a local mechanic during the week.
Unfortunately, the mechanic we took the car too does not specialize in European cars (They're just a general mechanic/Ford dealership), but we didn't want to take the risk of driving a car with a potentially failing alternator to the closest VW mechanic (About 40 minutes away). The car was repaired and a new alternator added. All was going well, but I began to notice a slight "clunking" noise when first accelerating/lifting my foot off the brakes. I didn't think too much of it and it wasn't very loud nor severe. To me, it sounded like the interior plastic shifting when I moved.
Anyway, here I am a week later and I'm noticing a lot of noises that didn't exist before, including the clunk I just mentioned. I took a few audio recordings. (For the record, there is NO CEL or any dash lights currently on, thus why I'm not as concerned).
The first audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm driving the car around the parking lot in which I park my car here at school. It's mostly bumping gravel, but at the time of the recording I was driving very slow. You can hear a squeaking noise.
The second audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm revving the car while parked. Something I've noticed that it didn't used to do is rattle while idling ever so slightly (It's not audible in the recording), but in the recording you are able to hear a slight clunking noise.
I have a 03 jetta 1.8t and for as long as i can remember my rpms would always fluctuate whenever ever i was idling and then there would be sometimes where i would be accelerating and i would have no power and then all of a sudden it would kick in kinda jerky like. About a week ago tho for some reason my car would just all of a sudden die when i would come to a complete stop and it did it about 5 times that day but when it died it would start right back up fine. I've been having this problem for quit awhile.
I have gotten told maybe coilpacks, n75 valve, o2 sensor, MAF i ended up buying a can of sensor cleaner and cleaned out sensor but that doesn't look like it did the trick. i have also noticed when i drive her pretty hard sometimes the rpms will fluctuate a lot more frequently than normal there also times where when ever i start in 1st gear it doesn't feel like i have all the power have than usual and I've noticed it only feel like that in 1st and second gear sometimes.
I just bought my first R32 a few weeks ago, 100% stock and spotless with 75k miles on it, after about a week, the car started shaking when coasting (immediately after removing foot from the accelerator) around and above 50 mph. When it first started it was pulling to the left and shaking in the wheel, i went and had an alignment done and it seemed to only dull the shaking, the tires were alittle worn so i went and got all new tires and it has taken the shaking and pull completely out of the steering wheel, now only the car itself shakes, not while accelerating, only when i take my foot off the accelerator. I've been told everything from motor mounts to spark plugs
View 7 RepliesEngine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
My car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
View 2 RepliesMy stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
View 4 RepliesLeaving parking lights on. How long will it take to drain the battery enought that you cant start the car? Is there any type of auto-shut off in there?
Here is why I am asking:
It recently snowed up here in NY and I park on the street. I was thinking about leaving my parking lights on overnight so nobody (namely a plow) mistook my car for a snow drift. For those who dont know, the parking lights are left on by simply turning on the headlights and removing the key.
Currently own a 2001 vw golf gls 2.0 with 223000 kms on it. used specifically as a beater car. Noticed that it has all of a sudden started to make a creaking sound when it has run for a long period of time. Stops when you hit a speed of around 50 kms/hr.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
My 01 gti VR6 just started shaking pretty hard under acceleration on the front end. I'm guessing I snapped something or loosened something on launch. It was running fine on the way to the hardware store. Then I took off quickly because of oncoming traffic and suddenly it started shaking on the whole front end. I can feel it and see it from the wheel to the dashboard. It happens around 30 Mph. I picked up the car put it on jack stands and when the load is off the tires it doesn't seem to shake. Being that it happened so suddenly I am not leaning towards a bent rim or alignment. I don't see much wear to the dog mount underneath and the engine doesn't seem to rock much when revving or putting in gear so I'm not thinking much for broken engine mounts.
View 3 RepliesOkay, I'm driving 35mph and i feel this bad shake. I go to Les Schwab(bad choice) and they say wheel bearing. Okay so I replace both of them. After that, I'm stoked get in my car and same crap. Im pissed at this point so i am now thinking CV joint. but it could be the inner jv, in the tranny, or something else.
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