What this sound is / caused by? This is my Dad's Golf, the sound subsides after the engine warms up a little. It runs fine, power and all. I took off the top timing cover, nope that wasn't it, no rubbing as the sound persisted. Thinking maybe an injector o-ring? The car has 130,000 miles and change on it.
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The brake pedal on my Golf 4 GTI 132KW pulsates when I put my foot on the pedal going over uneven terrain without pushing the pedal in.
View 1 Replies2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
View 3 RepliesI am having an issue with my 2002 GTI 1.8T. I have tried searching for an answer to this, and found a couple things saying maybe it could be the secondary air pump but wanted to get more opinions before I go shell out money to chase this problem.
When I start up the car in the morning after having it sit overnight, the car does the normal thing where it increases rpm's to about 1100 to warm it up. During this a loud "whistling" noise can be heard. Once the car is warmed up a little bit, the rpm's decline to about 900, and the whistling sound goes away. When this happens though it almost sounds as if a valve or something is closing causing the noise to go away.
Also, I am unsure if this is related to this, sometimes when I am driving, I will be accelerating and the car seems to stop accelerating as strong as it was, boost goes down from around 8 or 9 psi to about 4 and I seem to lose power as if I had let off the gas some. When I put my foot further down the car accelerates harder again and boost goes back up.
I have already changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF sensor, and run the 3m 3 part engine cleaning kit through it.
I've got a 2003 Jetta with the 20v 1.8t, today I was driving along and when I slowed down coming into town, my car started making this sound that I can only describe as sounding like a tractor. It sounds like something is rattling under the valve cover.
Here's a video with the sound : [URL] ....
So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
View 2 Replies2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
Every time I press the brake pedal a buzzing sound can be heard. Every single time. Without fail. Moving or parked.
I just had the tranny rebuilt and it's possible something was broken or unplugged. I've done a search on google and can't find anything specific. I'm thinking something to do with ABS. Problem started a week ago when it came back from the rebuild.
I'll try to get a video and post. Was funny at first. Now it's annoying.
I recently bought a used 2003 jetta wagon with 159k. Is it normal to feel and hear a growling sound when the air cond is running and you stop for a red light. It's a 2.0 automatic jetta wagon. I never had a 4 cylinder automatic car and this is my first VW.
View 1 RepliesHere is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
My car is a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t. It has 223000 miles, yet other than normal maintenance it has never had any real issues since I have had it. However, maybe a week and a half ago when I got up to go to work the car wouldn't start. It would turn over, but would never actually start. When I got home from work later in the afternoon I tried again and it was fine. It's been doing this and progressively getting worse ever since.
If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.
I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:
P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.
So far I have replaced both the Secondary air injector relay and ECM relay, pulled and checked every fuse in the car, cleaned the battery terminals, and am about to go out and check every ground.
Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
View 10 RepliesMy Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
I have a 2003 vw golf gti. and It will crank but it wont start. I recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay.
There is no voltage at fuse 28 so I jumped the relay ( using both big pins ) and still no voltage at the fuse. however when its jumped the fuel pump actually runs. Still nothing
I am beginning to think it may be a spark issue but the fuel pump doesn't make a noise unless the relay is jumped.
My car was running fine and it was due for a new oil change so I decided to do it myself. I changed the oil and oil filter and I started my car after I did this and it ran fine. I shut my car off and a few minutes later when I went to start it again, it cranked over and was sputtering. I tried again and now it won't even sputter. It will just turn over. Also the car is a 03 vw gti vr6 with 126xxx miles on it.
View 24 RepliesI am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
Just as I was talking up my 03 jetta with 250,000 miles to a buddy, it developed a problem. It started to take a while to start, and wouldn't rev over 3000 while driving. (like all the other posts, would just die at 3k). So, I installed new Crank and Cam position sensors. Started up...a little stumble...running. Take it for a drive and able to rev over 3k rpm. Now it just spits, sputters, dies, stumbles.....push in clutch, engine dies....???? I know i will have to probably take it to VW for them to check it out....
View 6 RepliesI got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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