Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - P1425, P1435 Came On / Car Cut Off Power
Dec 29, 2015
My car started to cut off power at 4000 rpms and the epc light started coming on. then I left it parked in my garage over Christmas and I tried to start it. I came on and quickly turned off. now it wont start at all. it turns but wont fire. I'm in 3rd world Guatemala city and have spent lots of cash in different mechanic shops , and no one seems to be able to get it started. here are the codes from the numerous obd2 scans that we have performed:
P1425 Tank Ventilation Valve Short To Ground
P1435 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay Circuit Short To Ground
P1421 Secondary Air Injection Valve Circuit Short To Ground
P1118 O2S Sensor Heater Circuit Open Bank 1 Sensor 2
P1516 Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Circuit Open
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I have a Golf 1.8 t 2003 and when the car reaches 4000 rpm on 3rd gear it starts sputtering and can't go above that rpm. it sputters a bit on 2nd gear but at about 5000 rpm but it keeps accelerating. I couldn't try the other gears because i don't have a suitable to reach those speeds (traffic laws speed limits). I have noticed a slight tear on the connection between the hose from the air filter and the T hose. could that be the problem.
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I was doing about 65 going up a 7% incline and all of a sudden no power from motor shifted down and kept trying tell 2nd gear and power hit and started accelerating again I know I have a p0420 has kicked on and off with the cluster but could that make this happen?! If not what can make my engine or other parts do this... 2.0 2003 Jetta....
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2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
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So i just recently purchased this car and about two weeks in I CEL turns on and the car just doesn't seem to drive like it did when i first brought it home. I don't know much about forced induction cars but the from watching the boost gauge, it seems to flutter when accelerating and just doesn't pick up like it should i feel. First thing I could think of is a boost leak but like I said, don't know anything about these cars.
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I recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.
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I have an '03 gti vr6 with a miss fire problem. Once it's warmed up is when I notice the problem. Just changed all the spark plugs and now I'm lost.
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Had this noise before and can narrow my search for what I need to do to resolve it.
2003 Golf 1.8t, 96k miles.
[URL].................
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I have a 2003 Jetta Gli with a VR6 manual transmission 6 speed. So the other night I am pulling into this store parking lot and all of a sudden my car is just rolling its still in gear and running but when i push on the gas it just revs the motor i thought i was in neutral for a second but I wasn't so I jump out and push it into a parking spot.
Car is running but when i put it into gear and let off the clutch it just revs. so i have i towed to my house it was late so i decided to look in the morning.
So I go out the next day its still the same only now when i let off the clutch it just dies. I'm not an auto mechanic expert by any means any car work i have done is just self taught as needed diving in and figuring it out myself.
I did do the Cv axle on the passenger side last year i bought the one from O' Reilly auto parts. I know its the cheap one and probably a no no. Could this be my cv axle? Did my clutch go out? It moves through all the gears except reverse when the clutch is depressed. Could it be my transmission?
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My car is a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t. It has 223000 miles, yet other than normal maintenance it has never had any real issues since I have had it. However, maybe a week and a half ago when I got up to go to work the car wouldn't start. It would turn over, but would never actually start. When I got home from work later in the afternoon I tried again and it was fine. It's been doing this and progressively getting worse ever since.
If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.
I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:
P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.
So far I have replaced both the Secondary air injector relay and ECM relay, pulled and checked every fuse in the car, cleaned the battery terminals, and am about to go out and check every ground.
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I own a 2003 Jetta that is standard. I was driving to school today and the engine just cut off. It was acting as if I had stalled out but it was in neutral and the clutch was all the way down. I've also had problems with my car not wanting to start. If I press on the gas once or twice that usually fixes that problem.
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I have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
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Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
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I just recently bought a 03 Jetta and it doesn't shift until it is warmed up, once warmed up it runs great. I was told it needed a transmission change but when taking it to Aamco they said it needed a valve body. I read that it could be the solenoids that are causing the issue. Should I replace the whole valve body or just the solenoids? What is the main components in the valve body?
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My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
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So I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
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03 manual goes into limp mode with ac on like turbo has no power and wont go past 65. No engine light comes on though. Does engine light have to come on to go into limp mode??
I don't have Vag Com. But i'm familiar with diesels. Maybe something is losing vacuum when a/c comes on because i know the ducts and all that work off vacuum in most cars. Does the ducts for TDi work off vacuum also??? Maybe not enough vacuum going to VNT activator?? I'm clueless with these cars.
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I have a 2003 vw golf gti. and It will crank but it wont start. I recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay.
There is no voltage at fuse 28 so I jumped the relay ( using both big pins ) and still no voltage at the fuse. however when its jumped the fuel pump actually runs. Still nothing
I am beginning to think it may be a spark issue but the fuel pump doesn't make a noise unless the relay is jumped.
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8 5Speed. With issues.
The problem that I first had (and have always had since): While driving under 30mph but at random times, my ASR / ESP light and engine light will come on and my car will lurch and lose power (I can't go above 20mp at that point this is the limp mode that traction control puts you in I think). I have to pull over and restart my car. And then the ASR / ESP light is gone and the engine light stays on for a day or so. After restarting my car everything seems to function fine.
My car would also chug a bit if I didn't let it warm up in the morning it acted as though it would die. After sitting for a minute it would be fine.
My mechanic initially thought there might be an air flow issue. He found a hose that was cracked at the end but said I didn't really need to replace it. He taped it up and used a clamp to keep in place. I have no (ok little) doubt that it is air tight.
When the problem continued he thought it might be my MAF sensor. He had a used one and replaced mine with it. It seemed to work, I didn't have the problem again for some time. But it eventually came back.
Also, I started to find that when I came to a stop light my car would idle roughly. If I put the car in park it was perfectly fine. Later, I had an even more serious problem. My car needed to warm up for about 10 minutes before it would shift out first. After plenty of internet searches on sites like this, everything pointed to the N92 solenoid. I purchased all 9 solenoids online and had someone replace them. That seems to have fixed my shifting out of first problem.
I still had the ASR / ESP issue though. So I bought a new MAF and replaced that myself (very easy). I was positive that would be then end of my problems. But nope no change.
Recently I also find that if I slow down quickly, sometimes my car just strait up dies. After restarting all is well.
So if this isn't a MAF issue, what are the other likely culprits? Vacuum leak somewhere? How much would you expect to pay to have that diagnosed (I think they have machines that can test everything and locate points of failure)? Air-flow meter? Transmission control unit? I have heard that they are relatively cheap to replace Engine control unit?
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I have a 2003 golf gti 1.8th awp with 160k miles. I was due for a change so I grab castrol edge 0w40 the euro formula like I normally do but the stp filter was on sale with it so i used that. a week later the low oil pressure light comes on when the cars fully warmed up but only at idle I can review it above 1000 and it'll go away. I decided to change the pressure sensor sense it's cheap and easy nothing. I also went to a Bosch filter which I had before same thing light comes on only at idle.
So I decided to drop the pan and clean the pick up there was some crap in it wasn't to over clogged. I did little notice plastic piece surgery in the pan but when I first got the car the dipstick was deteriorating and I know a few little prices fell in there. Also noticing a fairly clean looking motor and oil pump so I don't think sludge is a issue. Anyway I decided to try mobile 1 0w40 euro formula and I read k&ns 3001 filter is a good oversized filter. Anyway light still comes on only at idle, what next?
Addition info the the car it's a stage 2 apr tune with euros ports pcv hoses turbo inlet pipe 42dd's catless exhaust recently had a leak in radiator so replaced that and the fuel pump went out within the last month or two
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I bought a 3" "Godsnow" catback exhaust off of ebay to experiment (and i needed a new exhaust since my old one was wrecked and I was low on funds). I did alot of research before i made the purchase and took advice from Slimjimmn, a guy who did the same thing. I talked to him and he seemed pretty happy with his purchase. During the video I just rev the car up and i did notice it slightly shooting flames, something i didnt really notice previously. Im not sure exactly if its unburned fuel or a rich condition but thats not the code my CEL is currently throwing (coolant issues).
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