Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Only Starts When Driver Side Is Closed
Mar 14, 2015
So after the long saga of trying to get my 03gti VR6 running, I have come across the STRANGEST behavior I have ever seen in a car. Here's a little background. Two weeks ago driving in a snowstorm my car started sputtering and then died. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Towed it to my buddies house (he's a master tech for Lexus) and tried to figure out what was going on. It wasn't throwing any codes. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't fix anything. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the door. So I replaced the fuel pump. Now it primes when you open the door. Got it started, but it wouldn't stay running for more than 10 seconds, it was acting like it was running out of gas. Even tried disconnectig the battery and touched the pos and neg together. Still to no avail.
After a week of trying to figure it out, I tried starting it with the door closed. Now the damn thing runs. BUT. Here's the strange thing. It will only run if the drivers door is closed. If you open the door, it kills the power to the fuel pump. If you leave the door open, it'll eventually die after roughly 10'secs. If you get out and close the door, it'll stay running. I'm guessing when you close the door it starts sending power to the fuel pump again. Everything else works. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, ect. The local vw shop in town said it might be a bad door switch or the CCM. But the lights come on when you open the door and go off when you shut it. Fuel pump primes when you open the door.
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I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
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My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
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I have an issue that I have yet to figure out. While the car is in motion there is a rumble from what sounds like the front driver side. I've replaced the wheel bearing and CV axle already. The noise seems to have gotten better but its still there. The noise will worsen when turning left and pretty much disappear when turning right.
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A months or so ago, after turning off my car I noticed a loud buzzing noise coming from the drivers-side lower firewall area. I cranked the car up and the buzzing stopped immediately. The problem began as intermittent but now within 2 minutes of turning my car the buzzing noise always starts, and runs my battery dead! I have taken my car to 2 local shops that have good reputations and they both began guessing and throwing parts at the problem to no avail my last resort is a dealership but it is 100 miles away and I'm not sure if they would do any better. I feel like this is something simple that an expert should have no problem diagnosing.
I have been searching around the internet and never seem to find someone with the exact same problem - until today!
[URL]
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Could this a door open/close sensor? Where is it located?
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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We have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited Edition. The problem started when the rear diver side door window stopped working. we took apart the door and saw that the cable was all twisted. We found the part at a junkyard and replaced it. Window worked. We closed the door and didn't think twice. A few hours later we tried to open the door and it's stuck. Both inside and outside handles move but nothing happens. The door won't open at all, what to do. We obviously can't get the door off without it opening. What may be causing this??
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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i have a strange leak under my driverside, im not sure if its an oil leak or what.
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Got a mk4 golf tdi 51 plate i have noticed water in drivers foot well.
Dried out the carpet and underlay siliconed the bonnet release cable gromet and the electrical box next to it. the drains on both sides under the scuttle panel are clear. 1 week later the water is back again i noticed when i washed the car that there was foam on the top of the scuff panel on the in side of the car and on the seat adjuster.
Is my door seal gone? There is no water anywhere else in the car just at the drivers side foot well. at the wear pad area under the pedals. 3 door no sun roof.....
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I left my the car sitting for a week out in heavy rain and came back to find that the driver side floor was soaked. After searching around I seem to have found the entry point. It seems like all of the water is pouring in from my hood release lever area which I find strange. I put a towel down last night during two hours of rain and came back to find the towel almost fully soaked through. I read other threads on this but the results were inconclusive. Could it be the lower or upper windshield seals? Door seals? Another problem I'm having is water leaking from my dome light buttons after a heavy rain. I assume this is a problem with the sunroof seal, but whenever I search around it feels dry?
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I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
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I just shaved my hatch on my gti I am using a gas door popper to open the hatch and it works good my question is that when the hatch is closed I have the light on the dash saying the hatch is open how do I get rid of it what do I have to do.
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Have a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
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My 2 door Golf has an issue.
Door closes, latches, door switch is activated (no chime, no interior lights on, all seems normal.)
From the outside it is not sitting flush to the body. From the inside I can hear a lot of road noise.
I inspected the hinges, weather stripping, door jamb, no obvious problems. I have slammed the door and pressed very firmly. At best I can get it closed, but I can pull it back 'open' very easily.
Sounds like I have a faulty door latch but need to confirm this before I start tearing into it??
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As I was loading a bag into the back of my GTI, I noticed water running down the drivers side. It seems to be coming out of where the driver's side back seat belt holder is. It's leaking down into the little compartment as well. Don't know the extent of the damage yet as I haven't had any time to look, The interior ceiling of the car is dry. Leaking into the side compartment as well...
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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I started to notice a slight vibration coming from my front end on the drivers side last week and now is pretty loud. It increases with acceleration, fades slightly when turning left, and goes away almost entirely when turning right. Tie rods seem fine. The inner and outer cv boots are torn but have been that way for some time.
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Found some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
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