Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Low Oil Pressure Only At Idle
Mar 27, 2016
I have a 2003 golf gti 1.8th awp with 160k miles. I was due for a change so I grab castrol edge 0w40 the euro formula like I normally do but the stp filter was on sale with it so i used that. a week later the low oil pressure light comes on when the cars fully warmed up but only at idle I can review it above 1000 and it'll go away. I decided to change the pressure sensor sense it's cheap and easy nothing. I also went to a Bosch filter which I had before same thing light comes on only at idle.
So I decided to drop the pan and clean the pick up there was some crap in it wasn't to over clogged. I did little notice plastic piece surgery in the pan but when I first got the car the dipstick was deteriorating and I know a few little prices fell in there. Also noticing a fairly clean looking motor and oil pump so I don't think sludge is a issue. Anyway I decided to try mobile 1 0w40 euro formula and I read k&ns 3001 filter is a good oversized filter. Anyway light still comes on only at idle, what next?
Addition info the the car it's a stage 2 apr tune with euros ports pcv hoses turbo inlet pipe 42dd's catless exhaust recently had a leak in radiator so replaced that and the fuel pump went out within the last month or two
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I bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
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I am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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I just finished installing a new clutch kit on my 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 1.8 and I have absolutely no pressure on the clutch pedal, I am pretty sure I installed everything correctly. How do you bleed the clutch lines, how do you know if the slave cylinder is bad. When i push the clutch pedal it just goes to the floor with absolutely no return.
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Is it normal for my 2003 Jetta 1.8T to have trouble reaching operating temps from a cold start when letting it idle in the driveway with outside temps of 30F?
I recently had my thermostat replaced because my coolant temps never reached operating temps even when driving on the freeway.
Now with the replaced thermostat it reaches close to 190 after around 10 minutes of driving but if I am starting a cold engine and stay idle in the drive way it will not heat up to 190 even after 10 minutes.
When I tried a cold start with just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes my check engine light came on giving me the P0118 code which I had before I changed my thermostat and a P0411 code.
After getting the thermostat changed I drove 100 miles to a destination and 100 miles back home the next day. A few days later I drove 22 miles to pick up a friend then 22 miles back without the check engine light coming on.
It was only when I let the car stay in idle from a cold start for 10 minutes that the check engine light came on and gave me the two error codes of P0118 and P0411.
Now I suspect the P0411 is from a leaking secondary air injection hose but the P0118 code confuses me as I switched out the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
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I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
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Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
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I have a 1.8t and it has the dreadful low pressure issue, not quite sure if I have sludge or not but i've run some sea foam through it earlier to clean (I'm aware that sea foam is a solvent) and am going to drop the pan, clean it out and replace the pump and pickup and take care of all of it in one go. I plan on using the felpro 2.slow gasket instead of gasket sealant but my question is, how do I remove the tension off of the oil pump chain to remove the pump? i'm pretty new to Volkswagens so don't be to rough.
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the oil pressure light comes on for a year now I will pop on, on hot days, when I go into low rpm like coming off the high way or stuck in traffic. I changed the op switch and put 10w40 in with no luck.
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stop oil pressure light will come on at 1800 to 2000 rmp i just changed the oil to full synthetic now i see the oil light come on at 3000 rpm i changed the oil pump and sending unit and the car sounds good no rattles what could be the problem ?? its been doing this for 2 years now
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So I'm having some problems with the oil pressure warning light beeping at me. First time it came on I stopped immeadietly, checked the oil and it was fine. (I just changed it when I got it) so I started it up again and it was fine for a few days. Then it came on again Real quick then went off. Now it comes on once or twice every trIp. I've replaced the switch already but it was still coming on so I installed an oil pressure gauge and I've confirmed my suspicions that the engine is indeed not loosing pressure. It sits at about 30ish at idle and goes up to aboit 50to 60 while driving 2-3k rpm. Yet the Damn oil light keeps blIbking. I'm assuming it has a wiring problem. Is there a way to shut this up or do I have to trace wires til I find the prob
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I got a feeling of dread when that light came on, luckily I was a block from home so I shut it off and pushed it home. I had a local VW mechanic come look at it the next morning, only the light wasn't on anymore there is a loud humming coming from the top of the engine, the head as it were, as if high RPM, but no clanking or metal on metal grinding. Does it spell game over?
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I have a 2006 golf mk4 GTI 1.8t and I've recently been having trouble with my low oil pressure light coming on. So the light will only come on when the engine Is hot and drops below 2k rpm but ONLY under 2k RPM. Why this is happening is my oil pump going bad.
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I just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
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My oil pressure light is blinking and there is a faint smell of burning oil. I recently had an oil change after letting my car sit for 5 months after the oil pan was replaced. I have checked oil levels and it is just right. I have asked around and everyone comes up with a different answer but they also say they are guessing due to lack of experience with VW's. The light only comes on when the car is moving. When idling, everything appears to be fine.
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I have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
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Im having problems with my brakes mainly being pedal pressure. It's really really soft and has no bite till near the bottom which could be due to the res being low on fluid since both rear calipers seem to be leaking from the handbrake mechanism. When I got my car safetied they fixed my handbrake but I think they put the adjuster to tight cause I felt more rub then what I thought was normal but could be completely wrong. Not to mention this starting happening the day after I got it safetied
the handbrake bracket didn't retract like the other side but since then I loosened the compensator and pulled both side handbrake lines off and retracted the handbrake bracket by hand so now it looks like the right side.
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