Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Jerk When Accelerating / RPMs Would Always Fluctuate
Apr 15, 2015
I have a 03 jetta 1.8t and for as long as i can remember my rpms would always fluctuate whenever ever i was idling and then there would be sometimes where i would be accelerating and i would have no power and then all of a sudden it would kick in kinda jerky like. About a week ago tho for some reason my car would just all of a sudden die when i would come to a complete stop and it did it about 5 times that day but when it died it would start right back up fine. I've been having this problem for quit awhile.
I have gotten told maybe coilpacks, n75 valve, o2 sensor, MAF i ended up buying a can of sensor cleaner and cleaned out sensor but that doesn't look like it did the trick. i have also noticed when i drive her pretty hard sometimes the rpms will fluctuate a lot more frequently than normal there also times where when ever i start in 1st gear it doesn't feel like i have all the power have than usual and I've noticed it only feel like that in 1st and second gear sometimes.
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So I have a 2.0 jetta and I'm having this problem where my rpms fluctuate at idle and sometimes the car dies unless I give it gas.but when I'm driving if I'm not in gear and stop it sometimes dies.
I'm getting 5 codes : P0445, P0135, P0037, P0418, P1473
I checked all my grounds I changed the 02 sensor on the manifold checked for cut wires and nothing ...
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
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Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
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2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
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Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
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I was driving earlier and some dickhead wouldn't stop tailgating me. I brake checked him and he wouldn't back off so I got pissed and floored it. Didn't watch my rpms and I felt it give like I hit a rev limiter maybe? I'm hoping that's what it was, it was like an instant loss of power for a brief second. Just was curious that I didn't brake anything. Driving a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. Manual.
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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Car was running fine, on the way home from work I noticed it having a loud squeal while accelerating, down shifting.
The car squealed all the way home fine, no power loss really no smoke no anything, I let the car sit for a little, warmed it up and decided to go to drive it around so I could diagnose the problem better.. While doing so now let me describe the sound.. it's like the sound when you go in reverse and back up, that winding sound.. that's what it sounded like.
Back to the story while driving to diagnose the problem more within 5 minutes it made a loud sound like an axle falling out almost on the passenger side of the engine, once I got out I could hear it more and more and looked under the car it looked wet and it looked like oil running down but also could of been something else I'm not sure.. I took a video [URL] .....
The car made it home safe and sound and parked but I don't know if my engine is done. To note I only saw one drip of oil come down while I was underneath of the car but shown in the video you can see where it looks wet was not there before I drove it.
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I'm new to the VW family as a couple weeks ago I purchased a 2003 VR6 Jetta. So far I LOVE it and it's been by far my favorite car I've driven. About a week ago, I was visiting my parents back home (I'm a college student) and when I went to turn on my car to go back to school I received the alternator workshop message. I didn't want to take the risk so I took my sister's car back to school and my dad took my car into a local mechanic during the week.
Unfortunately, the mechanic we took the car too does not specialize in European cars (They're just a general mechanic/Ford dealership), but we didn't want to take the risk of driving a car with a potentially failing alternator to the closest VW mechanic (About 40 minutes away). The car was repaired and a new alternator added. All was going well, but I began to notice a slight "clunking" noise when first accelerating/lifting my foot off the brakes. I didn't think too much of it and it wasn't very loud nor severe. To me, it sounded like the interior plastic shifting when I moved.
Anyway, here I am a week later and I'm noticing a lot of noises that didn't exist before, including the clunk I just mentioned. I took a few audio recordings. (For the record, there is NO CEL or any dash lights currently on, thus why I'm not as concerned).
The first audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm driving the car around the parking lot in which I park my car here at school. It's mostly bumping gravel, but at the time of the recording I was driving very slow. You can hear a squeaking noise.
The second audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm revving the car while parked. Something I've noticed that it didn't used to do is rattle while idling ever so slightly (It's not audible in the recording), but in the recording you are able to hear a slight clunking noise.
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I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
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A few weeks ago, my 09 Sonata V6 starting fluctuating (slightly) abnormally when starting from a cold start. I attributed this to the cold snap (25F mornings down from 40's). To be safe I used a fuel system cleaner at the next fill up.
When the issue didn't immediately go away, I was a little concerned, but extremely busy with work. After 2 weeks of needing to start the car and let it warm up for 10 minutes... things got a lot worse.
RPMs started fluctuating between 2500 and 500. Rev, choke, rev, choke. I got it to the dealer... but it had of course warmed up. Another thread had a similar issue, so I checked for and got an ECM update, reset the adaptive memory, and had the (just due) transmission flush.
No change. The next night, I parked the car in the dealer's lot and let them start it. I suspected the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but wanted the dealership to independently confirm. The head mechanic definitely noticed it, confirmed with me, and replaced the TPS, did a carbon cleanout and oil change. So far, 2 weeks later, no issues.
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My 1998 Honda Civic DX's RPMs are fluctuating during idle. I start the car and it is normal for about two seconds. I am assuming around 800 rpms (I don't have a tachometer). Then it jumps drastically higher, then lower, then higher, etc. Earlier tonight I replaced the throttle body gasket, replaced the spark plug wires, and cleaned the fuel injector cleaners. I took off several things in the process. I think the problem originates from taking apart the throttle body - not the other replaced parts. I have a manual 2-door 1998 Honda Civic DX with a 1.6L engine (D16Y7 engine to be exact).
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Noticed that when you first start the car it makes a very strange noise? Almost as if the motor was running dry for a few seconds and the rpms fluctuate a little... Is that normal? I've only recently owned my camry and was just curious. 2.5L motor.
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I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
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RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low without me doing anything. It doesn't do it all the time, so far its happened 4-5 times in the past 3 days. I first noticed it when driving, I took my foot off the gas to break and it started doing it and once I hit the gas it stopped. It seems to be getting worse because today I put it in the park and when it should have jumped into idle it started and even when I hit the gas it didn't stop. Like I said the RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low in a few seconds regular intervals.
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Truck: Ranger
Year: 1990
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Miles: 83,445
Recently Replaced:Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Position Sensor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wireset
Ignition Control Module
Driver Side Coilpack
After I got done with all of this crap on my Ranger, I noticed that it was driving great! But...today I was on my way to school and BAM! My engine idle started hitting (presumably because I do not have a tachometer) about 3000RPM and lowering down to about 2500RPM and from there, every time I am not in gear it decided to fluctuate between 2500RPM and 3000RPM. Crazy style too.
Now, I got to school, and getting closer to it at a stop light the truck basically died. It was almost at 100'ish RPM. I gave it gas, and BAM. I hear a continuous hissing noise from under my hood. Haven't diagnosed it fully yet because I just got home and its 12AM.
Now, every time I stop at a light or in traffic or whatever it may be, I have to give it gas every other second, like a small push on the pedal, to make sure the truck doesn't die. Also, every time I am out of gear and my RPM's are at an 'idle' state, I get continuous hissing from somewhere, I get no power loss or anything, just really weird idle RPM's and hissing when my foot is not on the gas basically. It is strange. I think It is some sort of Vacuum leak but I am not sure.
To get a better picture of the 'hissing' noise, it is the same hissing as you would hear when letting the air out of a tire. That is the best way I could describe it.
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