Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Inter Cooler Has Tons Of Oil
Feb 3, 2015
My buddy has a 03 Jetta 1.8t and just started doing this has a ton of oil in the intercooler ....
View 4 RepliesMy buddy has a 03 Jetta 1.8t and just started doing this has a ton of oil in the intercooler ....
View 4 RepliesI have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo....
View 1 RepliesI have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo
View 4 RepliesNot sure whats going on here. Could this be normal and I've just never seen it? I dont see oil ANYWHERE else under there. Just in this 1 spot.
View 3 RepliesI just got a 20th and it's chipped from neuspeed. I just got the Audi tt bov.
What else should I get to make that kinda boost healthy? My intercooler pipe keeps popping off when I really get on it.Very new to turbos.
I have been spending a lot of time and money on creating my dream car. I like to go fast so there for I bought a car with a turbo. The thing about turbos is that they also make bigger ones. And so I proceed in upgrading the necessary components to support such an endeavor while simultaneously catching fire to my wallet. No regrets. So far.
Turbo was installed along with the reprogrammed ecu and upgraded fuel injectors come to find out my car is running extremely rich. After trouble shooting and looking back on the parameters the ecu was set we figured out the fuel injectors we installed were too big. Fixed that checked for boost leaks. Car is running much better. Until right before I get home as I'm pulling up to my house I suddenly heard a pop and I've lost boost. Look under the hood and find the vacuum hose has bursted off the solenoid nipple going to the waste gate. Also my turbo pressure blow off valve located on the charge pipe entering the throttle body has apparently been shooting oil as it releases said pressure which has shot out between the crack of my hood onto the top of my hood and my front bumper.
I take off the charge pipes from my intercooler and find out that there is oil, more than usual collected all throughout the charge system coming from the turbo. The is also oil coming from the breather and ventilation system and the breather valve on the waste gate solenoid. Hoping it is not a oil seal leak on my new turbo I then change out my PVC valve and clean up as much oil as I can. I have just fixed the vacuum line and replace the PVC valve and started the car to find there's still oil going through the system.
Could this just between the remaining oil still trapped in the system and that I have found the source of the leak? Or could this truly be a sealant leak in the turbo charger which i'm still wavering on whether or not it is possible considering from what I understand if there was a leak in the seal it would run through oil courts at a time leaving my engine to start and then lock up. Or could there be something internally wrong with my engine such as something wrong with the camshaft? I'm pretty sure my catalytic converter is clogged because all of the carbon building up from it running so rich and probably from all the oil coming out of it possibly. I don't know how worried I really should be.
Like the title says....Is is possible to run a Big Turbo with a Side mount Intercooler? Im a not talking about a 600HP kit. More like a kit that can produce something around 350hp.
View 8 RepliesI've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
I noticed last week when I leave the house in the morning my car was leaving oil striped down my road. Jacked car up Saturday AFTER RUNNING TO STORE found a little oil on bottom of my car but not nowhere near what I was thinking there would be. Cleaned motor fired up found no leaks at all . However this morning after car had sat 20hrs or so I looked under car before I cranked her up clean.
Got it cranked her up and oil was streaming from the oil cooler. Not on the block side but towards the front of car side of cooler. It did this for a few seconds then stopped. I am gonna order new front and rear orings for oil cooler. I am just stumped why it only happens at a cold start and for a few seconds not consistently.
I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
I came across this on the Tube. I asked the one who put the video up about it and he said that Ford has not been able to diagnose the issue yet and that he was very disapointed.
I'm not putting this up as an ''anti Ecoboost'' thread, but more just to see if any of you Ecoboost owners out there have seen or heard of this issue?
F150 Ecoboost Reviews You Must See this to Believe it - YouTube....
I bought a 2006 Prius with a diagnosed bad battery and tons of warning lights lit on the dash. Toyota had diagnosed a bad hybrid batt and ECU. (I have not replaced the ECU). The car was driving and running fine otherwise.
View 12 Replies2009 ES350. Couple of months ago I have driving down the high way and a ton of light popped up on the dash. (CEL tracking VSC) After another 50 miles it developed a miss. Next morning the miss went away and it but all the lights were still on. Auto zone said misfire so I figured I need to change plugs(65k on the motor) well 100 miles into coming home the mis fire comes back. and we make it home. Next day same thing.....
I change the plugs.... disconnect the computer and it was good for a couple hundred miles and BAM!! it starts all over. CEL on... I noticed if I stay city driving it doesn't get to the miss fire point. but if I do any kind of highway driving it'll eventually develop a miss.
I check it again and it showed 2 and 4 mis fire, I picked up 3 coils put them all on the front. It ran good for 350 miles and bam here it is again. Last Sunday I started up the car and it just started misfiring at idle. well I went to check it at autozone coz it was really bad. and it had 4 cylinders misfiring total.
Well in the mean time getting it checked the light were on it wouldn't start. so I just bought a battery. (it had been having battery issues over the last couple months) I don't want wifey to be stranded somewhere with the baby.
I'm new to these news lexus's.. Ive had 2 Is 300's and my daughter has a gs 300. Do I need to use a specific spark plug for the 350? Would the dying battery contribute to this?
I did find the air box was not closed properly by the oil change company wifey uses. so I thought that was an issue but it cam one at the 350 mile mark. What else to try..
04 F-250, blowing tons of smoke. I've replaced the ICP sensor, crankcase breather hose (it was broken at the clip), cleaned the turbo, and EGR valve. Any other ways before I take it to a shop to get bent?
View 1 RepliesMy ac seems to get cooler at higher rpms. I looked online and it appears to be the orifice tube...
View 3 RepliesOn way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
View 14 RepliesIt is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
I've just (a couple of weeks ago) purchased an 03 Santa Fe. I noticed some trans fluid on my driveway a week later, and not a small amount. I took the lower cover off of the engine, and the leak is coming from the transmission oil cooler area. I had hopes that it would be something fairly straightforward to repair, so I got a replacement oil cooler and some spare hose, just in case it was just a hose. After getting the front bumper off, I found that the bottom of the oil cooler is clean and dry-- not the issue. It looks as though the leak is coming from what they're calling the Trans oil cooler "tube assembly", as illustrated on the Hyundai Parts Department trans cooler page as item number 5, part number 2547126011. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the entire radiator to get to this thing to replace it? It appears to be fixed in place, but I can't see any hardware to remove it.
View 10 RepliesI have an 03 f150 supercrew that had a 4.6L. I am installing a 3.9 Cummins diesel. I will have a separately mounted transmission cooler. I'm using the stock radiator as these engines run cool. It has a transmission cooler built into it. If i just leave the fitting loose, will it cause me any problems. It is a plastic can on each end and i suppose it to have contact with the radiator passages.
View 7 RepliesMy coolant bottle, as well as my entire engine compartment, is full of oil. The truck won't run. It will make ICP when I first crank it but then it goes away. I have the orings and gaskets to do the oil cooler, it is there any chance there's something else that caused this? Anyway to diagnose the oil cooler before I disassemble?
View 4 Replies