Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Inconsistent Battery Drain
Mar 26, 2016
In the past week, my car battery has died twice (Sunday morning after sitting for 45min and Friday night after sitting for all day). The car (2003 Jetta) immediately came back to life once the jumper cables were attached to another car. I've had the battery and alternator checked twice both with good results. I've checked for a drain on the battery while the car is off, and I'm getting 20mA. So everything seems to be fine. Why the battery could have died twice? Is it possible that something is turning on at random and sucking the power out of the battery?
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I narrowed my battery drain to the box on top of the battery. When I disconnect all three fuses and the 4th wire from inside the box my draw goes to 0 but when I connect any of those 4 it will go back up. Connecting all of them will not increase the draw any more but it seems all of them are connected in some way?
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. Over 8 Hrs the battery goes from 12 to 10V and the start is real sluggish. I'm going to test the load on the battery when it is just sitting there to see if there is a short somewhere. I'm wondering what the load should be from the clock and radio which draw power even when off.
It is 4+ years old so it might be just time for a new battery..... Alternator is working....14V on the battery when the engine is running...... so there is charge form the alternator.....
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I have an 03 vibe. when the temperature get cold around 18 degrees or colder, what would cause the daytime running lights to com on by their self and drain the battery.
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Was driving just a few hundred feet up the road to local mini mart. On the way home after pulling out of the shop, my battery light flickered once and twice before staying on. I circled around the block to see if it would go away, but it was still on when I parked in my driveway. I noticed a ticking noise in the engine bay, but decided to turn it off.
About 10 minutes later, I turned the car back on. Battery light still on, noise still evident in the bay. I popped the hood and it's coming by the serpentine belt. That seemed to be running fine over there and couldn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary. I went in the car to rev up the engine a bit and turn on my lights, and that's when the symptoms got weirder. My RPMs jumped to about 1,000 and stayed there (even when I let on the gas a bit); my blowers would work (but not the screen showing the temp); CD player turned off; and I got a cluster full of lights on my dash. The car would idol rough when turning lights on and off.
It eventually shut off, and now there is no crank or nothing. All lights still work, alarm works, but no turn over or clicking. I'm going to try and get it jumped when able to, but I'm not sure what the problem could be. I can't find the exact paperwork, but I had the alternator replaced at around 85,000 miles.
Car Specs:
2003 GTI VR6 24V
110,000 miles
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2004 Jetta 1.8T
Looking for the drain plug and I can't find it for the life of me..
There is a hex bolt on a black plate that is seemingly the lowest part of the whole front-underneath, but this isn't the oil, is it? It does have a washer, that hex bolt.
It's in front of the axle, right?
Which direction does it face?
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So i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
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Fiancee's 04.5 GLI is leaking from the sunroof drain into the front passenger footwell.
The Tubes are clear, but the front passenger drain is leaking from the upper portion of the tube. I pour water down the drain and 90-95% comes out the door nipple. The other 5-10% comes down the Pillar, and then out the bottom of the glove box.
I know its coming out of the top of the drain, not the nipple at the door because I can visually see water drops inside of the pillar.
What if I make a small plug to close off the 1 corner of the drain? I understand the correct solution is to pull the headliner and reconnect it.
BUT with the holidays and chaos of this week, would a temporary solution be to close off the 1 hole? I'd do a small delrin or aluminum plug with an oring on a lathe real quic so its a water proof seal
OR if I plug it, will the water level rise too fast inside the sunroof and pour into the car? I don't know.I think the plug would be a safe solution.....
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On my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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Carefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
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My 2005 kia sorento has a battery drain somewhere, AAA checked alt and battery and said it is fine. I heard there could be a spring stuck in the starter?
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I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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I have a 96 grand am that will turn on fine at first but after it warms up, it will not start and just keeps trying to turn over. I've also tested the battery with a light test and there is a constant drain on the battery, it will be completely dead overnight and when I charge my battery after starting it once, it will fully charge in about 30 minutes from red so I'm wondering if it's just not holding a charge. I'm not sure if it won't start when it's warm or if the battery just doesn't have a charge??? I took the car to autozone and the alternator passed all tests and the battery is new, the starter is 8 months old. Also the brake light stays on.
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I have a parasitic drain on my battery. 4.5 amps to be exact. I've tracked it down to the CTSY fuse or Fuse 3 in the fuse block. When I pull the fuse it drops to 40 mA which is pretty normal.
What is the most likely cause of this drain since my lights seems to be working and shut off when the doors are shut? I've almost got the dash ripped apart to get at the wiring harness but hopefully I can find it before taking the whole dash out.
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