I was driving earlier and some dickhead wouldn't stop tailgating me. I brake checked him and he wouldn't back off so I got pissed and floored it. Didn't watch my rpms and I felt it give like I hit a rev limiter maybe? I'm hoping that's what it was, it was like an instant loss of power for a brief second. Just was curious that I didn't brake anything. Driving a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. Manual.
View 13 RepliesI have a 24v GLI with the O2M 6-speed trans. This morning while leaving for work I accidently let the clutch out while in gear and my e-brake still on. Heard a really loud bang and the engine didn't stall out (which it should have). Now I have no engagement in any gear and there is a very loud clicking that changes with RPMs. Did I blow the CV joint, or is this something much worse (blown diff, destroyed clutch, etc.)??? I'm border-line freaking out!
View 9 RepliesCar in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
View 1 RepliesI noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
I have a 03 jetta 1.8t and for as long as i can remember my rpms would always fluctuate whenever ever i was idling and then there would be sometimes where i would be accelerating and i would have no power and then all of a sudden it would kick in kinda jerky like. About a week ago tho for some reason my car would just all of a sudden die when i would come to a complete stop and it did it about 5 times that day but when it died it would start right back up fine. I've been having this problem for quit awhile.
I have gotten told maybe coilpacks, n75 valve, o2 sensor, MAF i ended up buying a can of sensor cleaner and cleaned out sensor but that doesn't look like it did the trick. i have also noticed when i drive her pretty hard sometimes the rpms will fluctuate a lot more frequently than normal there also times where when ever i start in 1st gear it doesn't feel like i have all the power have than usual and I've noticed it only feel like that in 1st and second gear sometimes.
Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
View 2 Replies2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
A few days ago I changed the transmission fluid in my 03 jetta with an 02J. After this it felt nice for a day or two, but then it became very hard, and sometimes impossible to select 3rd and 5th gear. The other gears feel a little funny as well, but they are working fine. I used OEM VW/Audi fluid from German auto parts, and when I used the same stuff in my old GTI, it was great. Maybe a motor/trans mount got loose and its messing with the shifter cables? I really don't know what it can be, but it is very frustrating as this is my daily driver, and I am starting college on Tuesday, so I just need my car to work properly without a lot of downtime at this point.
View 4 Replies2003, Jetta 1.8t, 5 speed, 76,500 miles ... The other day I was driving and all of a sudden I had a hesitation in 3rd gear. I have relized since that this hesitation occurs in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, but not 1st or 2nd. I am going to change the spark plugs tomorrow in hope to fix this problem. The hesitation occurs whenever you get into the gas and begin to accelerate(typically around 3000RPM and up). There are no dash lights on at all and the cars is running fine besides the hesitation.
View 2 RepliesI've had my 03 VR6 6-speed for 12 years. It's been a second car for the last 5 or so, but regularly used. Friday morning the car got stuck in 3rd gear. The stick will only move from neutral position and down towards 4th gear. I've inspected the short shifter under the hood and the bushings under the shift boot. I did not find anything that diesel geek (the short shifter company) had me check for.
I brought the car into a local shop I have never used before (my usual shop closed), and today they called me saying its a transmission issue. I have not given them permission to open anything up. I am going to take the car home for now.
I have had to repair a broken 1-2 gear fork before. And at that time I had the 3-4 gear for replaced as well.
I should also mention, I similar issues on a quick drive i took the car on the night before. I thought it was just me acclimating to the shifter/lower power of the car as I hadn't driven it for a while. The point is, it drove fine afterwards and it drove fine for a 40 minute city drive to work the next morning.
Just bought this car yesterday. test drive went fine with no issues. Started driving it home and the check engine light came on ( no big deal i thought car runs great). I go to advance auto and their scanner won't hook up to it. So i start looking at the fuses and everything was good except it was missing the the number 7 fuse ( reverse lights/speedometer sensor), so i replaced the fuse. i get home and i decide to take it down the road one more time and it all went down hill quick. EPC light came on, the car wont shift out of first gear (automatic). so i let it sit over night with the number 7 fuse out and the battery disconnected. CEL never disappeared this morning and its do the same thing. It looks like the MAF was just replaced and the brake light switch looks like the newer green version. Im going to replace the brake light switch this afternoon and i already cleaned the MAF. Another thing that i noticed that is very strange is now the Foot symbol by the shifter has gone out. The one on the dash still is working properly but the one at the shifter does not light up at all now.
View 1 RepliesSo that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
Me and my buddy that has a 2012 GLI where playing with our cars and i noticed that he is at 4,000rpms in second gear @40mph, while my car (2010GTI) was at 4600rpms....Both of us have 6 speed manuals.. What could cause this other than gearing? I don't think the gearing is different since to my knowledge both cars and trannys are the same...or am i wrong?
View 17 Replies I have been noticing that my GTI seems jerky (head bobbling) at low CONSTANT speeds on the highway during my morning commute. For example if I leave it in first and get the speed constant at 10-15km at 1,000 - 1,500 rpms I feel the car to be jerky. Even at low speed/rpm gear changes (1'st - 2nd). Anything past 2,000k RPM is fine though.
Is this normal? Or should I bring this up with my dealer and have them take a look at it. It's just annoying because I don't notice this in the city, just only in bumper to bumper highway driving at a constant low speed in 1st/2nd.
So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
View 20 RepliesWhat RPMs do you see in 6th gear, say at 60mph or 80mph? Consumer Reports claims the RPM at 60mph is 3020!
So I went to vw.com to look at the gear ratios for a reality check. The site lists two final gear ratios for the manual. "Final I" is 3.94 and "Final II" is 3.09. When do you get one versus the other? With a final gear ration of 3.09, I get roughly 2400RPM at 60mph. But with a ratio of 3.94, I indeed get about 3000RPM at 60mph or 4100RPM at 80mph!!! That's absolutely insane.
Weird noise - searched .. couldnt find anything mainly because its kinda hard to describe it .. While in 1st and 2nd gear at low rpms while barely giving it any gas there is this "ticking" noise coming from under the hood .. it almost sounds like .. lets put it this way .. it sounds like a wire coat hanger .. tapping an aluminum can .. how about that .. I was told it is my flywheel bolts backing out and was a problem around 65-75k .. and I am at 70k at the moment... Should I just bite the bullet and get a new flywheel and if so ..[IMG] [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesI got a fuel cut tonight in 3rd gear at 6500rpms. First time, 30 degrees outside. Carbonio the only other mod. Looks like I need a HPFP next.
View 24 RepliesBackground facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
View 16 Replies