Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 GTI VR6 Misfire When Warmed Up
Apr 18, 2015
I have an '03 gti vr6 with a miss fire problem. Once it's warmed up is when I notice the problem. Just changed all the spark plugs and now I'm lost.
View 21 RepliesI have an '03 gti vr6 with a miss fire problem. Once it's warmed up is when I notice the problem. Just changed all the spark plugs and now I'm lost.
View 21 RepliesI just recently bought a 03 Jetta and it doesn't shift until it is warmed up, once warmed up it runs great. I was told it needed a transmission change but when taking it to Aamco they said it needed a valve body. I read that it could be the solenoids that are causing the issue. Should I replace the whole valve body or just the solenoids? What is the main components in the valve body?
View 2 RepliesSo I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
View 1 RepliesMy brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..
View 1 RepliesIs this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
I have a 1993 dodge ram 15 passenger van. When it is cold, it runs fine, but after it warms up it starts to miss on the 6th cylinder. We have checked the plug and wires. Did not get anywhere. We replaced the injector. No dice.
View 8 RepliesGetting misfires on cylinder 1 and 5 in my 2001 Jetta GLX. Replaced coil pack. Installed a different/used cam position sensor.
Swapped injector 1 and 5 with 2 and 6. Cleaned MAF and throttle body and did adaptation. Checked resistance of plug wires and swapped plug positions.
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View 6 RepliesI'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
View 2 RepliesAlright Ive had a misfire on cylinder 1 for far too long. I've replaced all ignition coils and plugs with oem parts. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with oem. As well as 2 injectors. Before I would misfire under load, now I misfire at idle..wiring looks good and not cracked from what I can see. Only codes I reciece are random multiple misfire, misfire cylinder 1. And diverter valve mis function because of my BOV. So what do I do now vortex?
View 1 Replies I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
I just recently picked up a 2000 Jetta VR6. its 173k miles on it and has few issues with it.
The Background. The car had a check engine light on and when i bought it I was told it was just an o2 sensor and i trusted him cuz i knew the guy (sorta). Bad move on my part, but not terrible. After I bought the car, i took it to autozone to just get the codes and be sure. It came up with a P1116 - o2 sensor heater circuit open on bank 1 (expected), and I also got a P0302 - misfire cylinder 2 (dafuq?). The misfire surprised me cuz it did not feel like it was misfiring whatsoever and it did not have flashing CEL.
After driving the car for a few days, I have noticed a few things that make me believe that it is either a faulty injector or seal.
1. The misfire, but not significant misfire. The only time I can tell any difference on how the car performs is when its at idle, it tends to not idle completely steady and vibrates a little more than what an engine should. Other than that, the car pulls great and not any issues.
2. The smell of gasoline is prevalent. It takes about 30 seconds before it just plain out reeks. And if you pop the hood and stick your nose right next to cylinder 2, you probably get high off the fumes (if that's possible). I am sure its coming from somewhere under the plenum because it was leaking some type of liquid that I had initially thought was just oil but I really think its gasoline.
I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV GLS. I got a code P0302 for misfire on cylinder 2. I am pretty sure it's the Ignition coil. I live in Canada and my autoparts store only has BWD brand. I have read this is a crappy brand.
View 1 Replies2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
View 2 RepliesI have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
View 7 RepliesSo recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.