My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
View 1 RepliesI have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
Starting a few days ago both of my key FOBs stopped locking the car. They both can still unlock the car and open the trunk, but they cannot lock the car. However the doors can still be locked from the button inside the door. From that I know the locking mechanisms aren't broken so it must be something electronic. What could be causing this?
View 1 RepliesI finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
View 1 RepliesI have the same problem as in the youtube video. It is my 2011 Sonata SE with smart key. I have 100k Miles and checked with the dealership and they said no recalls on my car.
[URL] ....
Wondering what the problem is? Is it just the Actuator or Lock and Actuator Latch Assembly both?
2013 Black SEL 3.6, 35k mi
Noticed a couple times recently when I went back to my car that the door was unlocked as if I forgot to lock.
Played with it a little more today and realized when I'm pressing on the handle or the fob to lock the doors that 3/4 doors are locking - but not the driver's. Give it a couple tries with unlocking and locking and eventually I can get all 4 to lock. All will unlock just fine when I grab the handle.
I re-set the convenience features to factory settings hoping that would work but no dice. Is there a simple solution? Would rather not disassemble the door to blindly test the locking module.
When I open the driver's door, the car does not register that the door is open: the dome light and other interior lights don't come on, the red alert light inside the door itself doesn't come on, and sometimes my alarm will go off when I start the car because it does not know that the door has been activated properly. When the passenger door is open, all the lights function properly. I'm thinking this is a fuse? Hopefully a simple fix?
View 12 RepliesSo last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
View 2 RepliesLike the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
View 1 RepliesI have experienced a problem with the driver's side door locking and not opening. It just happened to me with my 2008 LS460 so I can't get in or out of the car from the driver's side.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and for the last year, I've had a door lock issue. My driver's side door lock will not lock the door. It sometimes engages it slightly so I don't think it is electrical. It happened after I accidentally left the windows cracked during summer and there was a huge t-storm from which some rain water got on the door lock mechanism. Could it be the door lock actuator or perhaps a spring got loose?
View 6 RepliesIts an electrical issue.
I have a couple issues that have been bothering me lately. The drivers door lock is intermittent to lock when trying to lock it with the remote or the auto locking when going a certain speed. To get it to lock, I either have to unlock the entire car with the door switch then it will lock with the switch, or unlocking the car with the remote before hitting the lock button. It will also relock itself even if I opened the door and is sitting in the seat, just like if you unlock it and don't open the door it relocks.
My car alarm horn is not working, either with the alarm going off, in panic mode, or when hitting the lock button twice.
I also am having issues with the drivers side window, the only way it goes down is if you press the button all the way down to automatically go all the way down. If I try to go down without going all the way, when I press the button it goes up.
And last but not least, after replacing a wheel bearing last night when I got home, the interior light wouldn't work with the door until I locked it and unlocked it with the key but afterwards it worked again
The car is a 2000 1.8t with 221,000 miles auto no modifications except euroswitch.
When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
View 2 RepliesMy drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
View 6 RepliesMy driver side door is not locking with the smart key or by hitting the button on the handle I can't seem to figure it out...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 base toyota prius. You can lock all the car doors from the drivers side or from the passenger's side. I did that today and left then had to get something from my car about 15minutes later. When I pushed the lock to open the other 3 locks for the other 3 doors they won't open. Only the driver;s side will open. When I pushed the lock to open/close all the car doors on the passengers side only the driver's side would open/close. I thought maybe I hit the child safety lock so I pushed it but it still wouldn't open the other doors even though all the windows roll up and down from the drivers side and from the actual doors they are on. What is wrong with my locks? Did I accidentally push teething and how can I get it fixed??!!
View 2 RepliesI have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
I had the Steering Column Module and the CCM done at the dealer last week. That being said would that have anything to do with the fact that I can't arm my antil theft system? All the door lock except for the rear drivers side door. When I hit the lock button on the remote I don't get any sort of audible signal. The horn doesn't beep and the lights don't flash. When i use the remote to unlock the doors, the lights do flash to signal that the doors are unlocked.
View 3 Replies2008 Camry: The remote will lock all doors but the driver's side;BUT; the remote will unlock all 4 doors.
View 9 RepliesI can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?