I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
View 3 Replies99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
Golf 2.0 ... Finding the location of the AC Clutch/Compressor relay location. On the TDI its behind the the dash and I looked on mine and it doesn't seem to be the same. I've seen a thread where some said it was under the battery? Where it is and what number will be stamped on it. Another thread said it should be behind the dash and number 385 or 358, I looked and I don't have those numbers back there.
View 2 RepliesI have an issue with my 2003 golf 2.0 ac I've done everything that I cloud thing of to check but I still have this issue so here it is. The air coming out of the vents is warm, compressor Clush turn on but doesn't kick off. I hook up ac gauges and it reads 70 on low side and 155 on high side with an ambient temperature of 80. The system has freon, I check fans and they are on when compressor kicks in all relays and fuses are fine.
View 8 RepliesI found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
View 4 RepliesThe A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
View 3 RepliesI've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
View 8 RepliesWithin the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
View 9 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
View 6 RepliesI just finished installing a new clutch kit on my 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 1.8 and I have absolutely no pressure on the clutch pedal, I am pretty sure I installed everything correctly. How do you bleed the clutch lines, how do you know if the slave cylinder is bad. When i push the clutch pedal it just goes to the floor with absolutely no return.
View 4 Replies2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
View 4 RepliesSo last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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