Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 - Random Electrical System Reset / Power Failure
Jan 18, 2010
2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
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I am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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So a co-worker needed a jump after leaving her lights on. Her car was parked on a busy road and I had to pull up next to her in the opposing traffic lane to be able to reach her battery. In my haste I put the clamps on the wrong battery terminals on MY car (hers were correctly attached). When I got in my car to start it I could see the wires were smoking and immediately got out and disconnected the cables. We ultimately needed to purchase new cables and were able to start the car. The problem is now her radio doesn't work and when she brought it to the dealer they said there is some kind of electrical system failure?!?! Is that possible? Her car works perfectly fine, except for the radio now so not sure what happened.
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I think I blew a power steering hose. I lost all my fluid and lost power steering. I'm at work. Is it safe to drive 3 miles home with no fluid?
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I have been realizing that random every so often miles or months (varies completely) that my average fuel consumption resets itself and starts retaking brand new information and has discarded the old. Is this normal?
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I have a 2003 1.8t Jetta and I noticed my heater core is going bad (Common issue) so I smell G12 when I turn on my heat. But randomly and out of no where my car will start to over heat just a little. Never goes into the red though. Farthest it has ever been was about to the second mark past 190. It goes back down eventually and when I pop my hood it bubbles in the reserve a little and it does not do it again for about a few weeks or so. Could this be because of the heater core or might be a thermostat or bad coolant temp sensor?
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I have been having electrical issues with my 2001 manual transmission Jetta. At times I turn the car off, remove the key and the radio stays on, trip mileage and clock will reset. I also had where I was at a stopped at a traffic light and the ABS, engine light, and another light (not sure which one, it was too fast) flashed on for half a second. What should be looked at first and possible changed?
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I know about the need for resetting the power windows after a battery reset. I have one window, the rear passenger side door, that does not work from the master switch. It does work at the door itself, but the green LED is NOT illuminated, or blinking. When I try to roll the window down on the first press, there is no response, but the LED illuminates solid. At the second press, the window works. When I attempt the reset procedure on the window (press and hold the one touch down after the window closes, then repeat the procedure going up. However, when I do this, the instructions say that the light will be blinking, and you should hold it until it is solid. Mine is solid when I am holding the switch, then after about 10 seconds, the light goes out and does not illuminate again.
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I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
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I just replaced my Wiper motor last week and noticed something strange. For the last year or so when I turn on the key to start the truck, once in a while my radio, gauges, and other electricals such as windows wouldn't work for a bit, anywhere from a couple seconds to maybe as much as a couple minutes. Since my wiper motor was on the fritz, I pulled the fuse and the radio,gauges,ect. wouldn't work until the WTS light went out, then everything worked just fine, even after I started the truck and the glow plugs come back on.Since I replaced the motor everything works as soon as i turn the key. Coincidence? Or could one of the internal relays on the motor being stuck cause that?
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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Just got home after a harrowing drive in the dark without dashboard lights, no climate control or turn signals or cruise control. Both the turn signals on the dash remain constantly on after the engine was turned off. Wondering if it might be the fuses but will look at first light. In the meantime...
what might have caused this all of a sudden?
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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I keep throwing a P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System error. My previous pump was seized so I replaced it, and broke a few of the chintzy air hoses in the process. Now, with new pump installed and new air hoses connected, I can go about 5 days before the code comes back on.
So to recap, I have:
Replaced the air pump
Verified the new air pump functions, yepReplaced the air hoses
Verified connection of air hoses at all junctions
Checked the Secondary Air Relay for function
I have not yet checked the solenoid - unsure how to do so.
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So, I seem to have horrible luck with valets. One curbed my wheel a couple weeks ago. The TPMS light came on and all tires were equally underinflated... I thought it was due to a recent cold snap. Well, once I got around to inflating, I noticed the curbed wheel and the sidewall bulging tire. Nonetheless, i tried to reset my TPMS light and there is no button in the glove box. I have a thing that should house a button, but there is nothing behind it. Is this usual?
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As in the title, mine went this weekend. Searching shows other VW models have had issues with wiring connectors leading to AFS failure. Is this still a problem for VW (many of the threads on Vortex about this go back 5 years or so), and specifically the Golf R?
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So i hit a pretty nasty manhole on the road which hit my driver side lower control arm and caused my passenger seat and curtain airbag to deploy. no damage anywhere else. I got the airbags replaced (seat is being reupholstered atm) so i was wondering is it possible to reset the log or do i have to get a new sensor.
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