Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Fuse Number 32 Keeps Blowing Immediately After Replacing
Jul 19, 2016
2003 Jetta TDI GLI , fuse number 32 (30 amp fuse) keeps blowing immediately after I replace it. I can't start my car because of it. I do have a shorting head light and the glow plug indicator flashes with the check engine light on. This doesn't happen all the time. When it does happen, sometimes the accelerator will not work and instead of idling at ~900 rpm it idles at ~1100 rpm. I usually just restart my car and then it works again. Not sure how these issues are related but I can't start my car because of this blowing fuse.
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I have a 2003 GTi vr6. just replaced the alternator. now a number 1 on my dash is showing. What that means?
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My sis has a 09 corolla le and was fine until 4months back. Her STOP fuse #9 would blow. She took it in to toyota, they replace her fuse for her and let her go.. A month later it happen she took it back and they replace it again, so about a week later it happen. Now the Toyota guy tries to check it and but cant find out the problem and tells her that she needs to go see an electrician... he replace for her and gave her extras for the long run... recently until now it was running fine, then it happen again, the #9 fuse blew up yesterday and today!... Her brake lights won't come on when she steps on it and it wont go into drive from park unless she press on that bypass switch.. I know that there could be a shortage somewhere..
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02 JettaVr6 auto tranny- car was running perfect, no CEL. Now all of a sudden the fuse keeps blowing out- what exactly is running off this fuse?
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I've went onto TIS and received some info in regards to the electrical components of 2002 sc430.
Fuse 19 on Passenger Box: Interior light, personal lights, vanity lights, foot lights, ignition switch light, trunk light, antenna, garage door opener system audio system.
Each time I install a new fuse, it immediately pops. Wondering how to diagnose root cause. Often it seems that wires ran through door grommet can become exposed....I have done no modifications to the vehicle. Not sure if there is a particular area I should start looking for exposed wires, I have a feeling it is going to be a long process with my skill level to find the short.
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First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
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99 Jetta VR6... 190k
So the heat doesn't really work on my car- and its getting cold outside.
I read the DIY on fixing the resistor pack, but there is a lot of hooptiness to my ride, (not sure if that's the issue).
All the fan control speeds work, but the most I ever get is vaguely warm air- it never gets fully hot.
The temperature gauge does not work most of the time- it does occasionally (but randomly) work as expected.
The defrost doesn't work either due to an issue with the AC (it keeps blowing the fuse for the AC compressor- like, right away)
There's a multitude of issues happening here I know, but need to narrow down the suspects for the heat, that would be very useful.
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I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
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Had a question about where the battery fuse is located and it's number. I just put a brand new alternator on.my truck. Turns out I might not have needed one, switched the battery with the new alternator on and the truck still went dead after it ran for about 10-12 seconds. So some told me it may be the battery fuse but I don't know which fuse it could be.
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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My turbo started to have oil on the top of it. I don't know where it's coming from at all, it started to blow blue smoke but not all the time. You can also smell the oil burning off.. someone said maybe the pcv system but not sure. Still new to the vw world only owned the car for about 4 months. Trying to add pics but it's not working.. Will keep trying
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FUSE 38 Keeps blowing...it controls the fans and dealer is not sure why. Coolant fan control (FC) control Module.....
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Why the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
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I am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
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My R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
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I have a 2015 GTI that I bought new in late July. Recently both 12V outlets in the cabin stopped working. Around this same time I noticed squirrels had gotten under my hood and done a little chewing. I checked the fuses and couldn't find one that was blown. So I took it to the dealership for service, figuring the squirrels had chewed some wires.
However, the dealership said it *was* a blown fuse and did an electronic diagnostic for which I was charged $100 and they said it found nothing wrong.
I got the car back a week ago. The 12V outlets worked for a week. Then today I realized they were not working again.
I only use the outlets for my cell and my GPS. It's not like I'm hooking a generator or space heater up to it.
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Preliminary information: the vehicle is a 2003 jetta (gli), My drivers door ajar switch is broken and the ccm recognizes it as closed at all times (open circuit), also I was hit in the rear at about 40mph by an f-250 a week after I bought the car and I repaired the damage myself (I am not a body tech). I replaced all electrical components in the trunk as they were all destroyed as well as the trunk lid which has never quite closed the same.
.Key Fob serves no function, (replaced the battery as troubleshooting.)
.If I lock the doors VIA drivers door, passenger door or by key in door, the doors will lock and then immediately unlock.
.It seems to think a door is open even though they are all closed and the overhead lights don't come on like they would if a door was open.
.The door ajar light was on when it first started and the light burnt out after less than an hour in (coincidence? or short? I don't know what circuit to start on).
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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Previously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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