I own a 2003 Jetta that is standard. I was driving to school today and the engine just cut off. It was acting as if I had stalled out but it was in neutral and the clutch was all the way down. I've also had problems with my car not wanting to start. If I press on the gas once or twice that usually fixes that problem.
View 5 RepliesSo, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.
Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.
Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.
[URL] ....
I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
I've got a 2003 Volvo S60 with close to 121,000 miles on it.
Last winter, my Engine cut out on me as I was taking a sharp right onto my home street. At first, I thought I hit an icy patch and my car had skidded, but then I realized the engine was off, but all the lights on my dashboard were on (including all the warning/alert lights). I put the car in park, turned my key into the off position, then tried to start it up. It immediately started. Other factors: There was snow and I had just recently exited the highway.
Everything seemed to be going pretty well until this winter (in Connecticut) when my car cut out on me again. Just like before, I assumed I had hit an icy patch as the car seemed sluggish and unresponsive (and it had just snowed). Again, it happened as I was taking a right turn, and it's happened about three times since.
Today was the first time it happened as I was making a left turn. Luckily, I was the last car in the turning lane, and I managed to get my car more or less close to the shoulder and put my hazard lights on (as traffic was now approaching), and Nik Nak rebooted just as before.
I used to think the cold/snow had something to do with it, but it was 50 degrees today. Also, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the wheel may have been turned as far as it could go. I honestly can't remember if that was the case the other times it cut out. I plan on experimenting in a parking lot tomorrow to see if turning the wheel all the way is causing it.
What might be causing it? (And besides not turning the steering wheel all the way, how this problem may be fixed?)
I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8 5Speed. With issues.
The problem that I first had (and have always had since): While driving under 30mph but at random times, my ASR / ESP light and engine light will come on and my car will lurch and lose power (I can't go above 20mp at that point this is the limp mode that traction control puts you in I think). I have to pull over and restart my car. And then the ASR / ESP light is gone and the engine light stays on for a day or so. After restarting my car everything seems to function fine.
My car would also chug a bit if I didn't let it warm up in the morning it acted as though it would die. After sitting for a minute it would be fine.
My mechanic initially thought there might be an air flow issue. He found a hose that was cracked at the end but said I didn't really need to replace it. He taped it up and used a clamp to keep in place. I have no (ok little) doubt that it is air tight.
When the problem continued he thought it might be my MAF sensor. He had a used one and replaced mine with it. It seemed to work, I didn't have the problem again for some time. But it eventually came back.
Also, I started to find that when I came to a stop light my car would idle roughly. If I put the car in park it was perfectly fine. Later, I had an even more serious problem. My car needed to warm up for about 10 minutes before it would shift out first. After plenty of internet searches on sites like this, everything pointed to the N92 solenoid. I purchased all 9 solenoids online and had someone replace them. That seems to have fixed my shifting out of first problem.
I still had the ASR / ESP issue though. So I bought a new MAF and replaced that myself (very easy). I was positive that would be then end of my problems. But nope no change.
Recently I also find that if I slow down quickly, sometimes my car just strait up dies. After restarting all is well.
So if this isn't a MAF issue, what are the other likely culprits? Vacuum leak somewhere? How much would you expect to pay to have that diagnosed (I think they have machines that can test everything and locate points of failure)? Air-flow meter? Transmission control unit? I have heard that they are relatively cheap to replace Engine control unit?
Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
I have a 03 GTI VR6, with the P1142 ...
View 1 RepliesI have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
I've got a 2003 Jetta with the 20v 1.8t, today I was driving along and when I slowed down coming into town, my car started making this sound that I can only describe as sounding like a tractor. It sounds like something is rattling under the valve cover.
Here's a video with the sound : [URL] ....
Recently purchased 2003 golf gti 1.8t that had a leak on left side of engine i think it was engine coolant hose flange it Didn't leak much and coolant stayed at 190. I took the car to a mechanic and he replaced the leaking hose but now the car rises past 190 at idle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta 2.0L. I've noticed for the last few days that my engine temperature has been getting pretty high. We're going through a pretty intense heat wave where I live and that surely part of the problem but I've also noticed that two large fans at front of my car don't start up right away when I start the car. Is it supposed to be this way? Do they only kick in when the engine reaches a certain temperature?
View 3 RepliesI have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
View 16 RepliesI have an 03 GTI, and recently the engine has been very loud at speeds over 25mph. There isn't any rattling, ticking or chugging sounds. It just sounds like my rpm is at 7000, when it's actually 2000.
I'll try to upload a video tonight of driving around.
The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
View 3 RepliesJust like the title says i have been hearing this ringing noise in my 2003 gti vr6 and its driving me nuts. Neither my mechanic or I could find this source of this noise with the stethoscope. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine but strangely only happens when I LITERALLY shake the car or when its idling and revving. The A/C isn't working either if that means anything. First time owner of a VW by the way.
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
View 3 RepliesIgnition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
View 3 Replies