Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Door Switch Does Not Open The Fuel Door
Nov 25, 2015
So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
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At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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So I noticed my door wouldn't open from the outside when my friend was trying to get in the backseat. It opened from the inside, and like an idiot I turned the child safety lock. So now the door will not open from the inside or the outside.
Is there any possible way I can get to the cable to get the door open from the interior or exterior?? Can I take the door panel off without the door being open?? It's a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t...
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Also...doom lighting does not turn on with driver door open...all other doors, yes. Lastly, cannot reset trip meter.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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It was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
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I have a 2013 VW Golf 7 and since this winter it is the second time I can't get the fuel filler cap door to open at the gas station.
First time I blame it on the freeze, yesterday on 8 degrees was not the case so there is a problem.
Does the lock system of the fuel door is different in G7 than in previous models?
How can I reach from inside the trunk to manual release the lock and check the motor is working?
As it worked until now and suddenly makes problem, could be a wire problem or actually the motor/actuator getting rusty or something?
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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So after pulling her apart again to clean up the bay, she finally decided she didnt want to start:
- Ignition works
- Cranks for days
- Fuses look good
I noticed my fuel prime doesn't go on when I open the door and the secondary water pump isnt on after I turn the key off. I have an inline fuel pump, so wouldnt that supply fuel if the in-tank one was dead?
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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I hit a pillar with the driver side door and it bent a bit and now the open door alarm stays on while I drive and its even worse when the lights are turned on, how do I disconnect the door open alarm?
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when unlocking the car, half of the time the passenger front and back door do not open from the outside even though the little door opening/closing pin has jumped up into the open position. then i need to give the door a good push near the lock , i can hear a little click and then the door opens.
how to fix this?
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My door open light is on all the time. Doors are closed and no interior lights on.
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